Friday, December 25, 2009

New Puppy Education Info Section/Feeding

EDUCATION INFO SECTION:
Bringing your new friend home tips
Food and Feedings:
Your puppy will be started on Victor. This a purple bag.    You can see on the website who will carry it close to you. A very great high quality dog food made in Fort Worth with no recalls ever. Your baby will come home with some so if you decide not to use you can mix and switch them to something else.  We also recommend are Blue Buffalo, Honest Kitchen, or any holistic human grade food. You puppy should be fed 2-3 times per day following the feeding instructions on the bag.

DOG-PROOF YOUR HOME
Whether your new friend is a puppy or adult dog, here are important tips to help keep him out of harm’s way:
Keep household cleaners and chemicals out of his reach.
Restrict access to plants that are dangerous to dogs: poinsettias, azaleas, rhododendrons, dumb cane, Japanese yew, oleander and English ivy.
Store breakable items safely out of the way.
Hide or cover electrical cords so he won’t chew on them.
Safely store antifreeze, engine oil, laundry detergents and lawn chemicals.
Keep kids’ toys off the floor—since some parts may be small enough for your puppy or dog to swallow.
Use a cover and/or protective fencing if you have a pool or hot tub.

CHOOSING A NAME
Here are a few tips to consider before naming your new dog:
Names should be short. A two-syllable name is best because it’s brief and won’t be confused with one-syllable commands such as “No” or “Sit.”
Be consistent. All family members should use the same name—don’t use confusing nicknames or variations.
Reward your dog’s recognition of his name with lots of praise and play.

WELCOME HOME
As the “parent” of a puppy or new adult dog, it’s important for you to help him get used to his new surroundings. Think of him more as an infant than a pet: He’ll need plenty of patience, supervision and love. Here’s how you can help him adjust.
Bring him home when it’s quiet and you don’t have company. Also, choose a time when your routine is normal.
Show him the area of your yard that will be his bathroom before bringing him inside. Then take him there whenever he goes outside.
Give your dog his own room where you can keep his crate, complete with bedding and chew toys (leave the crate’s door open). He’ll feel safe in his “den.” Put down newspaper for accidents.
Supervise your puppy at all times, and play with him several times a day. You’ll help establish yourself as the pack leader.
Give him bathroom breaks every few hours and right after eating, drinking, sleeping and playing (watch for signals like sniffing or circling). Never punish your dog for accidents; instead, praise him when he goes in his outdoor spot.

GETTING EXERCISE
An appropriate amount of exercise will help promote your new dog’s good behavior and assist you in training him. Talk with your veterinarian about how much daily exercise your breed typically needs. Some dogs are just naturally more high-energy, and need more exercise than others. Schedule family members to exercise your dog throughout the day. I do not recommend outside walking until all shots have been completed which is 12 weeks of age.

MEETING CHILDREN
You should have no trouble at all encouraging your children to play with your new dog. Still, you’ll want to supervise his first interactions with your kids and set playtime limits—15-20 minutes two or three times a day. Here are still more ground rules to explain:
No rough teasing or playing. Tell your kids that tail-pulling and teasing can lead to bad habits like jumping up.
Be gentle. Tell kids never to shout at the dog, even if he does something wrong. Explain that dogs can be startled by loud noises.

INTRODUCING OTHER PETS
Here’s how to help him meet your resident animals:
Do it gradually. Keep them separated for the first few days.
Keep him safely in his crate (or behind an expandable doorway gate) as you supervise their first meeting.
After several days of sniffing each other out, let your resident pet enter the den while your new dog is out of his crate.
Giving your new dog the appropriate amount of exercise.
Supplies you’ll need
Have these supplies on hand before you bring your dog home with you.
Your puppy will be eating Victor Professional Formula.
Biscuits
Teething toys
Stainless-steel non-tipping food and water bowls
ID tags with the contact information for yourself and your veterinarian
Collar size small and a 6-foot leather or nylon leash
Wire Crate 24x36 (this is great for when they first get home because the cat pan will fit along with a bed)
Baby shampoo (we love Baby Majic)
Brushes and combs
Cleanup supplies such as a stain remover, paper towels, and deodorizing spray
Washable bed and blankets (I use old towels that I don't mind washing a lot)
Large cat pan
Pine Pellets  (Tractor Supply $6.00 for a 40 lb bag)
You will come home with a puppy packet for your puppy. It will include Shot record, Food information, Food sample, Free health insurance, AKC paperwork, toy and blankie.

ONLINE DOG OWNERS MANUAL:
www.dogster.com/guides/dog_health_and_care



Your first veterinarian visit

In addition to providing your new dog optimum nutrition, scheduling regular visits to the veterinarian is key to ensuring his health and
happiness. Here’s how to prepare.

GETTING READY
If you have time, introduce your dog to his new veterinarian by scheduling
an orientation-only visit. Let the veterinarian’s staff pet him and offer treats. If you project a calm, upbeat attitude, your dog will likely remain calm, too. Some experts recommend scheduling these “just dropping in” visits on a regular basis.

