Listed below are some common diseases and problems that some
puppies and their new owners may face. Please read over this
information so that you are armed with knowledge and can prevent
these problems from happening to you and be prepared if they do.
WORMS
Your dog can be infected with worms. Some worms you may visually see in your dog’s feces. The most common are Hookworms and Roundworms. Others you may not see such as Heartworms and Tapeworms. It is important to rid and/or protect your dog from these worms. There are several worming medications on the market that will take care of all these worms. Of all the worms,
Heartworms are the most dangerous to your dog. Heartworms wrap themselves around the dog’s heart and can eventually cause death. Heartworm medication must be prescribed by a veterinarian. The easiest thing to do is to get the medication that will not only destroy and prevent Heartworms but all the worms. Be sure to give your schnauzer this worming medication as prescribed
all year round for the life of your dog.
FLEAS AND TICKS
Fleas and ticks are one of the most common of parasites that can hurt your dog. Both fleas and ticks are blood suckers and depending on the size of your dog a large infestation of one or both
of these parasites can make your dog ill and even cause death. Your veterinarian can provide you with medication that can rid and/or prevent your dog of fleas and ticks. Pet shops and stores elling pet supplies also sell over the counter flea and tick products – collars, liquids and sprays.
Although some of these work well, they tend not to last very long so you may want to consider what type of product or medication you may want to use.
Brewers Yeast with garlic tabs is also greaet. These tablets tend to ward off fleas and ticks because of the garlic in the blood stream. The Brewers yeast is good for the dog's coat. Most dogs love the taste of them and will eat the tablets without a problem. Give 1 tablet per 10 pounds
of body weight per day. Brewers Yeast tablets are safe and can be used in conjunction with any other flea medication or repellent you are using.
COCCIDIA
Coccidia is also very common in puppies. Coccidia are not technically a worm, but a protozoan parasite that infect dogs. The Coccidia life cycles are complex and involve many stages of development. Coccidia produce cysts instead of larvae and eggs. Puppies usually get the infection from ingesting the cysts in the environment or from their mothers milk during nursing.
Symptoms usually occur in young animals and include diarrhea and abdominal pain. Blood in the diarrhea is very common. This is especially true in pets that are stressed or have other parasites.
Many pets, especially the older ones, do not show any symptoms when infected. Because of the unpredictable stages of Coccidia and additional factors such as stress, change of environment,
change of food and time of weening, symptoms of Coccidia can appear at any time during the young puppies life. The most reliable cure of Coccidia is a medication called Albon. A teaspoon of Albon once a day for 7 - 10 days usually rids the Coccidia from the puppy. Although Coccidia can be life threatening if gone untreated in very young puppies, there have been very few cases.
DIARRHEA
Your schnauzer may experience diarrhea. Diarrhea is not a disease but possibly a symptom of many other diseases. Most of the time diarrhea is not serious. Usually diarrhea is brought on by eating garbage or some other nasty morsel. Other minor causes are stomach or intestinal viruses. You can usually treat your pet at home for this type of diarrhea. Time is usually the best cure, but you
can give your dog a medicine such as Kaopectate. Give your dog 0.5 to 1.0 ml per pound of body weight every 2 to 6 hours. You will need to make sure that your bulldog does not get dehydrated.
You can give him/her a sports drink in his water dish to guard against loss of nutrients. Do not
feed your dog any table scraps or treats while he/she is suffering from diarrhea.
Your dog’s diarrhea may be serious if any of the following additional symptoms are present.
* Vomiting* Dehydration
* Loss of appetite * Abdominal pain
* Bloody diarrhea* Watery diarrhea
If the diarrhea is occurring in conjunction with one or more of the symptoms above, you should bring your bulldog to your veterinarian for a diagnosis.
At first, your dog will not like being washed, Q tipped, nail clipped, and medicated, but if you stick to a schedule and do these things often, your dog will grow to accept these as his daily life and you will not have a problem with him/her.
MANGE
DEMODECTIC MANGE (also called "Red Mange") is caused by a microscopic mite called
Demodex canis. All dogs raised normally by their mothers possess this mite as mites are transferred from mother to pup via cuddling during the first few days of life. (After the pup is older
it is unable to pick up demodex mites. Puppies raised by hand, do not ever get demodex mites.) For some reason, conditions change in certain dogs to allow demodex mites to "gain the upper hand;" the mites proliferate and can cause serious skin disease. Mites are not transmitted to
people or other dogs except from mother dog to pup as described. Demodectic mange (unlike Sarcoptic mange) is not contagious.Mites live inside hair follicles - a difficult place for miticides (chemicals that kill mites) to reach. Mites are a normal residents of dog skin; it is only in some
individual dogs that mites cause problems . DEMODICOSIS -- THE DISEASE ITSELF
Demodectic mange -- also called "demodicosis"-- has three forms:
FORM #1: LOCALIZED
Usually a red, scaly, well-circumscribed lesion on the face or forelegs is present. It generally goes
away on its own. Goodwinol ointment, an insecticide, may be used daily to control localized
demodicosis. Hair regrowth should be evident after about a month of treatment; however, some
localized cases appear "destined" to become generalized and no treatment will prevent this from
occurring.
When ointment is used, rubbing the medication on the area may break off the weaker hairs at the
margin of the lesion. The lesion may thus appear to get larger at first. Antibacterial gels are also
used against localized demodicosis and associated skin infections. Often it is best not to treat this
condition and to simply allow it to resolve on its own
FORM #2: GENERALIZED
The entire dog is affected with patchy fur, skin infections, bald, scaly skin. Most generalized
demodicosis starts as localized demodicosis.
* ADULT ONSET-- Most demodicosis occurs in young dogs. An older dog should not
get deodicosis unless it has an underlying problem with its immune system, possibly even cancer.
A veterinarian should be consulted regarding possible primary diseases.
* JUVENILE ONSET -- 30-50% of dogs under age 1 year recover spontaneously from generalized
demodicosis without any form of treatment. Usually treatment is recommended, though, to facilitate recovery.
FORM #3: DEMODECTIC PODODERMATITIS
STRESS AND GENERALIZED DEMODECTIC MANGE
Physiological stress is an important factor determining the degree of severity of demodectic
mange.
1. Females should be spayed as soon as the disease is controlled. Coming into heat, hormonefluxes, and pregnancy are very stressful. Also, predisposition to demodicosis is hereditary and
should not be passed on.
2.The dog should be fed a reputable brand of dog food so as to avoid any nutritionally related
problems.
3.Keep the pet parasite-free. Worms are irritants that the pet need not deal with and fleas may exacerbate the itchiness and skin infection.
4.Keep up the pet's vaccinations.
5.The mites themselves cause suppression of the immune system so the pet needs every
advantage to stay healthy.
PROGNOSIS
The younger the dog, the better the chance of cure. In many cases of adult-onset demodicosis, the disease is controlled by dips and baths but cure is not always possible. Some cases can
never be controlled.
TREATMENT OF CHOICE -- IVERMECTIN
Ivermectin is a broad spectrum anti-parasite medication generally used for food animals and horses. It is licensed for use in dogs and cats as a heartworm preventive and as a topical ear mite therapy at this time thus the use of this medication to treat demodicosis is not approved by
the FDA. When ivermectin was a new drug it was hoped that it could be used against demodectic mange mites. At first it was found ineffective but later it was determined that daily doses are needed (most other parasites can be controlled with wormings spaced several weeks apart.)
Ivermectin is inexpensive relative to Milbemycin and involves no labor intensive bathing. It DOES, however, taste terrible if given orally (it may be necessary for the owner to learn how to give ivermectin as an injectable treatment.)
SARCOPTIC MANGE (also called "Scabies") is the name for the skin disease caused by infection with the Sarcoptes scabei mite. Mites are not insects; instead they are more closely related to spiders. They are microscopic and cannot be seen with the naked eye.
Adult Sarcoptes scabei mites live 3-4 weeks in the host’s skin. After mating, the female burrows into the skin depositing 3-4 eggs in the tunnel behind her. The eggs hatch in 3-10 days producing a larva which, in turn, moves about on the skin surface eventually molting into a "nymphal" stage
and finally into an adult. The adults move on the surface of the skin where they mate and the cycle begins again with the female burrowing and laying eggs.
The motion of the mite in and on the skin is extremely itchy. Further, the presence of mites and their eggs generates a massive allergic response in the skin which is even more itchy. Mites prefer hairless skin thus leaving the ear flaps, elbows and abdomen at highest risk for the red,
scaly itchy skin that characterizes sarcoptic mange. It should be noted that this pattern of itching is similar to that found with airborne allergies (atopy) as well as with food allergies. Frequently, before attempting to sort out allergies, a veterinarian will simply treat a patient for sarcoptic mange
as a precaution. It is very easy to be led down the wrong path (pursuing allergy aggressively) if one considers sarcoptic mange an unusual or unlikely possibility.
As the infection progresses, eventually most of the dog's body will be involved. Classically, though, the picture begins on the ears (especially the ear margins), the elbows, and abdomen.
The term "Scabies" refers to mite infestations by either Sarcoptes scabei or other mite species closely related to Sarcoptes scabei. While Sarcoptes scabei can infect humans and cats, it tends not to persist on these hosts.
DIAGNOSIS
When an animal with sarcoptic mange scratches itself, it breaks open the tunnels that the mites have burrowed into and the mites are killed (though the itch persists due to toxins in the skin). The result is that the mites can be very difficult to confirm by skin scraping tests. (Probably mites are confirmed in 50% or fewer of sarcoptic mange cases).
Since negative test results do not rule out mite infection, a "Maybe Mange" test is frequently performed. This consists simply of treating for sarcoptic mange and observing for resolution of the signs within 2-4 weeks.
Of course, if mite presence is confirmed by skin scraping, then one knows immediately the cause of the itching and need not be concerned about allergy possibilities or other diseases and the
condition can be addressed with confidence.
BIOPSY - Mange mites are rarely seen on a skin biopsy sample, though, if the sample is read out by a pathologist who specializes in skin, the type of inflammation seen in the sample can be highly suggestive of sarcoptic mange. This is an example of a skin disease where it makes a difference whether the pathologist reading the sample specializes in reading skin samples.
TREATMENT
While sarcoptic mange is difficult to diagnose definitively, it is fairly easy to treat and a number of choices are available.
DIPPING - Anti-bacterial or anti-itch shampoos preceed one of several anti-mite dips. Paramite dip (an organophosphate), Mitaban dip (Amitraz), and Lime-Sulfur dips given weekly are usually effective. Disease typically resolves within one month. Dips are often used in combination with one of the other treatments listed below.
IVERMECTIN - This is one of the most effective treatments against Sarcoptes scabei yet is is off-label as far as the FDA is concerned. There are several protocols due to the very long activity of this drug in the body. Typically an injection is given either weekly or every two weeks in 1-4 doses.
In most cases this treatment is safe and effective but some individuals have a mutation which makes ivermectin very toxic at the doses used to kill mites. These individuals are usually of the Collie family: Collies, Shetland Sheepdogs, and Australian Shepherds are classically affected.
There is now a test that can determine if any dog has the mutation that makes ivermectin use dangerous. Selamectin is an ivermectin derivative recently marketed for the control of fleas, roundworms, hookworms, ticks, ear mites and sarcoptic mange mites. Normal monthly use of this product should prevent a sarcoptic mange problem but to clear an actual infection studies show
an extra dose is usually needed after 2 weeks for reliable results.
GAS
You can sometimes avoid this with diet. Taste Of The Wild has almost totally eliminated the gas problem, but each dog is different. Charcoal Bonio biscuits are great for a windy dog as the charcoal will help soak up the internal gasses.
HYPOGLYCEMIA (Low blood sugar):
This is common among toy breeds, especially the tiny ones (under two pounds). It is extremely important for you to watch for signs of this problem. This can be a needless killer of small puppies.
Symptoms are listlessness, staggering when trying to walk, acting lethargic, etc. Always make sure your puppy has food and water and check to see that it has eaten. Giving Nutri-cal or even honey or syrup (1-2 cc’s) will usually alleviate this problem. We make it a habit to give it to our puppies any time we will be gone for an extended period of time. This will usually cease to be a problem by
16 weeks of age.
CANINE PARVOVIRUS
Parvovirus is a HIGHLY CONTAGIOUS virus that attacks the intestines and causes sloughing of the inner layers of the intestine. The most common symptoms of this disease (the “intestinal form”) are vomiting and diarrhea. Another less common form, the “cardiac form”, occurs in very young pups (less than 8 weeks of age) and attacks the heart muscle, often resulting in sudden death.
Parvovirus is contagious to dogs only—not to cats or people. Any age, breed, or sex of dog could be affected by parvovirus. However, infection with parvovirus does not automatically mean illness. Several factors such as age, environment, stress, parasites, and general health status of each individual dog infected could affect the severity of the disease. The degree of illness could
range from very mild to unapparent to very severe, often resulting in death. The disease is usually more severe in young dogs (less than 6 months of age), old dogs, Rottweilers, and Dobermans. The younger and smaller the dog, the greater the chance that it will not recover.
Parvovirus is resistant to extremes of temperature (i.e., it survives freezing and extreme heat) and is unharmed by detergents, alcohol, and common disinfectants. Direct transmission occurs when an infected dog comes in contact with a healthy dog. The virus is found in heavy concentration in
the infected dog’s stool. Because dogs will usually sniff where another dog has eliminated, this fecal-oral transmission is the most common method of transmission. The virus particles can be easily spread by hands, shoes, clothing, or other inanimate objects (fomites)—this is an indirect source of transmission.
As many as 30 billion parvovirus particles can be shed from the intestines of an infected dog in every ounce of stool. The highest concentration of virus in the stool is seen when the infected dog is showing signs of illness. A dog can, however, be a source of infection to other dogs without it having observable signs of illness (the disease may be incubating). Transmission can
occur for at least 3 weeks after a dog becomes infected with the virus. Chronic “carriers” are not known to exist as in other viral diseases. Parvovirus in the environment can infect susceptible dogs for as long as 6 months once shed in the stool.
Clinical signs include vomiting, fever, loss of appetite, depression, and bloody diarrhea with a very foul odor. Infected animals rapidly dehydrate and severe cases progress to shock and death.
Early, vigorous treatment of illness caused by canine parvovirus infection can save lives.
Cardiac form (less than 8 weeks of age):
*
Sudden death
*
Crying, difficulty breathing, gasping for breath
*
Extreme depression
*
Weakness
*
Unwillingness to nurse
*
Irregular heartbeat
Intestinal form (any age dog affected, but more severe in puppies):
*
Depression
*
Loss of appetite
*
Fever (usually above 103F)
*
Vomiting with or without blood
*
Diarrhea with or without blood (more serious if blood present)
*
Low white blood cell count (due to immunosuppression)
Treatment is aimed at maintaining the normal body composition and preventing secondary bacterial infection. Because this is a virus, there is NO CURE. Death from parvovirus results from dehydration, overwhelming secondary bacterial infection, blood loss from intestinal hemorrhage, or heart attack from invasion of the heart muscle by the virus.
Early FLUID THERAPY is the most important factor in treating dogs with parvovirus infection. The body is normally about 80% water. Life is NOT possible when 12-15% of the normal body fluids are lost. Intravenous fluids both rehydrate the body and nourish the sick dog.
Additional treatment includes prevention of secondary bacterial infection and drugs to control vomiting and diarrhea. No food or water is given while the dog is vomiting. Repeated laboratory tests are often necessary to monitor your pet’s white blood cell count and state of hydration.
HOSPITALIZATION enables us to provide the best medicine and is the best way to achieve success. There is NO GUARANTEE, even with hospitalization, that your pet will survive. With most dogs, there is at least a 70% survival rate. Very small (young) puppies, Rottweilers, and dobermans usually only have a 30-50% chance of survival. Length of treatment depends on the
severity of disease. Most dogs have to stay hospitalized for at least 2-4 days, but may require treatment for as long as a week. Dogs that recover from parvo are often weak, making them even more susceptible to other diseases, such as distemper. Dogs that recover from parvo continue to spread the virus in the feces for a month or longer.
Prevention/Control of parvovirus by sanitation measures alone is extremely difficult because the virus is such a resistant, hardy organism and because it is so easily spread. Contact with other
dogs,and especially their stool, should be minimized. Clorox diluted one part to 30 parts water (4 oz Clorox in 1 gallon of water) has been effective in disinfecting inanimate objects such as clothing, floors, kennels, etc. However, it is impractical, if not impossible, to disinfect public
streets, parks, etc. Isolation of infected dogs is another method of control, moderately effective.
Both of these measures will help reduce the amount of contagious virus in the environment, but only a full series of vaccinations, with appropriate booster intervals, will help to control the source
of infection, the contagious shedding dog.
Guidelines for young puppies:
1. Do not take the puppy to the front yard, park, for a walk around the block, or to pet stores.
These are all places where infected dogs have been or presently are.
2. Only have the puppy around adult dogs that YOU KNOW are current on vaccinations. There should be no contact with stray dogs or dogs that you are not sure of.
3. Do not let the puppy be exposed to any other puppies. These pups could be incubating the disease (and therefore be contagious) without showing signs of illness.
4. Always wash your hands after handling any dog.
Vaccination is the most effective preventive measure for canine parvovirus disease. A properly immunized dog will have circulating antibodies in the blood that will destroy parvovirus following
exposure. Dogs remain HIGHLY SUSCEPTIBLE to parvo until 2-4 weeks after the last injection of
the immunization series.
*~*Schnauzers Of Taylor*~ Everything we do can make a difference. Dedicated to impeccable breeding of the highest standards. We specialize in AKC mini companion pets. Puppies raised in our home nursery with constant love, attention, monitoring and kisses. Health guarantee, CERF/DNA, puppy pkt, blankie and toy. We even litter box trained.We are a very small home breeder so expect to wait for our wonderful litters**AKC Inspected May 2014*~No Shipping, we want to meet face to face*~*
Friday, May 01, 2009
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
**Must Haves For New Puppy**
Now that you've decided to get a puppy or dog, the next few weeks will be busy and at times, more than a little bit crazy. That's why it's important to plan in advance for the arrival of your new pet. If possible, get as many necessities ready before your puppy comes home.
The Basics
Travel crate: Even if you don't plan on crate training your dog, consider the benefits of owning a crate for other reasons, like transporting an ill or injured puppy to the veterinarian.
Food and water bowls: For a puppy, keep the bowls low and shallow. Tip-proof works well, too. As they grow, you'll likely need to upgrade to larger dishes to accommodate your pet's size.
Food: You puppy will be eating a quality puppy food, please ask
Collar: Size small.
Leash: A six-foot lead works well. Choose a light one. I like a body soft body harness for training.
ID tag: As one of the first things people search for when finding a stray dog, an ID tag can help make sure your puppy makes it home safely. At a minimum, have your phone number engraved on the tag.
Grooming supplies: Every pup can benefit from a good weekly brushing. It's also a great way to have quiet, bonding time with your new dog. Bathing every two weeks with a gently baby shampoo works not to mention they smell great. We love Baby Majic Baby Shampoo.
Housebreaking supplies:You puppy is being potty trained to use a "Litter Box". You will need to purchase pine pellets from a feed supply store of you can use the pellets. They do cost more though.
Veterinarian: If you don't have a favorite vet already, ask family, friends and neighbors for a recommendation. Have an appointment scheduled within the first few days of bringing your puppy home, so your vet can check for worms, other health conditions, and start her vaccination regimen.
The Extras
Obedience classes: Every dog can benefit from learning some basic obedience skills.Check to see what is available and go ahead and register. Your puppy can not a attend a class until they have their 3rd set of shots.
Puppy treats: Yummy treats are the perfect reward when you're working on obedience. Or for when they're just being adorable. Choose something of high quality.
Toys: Chew toys help satisfy your new puppy's teething needs. If you'd like to teach your dog to retrieve, look at purchasing a few balls, but make sure they're not so small that your dog chokes. A lot of people swear by Kong, an awesome rubber toy you stuff with treats to keep your new pal busy.
Sour apple spray: Use this product to spray on spots your puppy loves to chew on. It's a terrific deterrent for naughty puppies.
Baby gates: Want to keep your dog in one area of your house? Use baby gates to corral him. Let's face it; for a lot of us, dogs are our babies anyway!
Dog house: If your pup will spend some time outdoors, he'll probably love having his own little house. Fill it with great chew toys and a cozy blanket, and it will be the perfect home away from home. Doggie door: Training your dog to use a doggie door when she needs to go outdoors makes life easier for you and your pal.
Clothing: Depending on where you live, sweaters or snow boots may be required outdoor gear for your dog.
Now that you have the basics on hand, don't forget the most essential items for your new puppy: lots of hugs, kisses, and sweet talk. Best of all, they're free! Check out OLIVE DOG for wonderful doggie and puppy products.
~~Preparing For Puppy~~
While excitement and anticipation will be at the top of the list when bringing home a new puppy for the first time, preparing for his arrival should rank highly on the list. Just as you would have to prepare a home when you have a toddler, pet owners also have to take certain precautions when "puppy-proofing."
Before you begin preparing your home for a puppy, you should think about the front yard and garden. First, check fences and gates to be sure there are no holes massive enough for him to get his head stuck in or escape through. Watch for litter and trash cans, which can be knocked over, giving your new puppy the opportunity to eat things that might make him sick. Also, know where you are treating your lawn and garden with pesticides, and then don't let your puppy in that area. In addition, produce sure that all chemicals and more harmful products are put away out of your new child's reach.
Next, you will have to inspect your home as if a strange toddler is coming to live with you! Just like toddlers, puppies will think everything is new and exciting. They don't know when something is dangerous or can't tell if that "interesting" remote control will get them into trouble.
In addition, when restructuring your home for the new puppy, you should keep these tips in mind:
Make sure all electrical and cable wires are either in a space your puppy will not have access to, or hide them under rugs or carpets. Don't keep wires where your puppy may gnaw or chew on them.