THE FIRST APPOINTMENT
At your dog’s first appointment, you’ll be asked basic information, and a staff member may weigh your pet. Keeping track of his weight can help identify problems associated with weight loss or gain.
Then you’ll meet the veterinarian. You’ll be asked about your dog’s diet and lifestyle. Next you’ll get to ask about your dog’s care. Then the veterinarian will examine him and may administer his first vaccinations. Ask about heart worm prevention and flea control products.

THE VACCINATION SCHEDULE
The information you provided will help the veterinarian determine the kinds of diseases your dog may be exposed to and plan an appropriate vaccination schedule.
Schedules vary, but it’s important for puppies to get a series of vaccinations to provide optimal protection against infectious diseases like the ones listed at right. The series is begun as early as 6 weeks old, with boosters given 3 to 4 weeks apart (6 WK, 9 WK AND 12WK) and yearly until they are 12 to 16 years old.
Canine Distemper
Adenovirus-2
Canine Parainfluenza (DA2P)
Canine Parvovirus (CPV)

SPAYING AND NEUTERING
To help your dog live a longer, healthier life (and control pet overpopulation), spaying or neutering is important. Your veterinarian will recommend the appropriate age, generally around 5-6 months.

BATHING YOUR PUPPY
A brushing each week will keep your pup’s coat in good condition, but if he gets really dirty or has acquired an odor, use these steps to bathe your dog:
Step 1: Brush your pup and then gently plug each ear with a cotton ball. Place him in a tub or basin with a nonskid surface. Hold the collar firmly, then pour lukewarm water over his body, being careful to leave his head dry.Cold water will chill your dog and make bathing an unpleasant experience.
Step 2: Use a baby shampoo to soap the body. Work up a lather, talking to your puppy and praising him as you work. When he’s well lathered, move to his head, being careful to keep shampoo out of his eyes, ears and mouth.
Step 3: Rinse and dry the head, then rinse the body. When the water runs clear, rinse one more time. Dry your pup with towels and then remove the cotton plugs from his ears. If your dog has healthy skin, you can dry him further with a hair dryer set on low or warm.



Things to work on once home:
Once home please work on these things.
First week= 10 new sounds,
Second week = 10 new people and
Third week = 10 new places. On the places that doesn't mean they have to go on the ground but even the drive through at the bank counts or in the shopping cart at Petsmart. Just try to be careful of public places until the full series of shots are completed.
Let me know what questions you have and I will post here.

Question 1: My puppys stools look to soft?
 If stools looks too soft, use yogurt and pumpkin. Are you over feeding?
Mix 1 tsp with each feed and it helps. Do this until stools look normal. Pumpkin is great of loose stools or for constipation.

Question 2: Have you started them going potty outside? No, you puppy is used to using a litterbox and pine pellets from Tractor Supply. Pine Pellets



Question 3: How do I keep my puppy from crying all night long? If your new dog is a young puppy, keep the crate close to your bed at night, and when you feel the need to reassure him, just poke your fingers through the bars of the door to allow him to smell you, but do not let him out if he starts to whine (this is where the earplugs come in). If he does not settle down after a short period of time, take him out (yes contradicting, but you should be able to tell the difference) and take him to his potty spot to relieve his bladder. Do not play with him, or cuddle him too much, just out to go pee, then right back in again. He needs to learn that night time is not play time. If you need to, set your alarm for about three hours into the night and get up and take him out to avoid accidents in the crate.

Once you are past the first two or three nights, both you and your puppy should be comfortable with the crate, and your nights will be easier. It won't be long before your pup is noticeably alerting you that he has to go outside, and the length between trips will expand, allowing all to get better rest at night.

Taken from :http://dogs.about.com/cs/basictraining/p/crate_training.htm

He is not finishing all of his food, do I leave it or pick it up?

Pick up what he does not eat. If he keeps coming back to finish it will keep his stools soft from over eating. He should know when he is full. If he continues to not finish at a meal time you may have to add back in a lunch time feed also. He should almost eat a cup of food per day.

He is biting my fingers, what can I do?http://schnauzersoftaylor.blogspot.com/2007/06/what-to-do-about-those-mouthy-pups.html
Here is some info I have up on Mouthy Pups.
My best advice is to yell OUCH as loud as you can and let him know he is hurting you. Replace something like a toy
into his mouth at that point. Plus remove all attention also so he learns that you will not play until he can be nice.
http://www.perfectpaws.com/pupstuff.html

My Vet recommends a parasite screen for like $23.00 do you think they need to do that? NO, he doesn't need parasite screen. He has been dewormed for hooks/rounds at 2,4,6 and just before he left. He also was de-wormed for tapes. That is why his stools were so yucky for a couple of days. I know that the dogs do not have any parasites :0)

Can you give me some hints as to how to stop the dog from marking?
He is too young to be marking!!! They will not mark until they are older and have hormones.
Puppys will not relieve themselves all the way and then will have small accidents.
This is part of potty training. Call your vet and he will confirm that this is true. A pup that was just 8 weeks old yesterday can not be marking.

You are going to have to working on potty training and not let him into those areas.
Confinement or constant supervision. Pick up the area rug for now and remove it. Put down a pee pad there.