Just like a toddler, your puppy will investigate each element, including low cupboards. Just when you believed having a puppy was simpler than an infant, he'll learn to pull those cupboard doors open! Think about installing locks or "child-proof" devices.
So far, so good, right? Well, that's only if you remember that in reality your puppy has the brain of a little kid. Soon you'll be getting ready for afternoon walks to the park, three a.m. trips to the bathroom, (more officially, outside) and lots of snuggling. So, while preparing your home for your puppy, think of him as a member of your family. Get him a bed that is chew resistant. Line it with comfortable, washable, bedding and then place it in a favorite place just for him. Be sure it's somewhere he'll be safe and comfortable.
Preparing your home for your new puppy is a lot to handle, so you can look at buying a puppy pen until everything settles down. Just like a baby's playpen, a puppy pen will offer an area for him to play without roaming the home. By doing this, you are also saving your furniture and more objects from being chewed on. (Don't worry, he'll hopefully grow out of this!)
One last thing to think about when preparing your home for your puppy is any stairs that you might have in the home. If you have an open basement or even 2nd floor, utilize toddler gates to confine his run area to avoid accidents. Infants and puppies aren't aware of danger and don't understand that they may fall down steps and get hurt.
The bottom line to think about while preparing your home for the new puppy is, just like a baby, they will require cuddling, attention and there will obviously be a lot of wet kisses!
Friday, February 20, 2009
House/Crate Training
What are the best methods for house training a puppy?
A. If your dog is going to live inside the home, and in America over 90% of our pets do, you are going to have to go through the housebreaking process unless you have grossly different hygienic standards than most. It is not hard, it need not be messy, and it need not be a struggle. It does not have to take a long time. Remember that it is a training issue and you will need to have more than casual input. It will take some of your time but the more involved you get, the shorter that span will be.
The Rules
House Training Rule Number One: This is The Most Important Rule – If you don't catch your puppy doing it - then don't punish him for it!
House Training Rule Number Two: Praise your puppy when things go right. Don't let this be a situation where your only action is saying "No" when they are caught in the midst of using the wrong area. If they do it right – let them know!
Methods of house training
Starting Inside: There are several ways to housebreak a puppy. With the first, you can put down papers or pretreated pads, encouraging them to use these areas for going to the bathroom. The pads are scented with a chemical that attracts the puppy to use them. Whenever you see them starting into their "pre-potty pattern," such as walking around and sniffing the floor, you gently pick them up without talking and carry them over to the papers/pad and then praise them when they go to the bathroom (Rule 2).
When all goes well and they are using the papers consistently, the papers are either moved closer to the door and/or another set is placed outside. The transition is made from concentrating the toilet habits to one spot inside the home to one spot outside the home. Finally, the papers inside are eliminated. The only problem with this method is that for a period of time it encourages the animal to eliminate inside the home. In our experience, house training may take longer when this method is used.
Your puppy will be started using a litter box.
Please see: http://www.doglitter.com/imgs/doglitter/trainingGuide_english.pdf
Crate Training: The second popular method of house training involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like to soil their beds because they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works, and while in these confines, most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8 or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or 8 hours, however, we would never recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long in most circumstances. A litter box works great for back up when you are away for this many hours.
During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he is placed in the crate. This might be while you are cooking, reading to the children, or even away from the home. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time.
Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. It does more than just stop the animal from messing in the house. It also teaches the puppy something very important. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he can hold it. Just because the pup feels like he needs to relieve himself, the pup learns that he does not have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on.
Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog's life and it would be nice if you did not have to keep buying more as he grows. That is not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that will be big enough for him as an adult, but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these, you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as he does.
Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a house training method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy’s newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life.
Constant Supervision: The last method involves no papers, pads, or crates. Rather, you chose to spend all the time necessary with the puppy. This works very well for people who live and work in their homes, retired persons, or in situations where the owners are always with the animal. Whenever they see the puppy doing his "pre-potty pattern" they hustle him outside. It is important that the dog is watched at all times and that no mistakes are allowed to occur. This method has less room for error, as there is nothing like a cage to restrict the animal’'s urges, nor is there a place for him to relieve himself such as on the papers or pad. When he is taken outside, watch the puppy closely and as soon as all goes as planned, he should be praised and then brought back inside immediately. You want the dog to understand that the purpose for going outside was to go to the bathroom. Do not start playing, make it a trip for a reason. Verbal communications help this method and we will discuss them soon. For those with the time, this is a good method. We still recommend having a crate available as a backup when the owners have to be away from the animal.
Verbal cues
Specific verbal communications will also help the two of you understand what is desired. It is an excellent idea to always use a word when it is time to head to the bathroom. We like "Outside?" Remember that whenever you use a verbal command or signal, it is important that everybody in the family always uses the same word in the same way. Think of the word "Outside" in this situation not only as a question you are asking the pup, but also as an indication that you want to go there. Some dogs may get into the habit of going to the door when they want to go outside. This is great when it happens but it is not as common as some believe. We have found that it is better to use verbal commands to initiate this sort of activity rather than waiting for the puppy to learn this behavior on his own. It seems like your consistent use of a word or phrase like "Outside" will cause the puppy to come to you rather than the door when he needs to go outside. The pup quickly sees you as part of the overall activity of getting to where he needs to go. We believe this is much better.
Once outside, we try to encourage the pup to get on with the act in question. We use the phrase "Do your numbers." This is probably a holdover from our own parenthood and hearing children use the "Number 1" or "Number 2" phrases. Others use 'Do It,' 'Potty,' or 'Hurry Up.' As soon as they eliminate, it is very important to praise them with a "Good Dog" and then come back inside immediately. Again, make this trip that started outside with a specific word "Outside" be for a purpose. If we are taking the pup out to play with a ball or go for a walk we will not use this word even if we know they will eliminate while we are outside.
When an 'accident' happens
One of the key issues in housebreaking is to follow Rule Number One: If you do not catch your puppy doing it, then do not punish him for it! We do not care what someone else may tell you or what you read, if you find a mess that was left when you were not there, clean it up and forget it.
Discipline will not help because unless you catch the puppy in the act, he will have no idea what the scolding is for. Your puppy has urinated and defecated hundreds of times before he met you. Mom or the breeder always cleaned it up. Nobody made a fuss before and the pup will not put the punishment, regardless of its form, together with something he has done without incident numerous times before. Especially if he did it more than 30 seconds ago! Puppies are just like our children. Unless something was really fun (and a repetitious act like going to the bathroom is not), they are not thinking about what they did in the past. They are thinking about what they can do in the future. At this point in his life a puppy's memory is very, very poor.
Anyway, let us face it. It was your fault, not the pup's. If you had been watching, you would have noticed the puppy suddenly walking or running around in circles with his nose down smelling for the perfect spot to go to the bathroom. It is just as consistent as the taxi cab driver behind you honking immediately when the light changes. The puppy will show the same behavior every time. It may vary a little from pup to pup but they always show their own "pre-potty pattern" before the act.
The same should be said as to your first reaction when you actually catch them in the act of urinating or defecating. It is your fault, you were not watching for or paying attention to the signals. Do not get mad. Quickly, but calmly pick them up and without raising your voice sternly say "No." Carry them outside or to their papers. It will help to push their tail down while you are carrying them as this will often help them to stop urinating or defecating any more.
They are going to be excited when you get them outside or to the papers, but stay there with them a while and if they finish the job, reward them with simple praise like "Good Dog."
House Training Rule Number One: If you don't catch your puppy doing it, then don't punish him for it!
In the disciplining of dogs, just like in physics, every action has a reaction and for training purposes these may not be beneficial! If you overreact and severely scold or scare the heck out of a puppy for making what is in your mind a mistake, your training is probably going backwards. With house training this is especially difficult for them to understand as they are carrying out a natural body function. Carried one step farther is the idea of rubbing a puppy's nose into a mistake he made, whether you caught him or not. In the limits of a puppy’s intelligence, please explain to us the difference of rubbing his nose in his mess he left in your kitchen an hour ago versus the one the neighbor's dog left in the park two weeks ago. If the dog were smart enough to figure all of this out, the only logical choice would be to permanently quit going to the bathroom. Punishment rarely speeds up house training. Often, it makes the dog nervous or afraid every time it needs to go to the bathroom.
We will give you a perfect example of how this kind of disciplining causes long-term problems between a dog and his owner. A client makes an appointment to discuss a housebreaking problem. They are hoping that on physical exam or through some testing we can find a medical reason for the animal's inability to successfully make it through housebreaking. They readily admit their frustration with the dog. The fecal and urine tests reveal no problem. We assumed that would be the case and have no intention of charging for those services. In the examination room, the pup is showing a lot more interest in the veterinarian than he is in his owners. The animal's eyes are almost saying, "Please kidnap me from them." When the owner reaches down to pet the dog on his head, the pup reflexively closes his eyes and turns his head to the side. The dog reacts as if he were going to be hit. What this tells us is that the dog has been punished for making messes in the owners' absence. During this punishment the puppy is not, and we repeat, the puppy is not thinking about what he might have done two hours ago. He is not thinking that he should not make messes in the house. The animal is not even thinking about the messes.
The classic line that usually goes with this scenario then comes up "When we get home we know he has made a mess because he always sulks or runs and hides!" The dog is not thinking about some mistake he may have made. Rather, the pup has learned that when the people first get home, for some reason he has yet to figure out, they are always in a bad mood and he gets punished. The puppy has decided that maybe he would be better to try to avoid them for awhile so he does try to hide. In this particular case, discipline, misunderstood by the puppy, has caused him to fear his owners and this will probably affect their relationship throughout the life of the dog.
If you want house training to go quickly, regardless of the method you use, spend as much time as possible with your puppy. In an exam room, one of us once listened to a client complain about how he had to take some time off from work for his own mental health and also, but unrelated, how the puppy was not doing too well in the house training department. For us this statement was just too good to be true. It was the perfect set-up for our pitch. This gentleman, a bachelor, truly loved his puppy. We saw them together everywhere. Still, the problem was that he worked in a downtown office and the pup was home. His work allowed him to get home frequently but not always on a consistent schedule. There would be accidents when he was gone and sometimes he was gone longer than the abilities or the attention span of the puppy.
The solution was easy. We simply suggested his health and the puppy's training would both do better if he stayed home for a week or so. It worked. Under the man's watchful eye, he was always there at the time when he was needed and in less than seven days the ten-week-old puppy was trained. We are not saying there was never another accident, but they were few and far between. In the end, the best of all worlds occurred. The man realized his dog could be trusted, and thereafter, they spent their days together at the man's office.
Feeding and house training
The feeding schedule you use can help or hinder housebreaking. You will soon notice that puppies will need to go outside soon after they wake and also within 30 to 40 minutes after eating. Be consistent when you feed the animal so you can predict when they need to relieve themselves. Plan your trips outside around these patterns.
All of this may seem simple, and it really is. The keys are that it will take time and you must be consistent. And, of course, you must never lose your temper or even get excited.
Spontaneous or submissive urination
Puppies may spontaneously urinate when excited. This may be when they first see you, at meeting a new dog, or when they are scared. It is often referred to as submissive or excitement urination. Do not discipline the puppy for this, as it is something they cannot control. Simply ignore it and clean up the mess. If you do not overreact, they will usually outgrow this between 4 and 7 months of age.
Summary
Your new puppy is home and you have started the house training process. This is just as much a part of training as the "Come" and "Stay" commands. However, mistakes that occur with house training can cause more problems between you and your pet than those encountered with any other form of training. Be patient and stay calm.
A. If your dog is going to live inside the home, and in America over 90% of our pets do, you are going to have to go through the housebreaking process unless you have grossly different hygienic standards than most. It is not hard, it need not be messy, and it need not be a struggle. It does not have to take a long time. Remember that it is a training issue and you will need to have more than casual input. It will take some of your time but the more involved you get, the shorter that span will be.
The Rules
House Training Rule Number One: This is The Most Important Rule – If you don't catch your puppy doing it - then don't punish him for it!
House Training Rule Number Two: Praise your puppy when things go right. Don't let this be a situation where your only action is saying "No" when they are caught in the midst of using the wrong area. If they do it right – let them know!
Methods of house training
Starting Inside: There are several ways to housebreak a puppy. With the first, you can put down papers or pretreated pads, encouraging them to use these areas for going to the bathroom. The pads are scented with a chemical that attracts the puppy to use them. Whenever you see them starting into their "pre-potty pattern," such as walking around and sniffing the floor, you gently pick them up without talking and carry them over to the papers/pad and then praise them when they go to the bathroom (Rule 2).
When all goes well and they are using the papers consistently, the papers are either moved closer to the door and/or another set is placed outside. The transition is made from concentrating the toilet habits to one spot inside the home to one spot outside the home. Finally, the papers inside are eliminated. The only problem with this method is that for a period of time it encourages the animal to eliminate inside the home. In our experience, house training may take longer when this method is used.
Your puppy will be started using a litter box.
Please see: http://www.doglitter.com/imgs/doglitter/trainingGuide_english.pdf
Crate Training: The second popular method of house training involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like to soil their beds because they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works, and while in these confines, most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8 or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or 8 hours, however, we would never recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long in most circumstances. A litter box works great for back up when you are away for this many hours.
During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he is placed in the crate. This might be while you are cooking, reading to the children, or even away from the home. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time.
Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. It does more than just stop the animal from messing in the house. It also teaches the puppy something very important. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he can hold it. Just because the pup feels like he needs to relieve himself, the pup learns that he does not have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on.
Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog's life and it would be nice if you did not have to keep buying more as he grows. That is not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that will be big enough for him as an adult, but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these, you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as he does.
Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a house training method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy’s newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life.
Constant Supervision: The last method involves no papers, pads, or crates. Rather, you chose to spend all the time necessary with the puppy. This works very well for people who live and work in their homes, retired persons, or in situations where the owners are always with the animal. Whenever they see the puppy doing his "pre-potty pattern" they hustle him outside. It is important that the dog is watched at all times and that no mistakes are allowed to occur. This method has less room for error, as there is nothing like a cage to restrict the animal’'s urges, nor is there a place for him to relieve himself such as on the papers or pad. When he is taken outside, watch the puppy closely and as soon as all goes as planned, he should be praised and then brought back inside immediately. You want the dog to understand that the purpose for going outside was to go to the bathroom. Do not start playing, make it a trip for a reason. Verbal communications help this method and we will discuss them soon. For those with the time, this is a good method. We still recommend having a crate available as a backup when the owners have to be away from the animal.
Verbal cues
Specific verbal communications will also help the two of you understand what is desired. It is an excellent idea to always use a word when it is time to head to the bathroom. We like "Outside?" Remember that whenever you use a verbal command or signal, it is important that everybody in the family always uses the same word in the same way. Think of the word "Outside" in this situation not only as a question you are asking the pup, but also as an indication that you want to go there. Some dogs may get into the habit of going to the door when they want to go outside. This is great when it happens but it is not as common as some believe. We have found that it is better to use verbal commands to initiate this sort of activity rather than waiting for the puppy to learn this behavior on his own. It seems like your consistent use of a word or phrase like "Outside" will cause the puppy to come to you rather than the door when he needs to go outside. The pup quickly sees you as part of the overall activity of getting to where he needs to go. We believe this is much better.
Once outside, we try to encourage the pup to get on with the act in question. We use the phrase "Do your numbers." This is probably a holdover from our own parenthood and hearing children use the "Number 1" or "Number 2" phrases. Others use 'Do It,' 'Potty,' or 'Hurry Up.' As soon as they eliminate, it is very important to praise them with a "Good Dog" and then come back inside immediately. Again, make this trip that started outside with a specific word "Outside" be for a purpose. If we are taking the pup out to play with a ball or go for a walk we will not use this word even if we know they will eliminate while we are outside.
When an 'accident' happens
One of the key issues in housebreaking is to follow Rule Number One: If you do not catch your puppy doing it, then do not punish him for it! We do not care what someone else may tell you or what you read, if you find a mess that was left when you were not there, clean it up and forget it.
Discipline will not help because unless you catch the puppy in the act, he will have no idea what the scolding is for. Your puppy has urinated and defecated hundreds of times before he met you. Mom or the breeder always cleaned it up. Nobody made a fuss before and the pup will not put the punishment, regardless of its form, together with something he has done without incident numerous times before. Especially if he did it more than 30 seconds ago! Puppies are just like our children. Unless something was really fun (and a repetitious act like going to the bathroom is not), they are not thinking about what they did in the past. They are thinking about what they can do in the future. At this point in his life a puppy's memory is very, very poor.
Anyway, let us face it. It was your fault, not the pup's. If you had been watching, you would have noticed the puppy suddenly walking or running around in circles with his nose down smelling for the perfect spot to go to the bathroom. It is just as consistent as the taxi cab driver behind you honking immediately when the light changes. The puppy will show the same behavior every time. It may vary a little from pup to pup but they always show their own "pre-potty pattern" before the act.
The same should be said as to your first reaction when you actually catch them in the act of urinating or defecating. It is your fault, you were not watching for or paying attention to the signals. Do not get mad. Quickly, but calmly pick them up and without raising your voice sternly say "No." Carry them outside or to their papers. It will help to push their tail down while you are carrying them as this will often help them to stop urinating or defecating any more.
They are going to be excited when you get them outside or to the papers, but stay there with them a while and if they finish the job, reward them with simple praise like "Good Dog."
House Training Rule Number One: If you don't catch your puppy doing it, then don't punish him for it!
In the disciplining of dogs, just like in physics, every action has a reaction and for training purposes these may not be beneficial! If you overreact and severely scold or scare the heck out of a puppy for making what is in your mind a mistake, your training is probably going backwards. With house training this is especially difficult for them to understand as they are carrying out a natural body function. Carried one step farther is the idea of rubbing a puppy's nose into a mistake he made, whether you caught him or not. In the limits of a puppy’s intelligence, please explain to us the difference of rubbing his nose in his mess he left in your kitchen an hour ago versus the one the neighbor's dog left in the park two weeks ago. If the dog were smart enough to figure all of this out, the only logical choice would be to permanently quit going to the bathroom. Punishment rarely speeds up house training. Often, it makes the dog nervous or afraid every time it needs to go to the bathroom.
We will give you a perfect example of how this kind of disciplining causes long-term problems between a dog and his owner. A client makes an appointment to discuss a housebreaking problem. They are hoping that on physical exam or through some testing we can find a medical reason for the animal's inability to successfully make it through housebreaking. They readily admit their frustration with the dog. The fecal and urine tests reveal no problem. We assumed that would be the case and have no intention of charging for those services. In the examination room, the pup is showing a lot more interest in the veterinarian than he is in his owners. The animal's eyes are almost saying, "Please kidnap me from them." When the owner reaches down to pet the dog on his head, the pup reflexively closes his eyes and turns his head to the side. The dog reacts as if he were going to be hit. What this tells us is that the dog has been punished for making messes in the owners' absence. During this punishment the puppy is not, and we repeat, the puppy is not thinking about what he might have done two hours ago. He is not thinking that he should not make messes in the house. The animal is not even thinking about the messes.
The classic line that usually goes with this scenario then comes up "When we get home we know he has made a mess because he always sulks or runs and hides!" The dog is not thinking about some mistake he may have made. Rather, the pup has learned that when the people first get home, for some reason he has yet to figure out, they are always in a bad mood and he gets punished. The puppy has decided that maybe he would be better to try to avoid them for awhile so he does try to hide. In this particular case, discipline, misunderstood by the puppy, has caused him to fear his owners and this will probably affect their relationship throughout the life of the dog.
If you want house training to go quickly, regardless of the method you use, spend as much time as possible with your puppy. In an exam room, one of us once listened to a client complain about how he had to take some time off from work for his own mental health and also, but unrelated, how the puppy was not doing too well in the house training department. For us this statement was just too good to be true. It was the perfect set-up for our pitch. This gentleman, a bachelor, truly loved his puppy. We saw them together everywhere. Still, the problem was that he worked in a downtown office and the pup was home. His work allowed him to get home frequently but not always on a consistent schedule. There would be accidents when he was gone and sometimes he was gone longer than the abilities or the attention span of the puppy.
The solution was easy. We simply suggested his health and the puppy's training would both do better if he stayed home for a week or so. It worked. Under the man's watchful eye, he was always there at the time when he was needed and in less than seven days the ten-week-old puppy was trained. We are not saying there was never another accident, but they were few and far between. In the end, the best of all worlds occurred. The man realized his dog could be trusted, and thereafter, they spent their days together at the man's office.
Feeding and house training
The feeding schedule you use can help or hinder housebreaking. You will soon notice that puppies will need to go outside soon after they wake and also within 30 to 40 minutes after eating. Be consistent when you feed the animal so you can predict when they need to relieve themselves. Plan your trips outside around these patterns.
All of this may seem simple, and it really is. The keys are that it will take time and you must be consistent. And, of course, you must never lose your temper or even get excited.
Spontaneous or submissive urination
Puppies may spontaneously urinate when excited. This may be when they first see you, at meeting a new dog, or when they are scared. It is often referred to as submissive or excitement urination. Do not discipline the puppy for this, as it is something they cannot control. Simply ignore it and clean up the mess. If you do not overreact, they will usually outgrow this between 4 and 7 months of age.
Summary
Your new puppy is home and you have started the house training process. This is just as much a part of training as the "Come" and "Stay" commands. However, mistakes that occur with house training can cause more problems between you and your pet than those encountered with any other form of training. Be patient and stay calm.
Sunday, January 18, 2009
PUPPY QUESTIONNAIRE
The following questions are being asked of you so that the right puppy and the right placement of each puppy is made by bringing the various requirements of both the puppy and his or new owner(s) into perspective, BEFORE a choice is made. I hope you will agree that the animal's welfare must be my foremost consideration in considering a placement.
Click Here for your questionnaire
Thursday, January 01, 2009
Exercise, Healthy Eating Helps Your Dog Live Longer
By Beth Taylor and Steve Brown
Our dogs have many of the same needs we do. To be at their best, they need real, fresh food in the balance that's best for their individual needs. For dogs, real food in its natural balance means meat and vegetables. Yet, all too frequently, we are advised to feed our dogs senior food, often for dogs starting as young as 6-years-old.
Veterinarians started recommending senior food years ago, when research seemed to show that dogs (and humans) with kidney problems would do better on a reduced protein diet. So, the reasoning went, we could avoid kidney failure by feeding a reduced protein diet as dogs aged.
This has not proved to be true for dogs or humans, and the big pet food companies agree. 1-4
Senior foods are higher in grain than adult foods, which will cause their bodies to increase their production of insulin and inflammatory chemicals. These foods are designed to be lower in fat and protein, with increased fiber. However, older dogs need better protein and more of it. 5 In our opinion, senior and light diets are detrimental to the health of older dogs.
If Sparky could talk, he'd tell you it's true. When we met Sparky, he was a 9-year-old stout Brittany Spaniel that was not feeling very well. His family switched from senior dry food to a fresh frozen diet as an experiment to see if a lower carbohydrate diet would help him lose weight.
In four months, he had lost about 10 pounds, and the following health issues were resolved:
Flaky coat
Itchy skin
Frequent bladder infections
Multiple aches and pains
Most of the tartar on his teeth
Read More About the Top-Recommended Healthy and Natural Treat for Dogs Now!
Today, Sparky has plenty of energy and no longer qualifies as an old dog.
Why? A species-appropriate diet, based on meat and vegetables, provides the protein, fat, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants needed to keep the immune system and the brain working well. Good fats keep inflammation in check and hormonal systems functioning properly.
Delaying Old Age
In a 14-year study that compared two groups of Labradors (one group free-fed and the other kept lean), lean dogs lived two years longer, and the muscle wasting associated with old age was delayed by two years compared to the group allowed to become overweight.
In addition, lean dogs did not develop arthritis until many years after the overweight dogs that began to show arthritic changes at age 2. 6 Even if your dog has not been kept lean, you may see most of these benefits when you help your dog shed those extra pounds with a meat and vegetable-based diet. It's never too late!
Those with achy and overweight dogs will be amazed to see the difference in how their dogs feel and act when they are fed meat- and vegetable-based diets. We have often seen the health of dogs transformed by a change of diet.
Dogs with common chronic medical conditions need the supervision of a veterinarian who is skilled with fresh food diets to supervise and fine-tune a fresh food diet. Almost all chronic conditions (diabetes, arthritis, irritable bowel disease and irritable bowel syndrome, liver and kidney problems, dental disease) will improve on a home-prepared diet designed to support the specific issue.
Learning New Tricks
Good food keeps dogs lean, but they also need exercise. If our older animals are not fit, the best diet in the world won't keep them with us.
At your spring veterinary wellness checkup, find out what level of activity your veterinarian thinks is suitable for your animals to start with, and add from there. Many conditions we have discounted as "just old age" diminish or disappear with good exercise.
Digestion improves, elimination becomes more regular, animals are less achy and their brains work better. Getting more oxygen circulating builds lungs and heart and improves overall muscle tone and general health immensely. Brisk walking is a great start, but dogs need to get moving enough to get out of breath as well.
For smaller dogs, this is easy to accomplish. Very out-of-shape dogs will get winded pretty quickly, too, but as their fitness increases, those with big dogs will need to find ways to get them really moving.
In our experience, we've also found dogs often fade away from simple boredom. With an improved diet, they are likely to feel more like being active, but they need mental stimulation as well. The following are some simple games you can play with them to do just that:
Include your dog in family activities, and play with him.
Small games like "catch the popcorn" and "find the treat" take very little human effort and provide fun and mental stimulation.
Modify activities your old guy is no longer able to accomplish so he can do them. For example, throw the ball so it lands closer to you and make sure he sees it before letting him go for it. Help him in and out of the car.
Many dogs have self-appointed tasks: Encourage them to keep at their jobs! Being needed keeps a dog happy.
Learning something new keeps dogs happy, too. It's a mutually beneficial activity. Both human and animal brains get a workout, and your connection to your dog gets even better.
Supplements abound for older dogs and cats. They may prove to be of great benefit, but more to the point is good food and good exercise. Studies have shown supplements like glucosamine and chondroitin to be of use in joint issues. Still, the need for many of these supplements is minimized once an animal is eating real food and getting enough exercise to make use of it.
If you do use supplements, look for those made with whole foods. We consider a wide range of oils (fish and cod liver oil available from Dr. Mercola's Web site) to be necessary ingredients of a good diet. And we consider them an essential food, not an isolated ingredient or supplement.
Read the book, See Spot Live Longer, for more details on commercial diets and adding real food to your dog's diet. If your dog has a specific condition, we suggest you consult with a veterinarian who is experienced with fresh food diets to fine-tune the diet to your dog's needs.
Get them moving, feed them well and engage their brains and you'll find a dog that is more interested in life and feels much better. We've spent a long time perfecting our relationships with our old dogs. Let's keep them as long as we can.
Our dogs have many of the same needs we do. To be at their best, they need real, fresh food in the balance that's best for their individual needs. For dogs, real food in its natural balance means meat and vegetables. Yet, all too frequently, we are advised to feed our dogs senior food, often for dogs starting as young as 6-years-old.
Veterinarians started recommending senior food years ago, when research seemed to show that dogs (and humans) with kidney problems would do better on a reduced protein diet. So, the reasoning went, we could avoid kidney failure by feeding a reduced protein diet as dogs aged.
This has not proved to be true for dogs or humans, and the big pet food companies agree. 1-4
Senior foods are higher in grain than adult foods, which will cause their bodies to increase their production of insulin and inflammatory chemicals. These foods are designed to be lower in fat and protein, with increased fiber. However, older dogs need better protein and more of it. 5 In our opinion, senior and light diets are detrimental to the health of older dogs.
If Sparky could talk, he'd tell you it's true. When we met Sparky, he was a 9-year-old stout Brittany Spaniel that was not feeling very well. His family switched from senior dry food to a fresh frozen diet as an experiment to see if a lower carbohydrate diet would help him lose weight.
In four months, he had lost about 10 pounds, and the following health issues were resolved:
Flaky coat
Itchy skin
Frequent bladder infections
Multiple aches and pains
Most of the tartar on his teeth
Read More About the Top-Recommended Healthy and Natural Treat for Dogs Now!
Today, Sparky has plenty of energy and no longer qualifies as an old dog.
Why? A species-appropriate diet, based on meat and vegetables, provides the protein, fat, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants needed to keep the immune system and the brain working well. Good fats keep inflammation in check and hormonal systems functioning properly.
Delaying Old Age
In a 14-year study that compared two groups of Labradors (one group free-fed and the other kept lean), lean dogs lived two years longer, and the muscle wasting associated with old age was delayed by two years compared to the group allowed to become overweight.
In addition, lean dogs did not develop arthritis until many years after the overweight dogs that began to show arthritic changes at age 2. 6 Even if your dog has not been kept lean, you may see most of these benefits when you help your dog shed those extra pounds with a meat and vegetable-based diet. It's never too late!
Those with achy and overweight dogs will be amazed to see the difference in how their dogs feel and act when they are fed meat- and vegetable-based diets. We have often seen the health of dogs transformed by a change of diet.
Dogs with common chronic medical conditions need the supervision of a veterinarian who is skilled with fresh food diets to supervise and fine-tune a fresh food diet. Almost all chronic conditions (diabetes, arthritis, irritable bowel disease and irritable bowel syndrome, liver and kidney problems, dental disease) will improve on a home-prepared diet designed to support the specific issue.
Learning New Tricks
Good food keeps dogs lean, but they also need exercise. If our older animals are not fit, the best diet in the world won't keep them with us.
At your spring veterinary wellness checkup, find out what level of activity your veterinarian thinks is suitable for your animals to start with, and add from there. Many conditions we have discounted as "just old age" diminish or disappear with good exercise.
Digestion improves, elimination becomes more regular, animals are less achy and their brains work better. Getting more oxygen circulating builds lungs and heart and improves overall muscle tone and general health immensely. Brisk walking is a great start, but dogs need to get moving enough to get out of breath as well.
For smaller dogs, this is easy to accomplish. Very out-of-shape dogs will get winded pretty quickly, too, but as their fitness increases, those with big dogs will need to find ways to get them really moving.
In our experience, we've also found dogs often fade away from simple boredom. With an improved diet, they are likely to feel more like being active, but they need mental stimulation as well. The following are some simple games you can play with them to do just that:
Include your dog in family activities, and play with him.
Small games like "catch the popcorn" and "find the treat" take very little human effort and provide fun and mental stimulation.
Modify activities your old guy is no longer able to accomplish so he can do them. For example, throw the ball so it lands closer to you and make sure he sees it before letting him go for it. Help him in and out of the car.
Many dogs have self-appointed tasks: Encourage them to keep at their jobs! Being needed keeps a dog happy.
Learning something new keeps dogs happy, too. It's a mutually beneficial activity. Both human and animal brains get a workout, and your connection to your dog gets even better.
Supplements abound for older dogs and cats. They may prove to be of great benefit, but more to the point is good food and good exercise. Studies have shown supplements like glucosamine and chondroitin to be of use in joint issues. Still, the need for many of these supplements is minimized once an animal is eating real food and getting enough exercise to make use of it.
If you do use supplements, look for those made with whole foods. We consider a wide range of oils (fish and cod liver oil available from Dr. Mercola's Web site) to be necessary ingredients of a good diet. And we consider them an essential food, not an isolated ingredient or supplement.
Read the book, See Spot Live Longer, for more details on commercial diets and adding real food to your dog's diet. If your dog has a specific condition, we suggest you consult with a veterinarian who is experienced with fresh food diets to fine-tune the diet to your dog's needs.
Get them moving, feed them well and engage their brains and you'll find a dog that is more interested in life and feels much better. We've spent a long time perfecting our relationships with our old dogs. Let's keep them as long as we can.
Brazil Nuts Can Help Your Dog Live Longer
By Steve Brown and Beth Taylor
Human nutrition and lifestyle studies prove there are ways to improve the odds that we will live long, healthy lives. It's simple: Eat a variety of fresh, minimally-processed foods, especially fruits and vegetables; stay lean; exercise often; and avoid toxins. Good nutrition is key. Dietary habits may be instrumental in about 60% of cancers in women and about 40% in men.1
Good diets are just as important for dogs. Unfortunately, many of our dogs are eating diets composed exclusively of highly processed, grain-based foods with synthetic vitamins and minerals. Even the best of the "healthy" dry foods fall into this category. No wonder one in three dogs will die of cancer!
In our book, See Spot Live Longer, we discuss many easy things you can do to help your dog live longer. One easy step we can take is to add crushed Brazil nuts, a source of natural forms of selenium, to our dogs' food.
Selenium is an essential trace mineral of fundamental importance to human and canine health. Adequate selenium is necessary for the normal functioning of the immune system and thyroid gland. Selenium is receiving considerable attention for its possible role as an effective naturally occurring anti-carcinogenic agent.
Recently, the American Association for Cancer Research reported than high selenium consumption may protect humans from bladder cancer.2 Animal studies have shown a beneficial effect of high selenium levels in the prevention of cancer.3 The form of the selenium is important: Natural, food-derived forms of selenium may have beneficial effects not shared by human-synthesized selenium compounds.4
Dogs evolved consuming two organic forms of selenium: selenomethionine (an essential amino acid found primarily in plants) and selenocysteine (an amino acid found mostly in organ meats). Most dry and canned dog foods today use an inorganic type of selenium, sodium selenite or sodium selenate. These forms of selenium are considered toxic by the National Toxicology Program of the US Department of Health and Human Services.5
The body reacts differently to the selenium in food as compared to food supplemented with sodium selenite. A 2003 study in The Journal of Nutrition stated that "the absorption, distribution, and excretion of selenium in food were ... distinctly different from sodium selenite."6 Natural forms of selenium are superior to human synthesized forms. Dr. John W Finley, supervisor of the Trace Element Absorption and Bioavailability Laboratory and the Grand Forks Human Nutrition Research Center, and one of the leading researchers on selenium stated:
"Something in the whole foods must boost selenium's anticancer property," and "These results are further evidence that broccoli may be an especially good source of selenium, and nutrition professionals may be wise to take this info into account when giving nutritional advice."7
Is selenium deficiency a contributing factor to canine hip dysplasia?
Insufficient selenium intake can cause serious health problems, including Kashin-Beck disease, which is characterized by the degeneration of the articular cartilage between joints8, thyroid disease and a variety of cancers. We've read unpublished, yet well researched, reports linking selenium deficiency with hip dysplasia.9 There is a wealth of data about farm animals which shows organic forms of selenium (selenomethionine) outperform sodium selenite. One of the reasons for this is that natural forms of selenium can be stored in the body for later use, while selenite cannot.10
Perhaps some dogs are not able to sufficiently use the inorganic forms of selenium found in most dry dog foods. Therefore if a bitch were unable to fully utilize sodium selenite, her puppies would be more likely to have joint problems. Pottenger's classic study with cats shows that problems due to nutrient deficiency get worse with each generation.11 Is the source of the selenium used in most dry dog foods one of the reasons many dogs, purebred and mixed-breed, have hip problems? It may be one of the nutritional causes.
It's easy to correct this situation. Whether you're feeding dry, canned, or the best frozen raw diets, you can easily ensure that your dog is getting enough selenium by adding Brazil nuts. The selenium in broccoli and other vegetables will vary according to the amount of selenium in the soils. Brazil nuts, on the other hand, are a reliable source of selenium. Of course, the fresher the nut, the better. In our home tests with our dogs, freshly shelled Brazil nuts won over shelled nuts bought at natural food markets, in both flavor and fragrance.
We recommend that people add one-half of a crushed Brazil nut per day for every 50 pounds your dog weighs. Since natural forms of selenium are stored in the body, you can easily add one crushed nut every other day, or, for toy dogs, ten pounds or less, one crushed nut per week is great! Please remember, feed all foods in moderation. A meal of just Brazil nuts is not healthy for any dog or any human.
May your Spot live a long, healthy life.
References
Milner, John A. "Nonnutritive Components in Foods as Modifiers on of the Cancer Process" Preventive Nutrition: The Comprehensive Guide for Health Professionals, 2nd edition, p 131. 2001.
Mary E. Reid, Anna J. Duffield-Lillico, Linda Garland, Bruce W. Turnbull, Larry C. Clark, and James R. Marshall, "Selenium Supplementation and Lung Cancer Incidence: An Update of the Nutritional Prevention of Cancer Trial," Cancer Epidemiology Biomarkers & Prevention. November 2002; 11.
Patrick, Lyn, Selenium Biochemistry and Cancer; A Review of the Literature," Alternative Medicine Review, Volume 9, Number 3, 2004. 239 -- 258.
Schrauzer, G.N. "Selenomethionine: A Review of its Nutritional Significance, Metabolism and Toxicity," Journal of Nutrition, 130, 2000. 1653-1656
National Toxicology Program, http://ntp-server.niehs.nih.gov/ htdocs/ST-studies/TOX038.html
Hawkes, Alkan, and Oehler "Absorption, Distribution and Excretion of Selenium from Beef and Rice in Healthy North American Men," Jounral of Nutrition, November 2003. 3434.
Finley, J.W., Ip, C., Lisk, D.J., Davis, C.D., Hintze, K.J. and Whanger, "Cancer-protective properties of high-selenium broccoli" J Agricultural and Food Chemistry, Vol. 49, #5, 2679-2683, 2001.
Burk, R.F. & Levander, O.A. "Selenium," in Shils, M. et al. Eds. Nutrition in Health and Disease, 9th Edition. Baltimore: Williams & Wilkins, 1999. 265-276.
Parker, Jay, "Hip Dysplasia in Dogs: Why Seleniuim Deficiency Will Cause It." Unpublished manuscript.
Schrauzer, G.N. "Selenomethionine: A Review of its Nutritional Significance, Metabolism and Toxicity," Journal of Nutrition, 130, 2000. 1653-1656.
Pottenger, Francis. Pottenger's Cats A Study in Nutrition 1983. Dr. Pottenger compared four generations of cats fed cooked and four generations of cats fed the same diet, except raw. With the cooked diet, Dr. Pottenger found that each generation developed health problems at earlier ages than the preceding generation. The raw fed cats remained healthy. We now know that the cooked diets were deficient in taurine and thiamin.
Human nutrition and lifestyle studies prove there are ways to improve the odds that we will live long, healthy lives. It's simple: Eat a variety of fresh, minimally-processed foods, especially fruits and vegetables; stay lean; exercise often; and avoid toxins. Good nutrition is key. Dietary habits may be instrumental in about 60% of cancers in women and about 40% in men.1
Good diets are just as important for dogs. Unfortunately, many of our dogs are eating diets composed exclusively of highly processed, grain-based foods with synthetic vitamins and minerals. Even the best of the "healthy" dry foods fall into this category. No wonder one in three dogs will die of cancer!
In our book, See Spot Live Longer, we discuss many easy things you can do to help your dog live longer. One easy step we can take is to add crushed Brazil nuts, a source of natural forms of selenium, to our dogs' food.
Selenium is an essential trace mineral of fundamental importance to human and canine health. Adequate selenium is necessary for the normal functioning of the immune system and thyroid gland. Selenium is receiving considerable attention for its possible role as an effective naturally occurring anti-carcinogenic agent.
Recently, the American Association for Cancer Research reported than high selenium consumption may protect humans from bladder cancer.2 Animal studies have shown a beneficial effect of high selenium levels in the prevention of cancer.3 The form of the selenium is important: Natural, food-derived forms of selenium may have beneficial effects not shared by human-synthesized selenium compounds.4
Dogs evolved consuming two organic forms of selenium: selenomethionine (an essential amino acid found primarily in plants) and selenocysteine (an amino acid found mostly in organ meats). Most dry and canned dog foods today use an inorganic type of selenium, sodium selenite or sodium selenate. These forms of selenium are considered toxic by the National Toxicology Program of the US Department of Health and Human Services.5
The body reacts differently to the selenium in food as compared to food supplemented with sodium selenite. A 2003 study in The Journal of Nutrition stated that "the absorption, distribution, and excretion of selenium in food were ... distinctly different from sodium selenite."6 Natural forms of selenium are superior to human synthesized forms. Dr. John W Finley, supervisor of the Trace Element Absorption and Bioavailability Laboratory and the Grand Forks Human Nutrition Research Center, and one of the leading researchers on selenium stated:
"Something in the whole foods must boost selenium's anticancer property," and "These results are further evidence that broccoli may be an especially good source of selenium, and nutrition professionals may be wise to take this info into account when giving nutritional advice."7
Is selenium deficiency a contributing factor to canine hip dysplasia?
Insufficient selenium intake can cause serious health problems, including Kashin-Beck disease, which is characterized by the degeneration of the articular cartilage between joints8, thyroid disease and a variety of cancers. We've read unpublished, yet well researched, reports linking selenium deficiency with hip dysplasia.9 There is a wealth of data about farm animals which shows organic forms of selenium (selenomethionine) outperform sodium selenite. One of the reasons for this is that natural forms of selenium can be stored in the body for later use, while selenite cannot.10
Perhaps some dogs are not able to sufficiently use the inorganic forms of selenium found in most dry dog foods. Therefore if a bitch were unable to fully utilize sodium selenite, her puppies would be more likely to have joint problems. Pottenger's classic study with cats shows that problems due to nutrient deficiency get worse with each generation.11 Is the source of the selenium used in most dry dog foods one of the reasons many dogs, purebred and mixed-breed, have hip problems? It may be one of the nutritional causes.
It's easy to correct this situation. Whether you're feeding dry, canned, or the best frozen raw diets, you can easily ensure that your dog is getting enough selenium by adding Brazil nuts. The selenium in broccoli and other vegetables will vary according to the amount of selenium in the soils. Brazil nuts, on the other hand, are a reliable source of selenium. Of course, the fresher the nut, the better. In our home tests with our dogs, freshly shelled Brazil nuts won over shelled nuts bought at natural food markets, in both flavor and fragrance.
We recommend that people add one-half of a crushed Brazil nut per day for every 50 pounds your dog weighs. Since natural forms of selenium are stored in the body, you can easily add one crushed nut every other day, or, for toy dogs, ten pounds or less, one crushed nut per week is great! Please remember, feed all foods in moderation. A meal of just Brazil nuts is not healthy for any dog or any human.
May your Spot live a long, healthy life.
References
Milner, John A. "Nonnutritive Components in Foods as Modifiers on of the Cancer Process" Preventive Nutrition: The Comprehensive Guide for Health Professionals, 2nd edition, p 131. 2001.
Mary E. Reid, Anna J. Duffield-Lillico, Linda Garland, Bruce W. Turnbull, Larry C. Clark, and James R. Marshall, "Selenium Supplementation and Lung Cancer Incidence: An Update of the Nutritional Prevention of Cancer Trial," Cancer Epidemiology Biomarkers & Prevention. November 2002; 11.
Patrick, Lyn, Selenium Biochemistry and Cancer; A Review of the Literature," Alternative Medicine Review, Volume 9, Number 3, 2004. 239 -- 258.
Schrauzer, G.N. "Selenomethionine: A Review of its Nutritional Significance, Metabolism and Toxicity," Journal of Nutrition, 130, 2000. 1653-1656
National Toxicology Program, http://ntp-server.niehs.nih.gov/ htdocs/ST-studies/TOX038.html
Hawkes, Alkan, and Oehler "Absorption, Distribution and Excretion of Selenium from Beef and Rice in Healthy North American Men," Jounral of Nutrition, November 2003. 3434.
Finley, J.W., Ip, C., Lisk, D.J., Davis, C.D., Hintze, K.J. and Whanger, "Cancer-protective properties of high-selenium broccoli" J Agricultural and Food Chemistry, Vol. 49, #5, 2679-2683, 2001.
Burk, R.F. & Levander, O.A. "Selenium," in Shils, M. et al. Eds. Nutrition in Health and Disease, 9th Edition. Baltimore: Williams & Wilkins, 1999. 265-276.
Parker, Jay, "Hip Dysplasia in Dogs: Why Seleniuim Deficiency Will Cause It." Unpublished manuscript.
Schrauzer, G.N. "Selenomethionine: A Review of its Nutritional Significance, Metabolism and Toxicity," Journal of Nutrition, 130, 2000. 1653-1656.
Pottenger, Francis. Pottenger's Cats A Study in Nutrition 1983. Dr. Pottenger compared four generations of cats fed cooked and four generations of cats fed the same diet, except raw. With the cooked diet, Dr. Pottenger found that each generation developed health problems at earlier ages than the preceding generation. The raw fed cats remained healthy. We now know that the cooked diets were deficient in taurine and thiamin.
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
How To Groom A Schnauzer
I use the Oster Turbo with 2 speeds and a #10 blade for the back and face. The legs are scissor trimmed. I also store my blade in the blade wash. Use could use a can of blade cool to cool the blades down during use.
**I don't recommend pulling the hair out of the ears though. You can use blunt tip scissors.
Videos:
Monday, November 24, 2008
*~*~*Paris Hilton at My Grandma's*~*~
Grandma, Paris and Megan
Paris and me!
My wonderful grandmother bred a couple of awesome litters of Chihuahuas. Paris Hilton was in Austin shooting a movie, came to Taylor and purchased her Chihuahua from my grandmother. The great part was that my grandmother had no clue who the heck she was. Paris treated my grandmother with the greatest respect, just like she was her own. She stayed and visited for a hour with us. That was a big day in Taylor, even made the little newspaper here.
Sunday, September 21, 2008
*~Annual Dog Vaccines May Not be Necessary *~
Since the 1970s, the professor and chair of pathobiological sciences at the University of Wisconsin-Madison School of Veterinary Medicine has been studying canine vaccines and has found that dogs are being over-vaccinated.
As a result, a group of canine vaccine experts has developed new veterinary guidelines that may eliminate the need to give annual shots to dogs.
Dogs receive up to 16 different vaccines each year, often combined into one shot. While four of the vaccines protect against serious diseases like rabies, canine parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2), canine distemper virus (CDV) and canine adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2), the others protect against much milder diseases that a dog may or may not be exposed to, such as Lyme disease.
However, over-vaccination can result in side effects such as skin problems, allergic reactions and autoimmune disease. Moreover, tumors have been found at the site of vaccine injections in cats, though not dogs.
The adverse reactions caused by vaccines have caused many veterinarians to rethink the issue of vaccination.
Evidence suggests that like humans, dogs could be vaccinated with certain vaccines early in life and be protected for a lifetime, rather than receiving yearly doses.
Reportedly, with the exception of rabies, the core vaccines, which protect against life-threatening disease, could last for seven years and should not be given more frequently than every three years. Rabies shots have a three-year duration, according to research, and should be given every three years.
In terms of the non-core vaccines, many have a shorter duration and last about one year. But according to researchers not every dog should get these vaccines because only some dogs are at risk of exposure. These vaccines, such as the shot for Lyme disease, can cause adverse effects and should only be given if the dog is at significant risk, as is the case with all vaccines.
Many veterinarians rely on annual vaccines to bring in income, so the revised recommendations may create controversy. However, researchers note that annual visits are important for other reasons such as checking for heart worm and tumors. A recently developed test can be used to check dogs’ immunity against certain diseases rather than vaccinating them each year.
Additionally, researchers say that veterinarians who have switched to three-year vaccinations, as opposed to annual vaccinations, have not had seen an increase in dogs with diseases that could be prevented by vaccines. Further, giving an animal a vaccine that's not needed creates an unnecessary risk to the animal.
Journal American Animal Hospital Association March-April 2003;39(2):119-31
from www.Mercola.com
***My two cents worth. I am a firm believer in the first series of vaccinations given at 6,9 and 12 weeks. After that it is questionable. Your vet can actually run a titer to check immunity levels before giving the series. Some vets won't do it because it is too much trouble. I think the less live virus we put into their bodies the less trouble they will have in the long run. Bordetella vaccination that is required before kenneling is one that my vet opts out on. When Holly started Triple Crown for training and they required it, he just filled out paperwork like she he had it. He said the chance of her getting it would be 1 in 5,000 and with simple Erythromycin tabs it is treatable. So he does not believe in it. But again, you have to find a vet that is willing to practice in a more holistic manner.Talk with you vet and see if you can do titers before vaccinating.
As a result, a group of canine vaccine experts has developed new veterinary guidelines that may eliminate the need to give annual shots to dogs.
Dogs receive up to 16 different vaccines each year, often combined into one shot. While four of the vaccines protect against serious diseases like rabies, canine parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2), canine distemper virus (CDV) and canine adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2), the others protect against much milder diseases that a dog may or may not be exposed to, such as Lyme disease.
However, over-vaccination can result in side effects such as skin problems, allergic reactions and autoimmune disease. Moreover, tumors have been found at the site of vaccine injections in cats, though not dogs.
The adverse reactions caused by vaccines have caused many veterinarians to rethink the issue of vaccination.
Evidence suggests that like humans, dogs could be vaccinated with certain vaccines early in life and be protected for a lifetime, rather than receiving yearly doses.
Reportedly, with the exception of rabies, the core vaccines, which protect against life-threatening disease, could last for seven years and should not be given more frequently than every three years. Rabies shots have a three-year duration, according to research, and should be given every three years.
In terms of the non-core vaccines, many have a shorter duration and last about one year. But according to researchers not every dog should get these vaccines because only some dogs are at risk of exposure. These vaccines, such as the shot for Lyme disease, can cause adverse effects and should only be given if the dog is at significant risk, as is the case with all vaccines.
Many veterinarians rely on annual vaccines to bring in income, so the revised recommendations may create controversy. However, researchers note that annual visits are important for other reasons such as checking for heart worm and tumors. A recently developed test can be used to check dogs’ immunity against certain diseases rather than vaccinating them each year.
Additionally, researchers say that veterinarians who have switched to three-year vaccinations, as opposed to annual vaccinations, have not had seen an increase in dogs with diseases that could be prevented by vaccines. Further, giving an animal a vaccine that's not needed creates an unnecessary risk to the animal.
Journal American Animal Hospital Association March-April 2003;39(2):119-31
from www.Mercola.com
***My two cents worth. I am a firm believer in the first series of vaccinations given at 6,9 and 12 weeks. After that it is questionable. Your vet can actually run a titer to check immunity levels before giving the series. Some vets won't do it because it is too much trouble. I think the less live virus we put into their bodies the less trouble they will have in the long run. Bordetella vaccination that is required before kenneling is one that my vet opts out on. When Holly started Triple Crown for training and they required it, he just filled out paperwork like she he had it. He said the chance of her getting it would be 1 in 5,000 and with simple Erythromycin tabs it is treatable. So he does not believe in it. But again, you have to find a vet that is willing to practice in a more holistic manner.Talk with you vet and see if you can do titers before vaccinating.
Saturday, June 21, 2008
If Your Dog Has Ticks
Here are three steps to follow.
Remove the tick immediately. An infected tick can transmit disease in only a few hours. Wear latex gloves, if possible. Use tweezers to grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible, and pull gently. Clean your hands, the bite area, and the tweezers with disinfectant.
Place the tick in a small container of alcohol. Make note of the date. In case of future illness, tick identification will be important.
Never try to burn, smother, or otherwise get a tick to "back out." Also, do not attempt to remove a tick with your fingers. These methods do not work and can cause the tick to regurgitate more potential pathogens into the dog's skin.
Alternive way from my mom:Here is a simple way that you can get them to back out and that is by using some dish soap in a cotton
boll and laying it over the tick for a couple of minutes and they will back out because they can't breath.
Then they will get caught in the cotton because they
back out into the cotton. walla! Easy way to catch a tick.
Remove the tick immediately. An infected tick can transmit disease in only a few hours. Wear latex gloves, if possible. Use tweezers to grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible, and pull gently. Clean your hands, the bite area, and the tweezers with disinfectant.
Place the tick in a small container of alcohol. Make note of the date. In case of future illness, tick identification will be important.
Never try to burn, smother, or otherwise get a tick to "back out." Also, do not attempt to remove a tick with your fingers. These methods do not work and can cause the tick to regurgitate more potential pathogens into the dog's skin.
Alternive way from my mom:Here is a simple way that you can get them to back out and that is by using some dish soap in a cotton
boll and laying it over the tick for a couple of minutes and they will back out because they can't breath.
Then they will get caught in the cotton because they
back out into the cotton. walla! Easy way to catch a tick.
Friday, June 20, 2008
Pack Mentality
Understanding the Nature of the Pack
Pack leaders don’t project nervousness. They don’t project panic. They don’t project tension.
What’s the same about a dog, an elephant and a horse? These animals all organize behind a leader.
People make a mistake when they treat dogs like humans. Every species has its own psychology. If we understand its psychology, we can control the behavior, because we know how to relate to them.
Newborn puppies need to find a place or status within the pack. They don’t get a name like we do, because personality is something humans create and only exists in our world. In the animal world, there are two positions: the leader and the follower. Dogs are simple; we make their lives complicated by misunderstanding what they need as a species.
Dog Speak
Dogs communicate through constant energy. The pack leader always projects a calm-assertive energy. Energy is what I call beingness: who and what you are being at every moment. (If you don’t know what I mean by calm-assertive energy, think about Oprah Winfrey. She is calm and assertive in the human world.) Pack leaders don’t project nervousness. They don’t project panic. They don’t project tension.
Simply put: the pack leader is a calm-assertive presence that provides balance to the pack. It’s also not about gender; a female or a male can become pack leader. Pack leaders control everything; nothing is open to debate.
Two Worlds Collide
When dogs come into our homes, they meet emotional energy for the first time. We shower them with affection, and they see us as excited energy. This is why dogs don’t listen to humans. Their mothers never acted this way. Where did the calm-assertive leadership go?
We often develop a different agenda for our dogs. We want to make puppies our babies. When people see a nervous or shy dog, they console her like they would another human.
In the animal world, this nurtures instability, something a pack would never do. From day one, the human fulfills himself and forgets about what’s important to the dog.
In the absence of a one hundred percent leader, the dog, even a submissive one, will seek to fill what they see as a vacant role. The dog will ignore the owner or act out in other ways. This is the beginning of giving control to the dog.
One of the most important things you can remember is that dogs are animals. If we don’t fulfill them as a species, they won’t live a balanced, centered life. Understanding and projecting a pack leader’s calm-assertive energy will create a positive and lasting connection with your dog.
from Cesar Millan website
Pack leaders don’t project nervousness. They don’t project panic. They don’t project tension.
What’s the same about a dog, an elephant and a horse? These animals all organize behind a leader.
People make a mistake when they treat dogs like humans. Every species has its own psychology. If we understand its psychology, we can control the behavior, because we know how to relate to them.
Newborn puppies need to find a place or status within the pack. They don’t get a name like we do, because personality is something humans create and only exists in our world. In the animal world, there are two positions: the leader and the follower. Dogs are simple; we make their lives complicated by misunderstanding what they need as a species.
Dog Speak
Dogs communicate through constant energy. The pack leader always projects a calm-assertive energy. Energy is what I call beingness: who and what you are being at every moment. (If you don’t know what I mean by calm-assertive energy, think about Oprah Winfrey. She is calm and assertive in the human world.) Pack leaders don’t project nervousness. They don’t project panic. They don’t project tension.
Simply put: the pack leader is a calm-assertive presence that provides balance to the pack. It’s also not about gender; a female or a male can become pack leader. Pack leaders control everything; nothing is open to debate.
Two Worlds Collide
When dogs come into our homes, they meet emotional energy for the first time. We shower them with affection, and they see us as excited energy. This is why dogs don’t listen to humans. Their mothers never acted this way. Where did the calm-assertive leadership go?
We often develop a different agenda for our dogs. We want to make puppies our babies. When people see a nervous or shy dog, they console her like they would another human.
In the animal world, this nurtures instability, something a pack would never do. From day one, the human fulfills himself and forgets about what’s important to the dog.
In the absence of a one hundred percent leader, the dog, even a submissive one, will seek to fill what they see as a vacant role. The dog will ignore the owner or act out in other ways. This is the beginning of giving control to the dog.
One of the most important things you can remember is that dogs are animals. If we don’t fulfill them as a species, they won’t live a balanced, centered life. Understanding and projecting a pack leader’s calm-assertive energy will create a positive and lasting connection with your dog.
from Cesar Millan website
Thursday, June 19, 2008
***Dog Days Of Summer Safety Tips***
With these hot summer days we all need reminders about the heat and our fur children. Please visit www.akc.org/news/index.cfm?article_id=2958
Sunday, March 16, 2008
*~*To Dock Tails or Not*~*~
This is my most favorite video in the world. These little happy schnauzers live in Australia. I wrote the guy and he was kind enough to reply.
"Hi Donna, it is now illegal to doc tails in Australia, as it is to crop ears,some breeders are still trying to do it, but the fines are heavy and it is being administered by the RSPCA but we have kept tails now for 15 years."
See this:
http://www.dogtrainingireland.ie/documents/why_taildocking_should_be_prohibited.pdf
We at SOT are very happy to leave a tail on your new baby. You must have first pick on our waitlist and full payment is required for puppy at 3 days of age. You also will need to pick your puppy on day 3 of age. Please keep in mind that we can not evaluate personalities that may best match your family when we do this. Please know that our past pups that have had tails left and been perfect fits into their new families.
Thursday, January 24, 2008
*~*Jackson Family*~*
We were very proud to of placed our puppy in the Jackson family in CA. They named him "Jackson". Jackson is owned by Alejandra, Genevieve, Jermajesty, Jaafar and Randy. They are the nephews and neices of Michael Jackson.
Cocoa Mulch and Foxtails
Please read about Sugar Free Gum:
http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/xylitol.asp
****************************
Cocoa Mulch*~*~Beware
True information about the mulch can be found here - http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/cocoa.htm
This site gives the following information:
Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot, Foreman's Garden Supply and other Garden supply stores, contains a lethal ingredient called 'Theobromine'.
It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and die. Several deaths already occurred in the last 2-3 weeks. Just a word of caution: check what you are using in your gardens and be aware of what your gardeners are using in your gardens.
Theobromine is the ingredient that is used to make all chocolate especially dark or baker's chocolate which is toxic to dogs.
Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of theobromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline. A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.
**thanks to Christy for the heads up
****************************
*~After dry spring, foxtails making animals miserable
You can read this story in its entirety on the web at:http://www.sacbee.com/101/story/1064154.html
**thanks Debbi
http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/xylitol.asp
****************************
Cocoa Mulch*~*~Beware
True information about the mulch can be found here - http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/cocoa.htm
This site gives the following information:
Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot, Foreman's Garden Supply and other Garden supply stores, contains a lethal ingredient called 'Theobromine'.
It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and die. Several deaths already occurred in the last 2-3 weeks. Just a word of caution: check what you are using in your gardens and be aware of what your gardeners are using in your gardens.
Theobromine is the ingredient that is used to make all chocolate especially dark or baker's chocolate which is toxic to dogs.
Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of theobromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline. A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.
**thanks to Christy for the heads up
****************************
*~After dry spring, foxtails making animals miserable
You can read this story in its entirety on the web at:http://www.sacbee.com/101/story/1064154.html
**thanks Debbi
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Education Info Section
EDUCATION INFO SECTION:
Start out on the right foot by doing all you can to ease your dog’s adjustment to his new family. Here’s the information you need to help make your friend’s stay in his new home safe and enjoyable.
DOG-PROOF YOUR HOME
Whether your new friend is a puppy or adult dog, here are important tips to help keep him out of harm’s way:
Keep household cleaners and chemicals out of his reach.
Restrict access to plants that are dangerous to dogs: poinsettias, azaleas, rhododendrons, dumb cane, Japanese yew, oleander and English ivy.
Store breakable items safely out of the way.
Hide or cover electrical cords so he won’t chew on them.
Safely store antifreeze, engine oil, laundry detergents and lawn chemicals.
Keep kids’ toys off the floor—since some parts may be small enough for your puppy or dog to swallow.
Use a cover and/or protective fencing if you have a pool or hot tub.
CHOOSING A NAME
Here are a few tips to consider before naming your new dog:
Names should be short. A two-syllable name is best because it’s brief and won’t be confused with one-syllable commands such as “No” or “Sit.”
Be consistent. All family members should use the same name—don’t use confusing nicknames or variations.
Reward your dog’s recognition of his name with lots of praise and play.
WELCOME HOME
As the “parent” of a puppy or new adult dog, it’s important for you to help him get used to his new surroundings. Think of him more as an infant than a pet: He’ll need plenty of patience, supervision and love. Here’s how you can help him adjust.
Bring him home when it’s quiet and you don’t have company. Also, choose a time when your routine is normal.
Show him the area of your yard that will be his bathroom before bringing him inside. Then take him there whenever he goes outside.
Give your dog his own room where you can keep his crate, complete with bedding and chew toys (leave the crate’s door open). He’ll feel safe in his “den.” Put down newspaper for accidents. (See pages 14-15 for more housebreaking tips.)
Supervise your puppy at all times, and play with him several times a day. You’ll help establish yourself as the pack leader.
Give him bathroom breaks every few hours and right after eating, drinking, sleeping and playing (watch for signals like sniffing or circling). Never punish your dog for accidents; instead, praise him when he goes in his outdoor spot.
GETTING EXERCISE
An appropriate amount of exercise will help promote your new dog’s good behavior and assist you in training him. Talk with your veterinarian about how much daily exercise your breed typically needs. Some dogs are just naturally more high-energy, and need more exercise than others. Schedule family members to exercise your dog throughout the day. I do not recommend outside walking until all shots have been completed which is 12 weeks of age.
MEETING CHILDREN
You should have no trouble at all encouraging your children to play with your new dog. Still, you’ll want to supervise his first interactions with your kids and set playtime limits—15-20 minutes two or three times a day. Here are still more ground rules to explain:
No rough teasing or playing. Tell your kids that tail-pulling and teasing can lead to bad habits like jumping up.
Be gentle. Tell kids never to shout at the dog, even if he does something wrong. Explain that dogs can be startled by loud noises.
INTRODUCING OTHER PETS
Here’s how to help him meet your resident animals:
Do it gradually. Keep them separated for the first few days.
Keep him safely in his crate (or behind an expandable doorway gate) as you supervise their first meeting.
After several days of sniffing each other out, let your resident pet enter the den while your new dog is out of his crate.
Giving your new dog the appropriate amount of exercise.
Supplies you’ll need
Have these supplies on hand before you bring your dog home with you.
Teething toys
Stainless-steel non-tipping food and water bowls
ID tags with the contact information for yourself and your veterinarian
A size small collar and a 6-foot leather or nylon leash
Wire Crate 24x36 (this is great for when they first get home because the cat pan will fit along with a bed)
Baby Magic Shampoo
Brushes and combs
Cleanup supplies such as a stain remover, paper towels, and deodorizing spray
Washable bed and blankets (I use old towels that I don't mind washing a lot)
Your first veterinarian visit
In addition to providing your new dog optimum nutrition, scheduling regular visits to the veterinarian is key to ensuring his health and
happiness. Here’s how to prepare.
GETTING READY
If you have time, introduce your dog to his new veterinarian by scheduling
an orientation-only visit. Let the veterinarian’s staff pet him and offer treats. If you project a calm, upbeat attitude, your dog will likely remain calm, too. Some experts recommend scheduling these “just dropping in” visits on a regular basis.
THE FIRST APPOINTMENT
At your dog’s first appointment, you’ll be asked basic information, and a staff member may weigh your pet. Keeping track of his weight can help identify problems associated with weight loss or gain.
Then you’ll meet the veterinarian. You’ll be asked about your dog’s diet and lifestyle. Next you’ll get to ask about your dog’s care. Then the veterinarian will examine him and may administer his first vaccinations. Ask about heart worm prevention and flea control products.
THE VACCINATION SCHEDULE
The information you provided will help the veterinarian determine the kinds of diseases your dog may be exposed to and plan an appropriate vaccination schedule.
Schedules vary, but it’s important for puppies to get a series of vaccinations to provide optimal protection against infectious diseases like the ones listed at right. The series is begun as early as 6 weeks old, with boosters given 3 to 4 weeks apart (6 WK, 9 WK AND 12WK) and yearly until they are 12 to 16 years old.
Canine Distemper
Adenovirus-2
Canine Parainfluenza (DA2P)
Canine Parvovirus (CPV)
SPAYING AND NEUTERING
To help your dog live a longer, healthier life (and control pet overpopulation), spaying or neutering is important. Your veterinarian will recommend the appropriate age, generally around 5-6 months.
BATHING YOUR PUPPY
A brushing each week will keep your pup’s coat in good condition, but if he gets really dirty or has acquired an odor, use these steps to bathe your dog:
Step 1: Brush your pup and then gently plug each ear with a cotton ball. Place him in a tub or basin with a nonskid surface. Hold the collar firmly, then pour lukewarm water over his body, being careful to leave his head dry.Cold water will chill your dog and make bathing an unpleasant experience.
Step 2: Use a baby shampoo to soap the body. Work up a lather, talking to your puppy and praising him as you work. When he’s well lathered, move to his head, being careful to keep shampoo out of his eyes, ears and mouth.
Step 3: Rinse and dry the head, then rinse the body. When the water runs clear, rinse one more time. Dry your pup with towels and then remove the cotton plugs from his ears. If your dog has healthy skin, you can dry him further with a hair dryer set on low or warm.
Start out on the right foot by doing all you can to ease your dog’s adjustment to his new family. Here’s the information you need to help make your friend’s stay in his new home safe and enjoyable.
DOG-PROOF YOUR HOME
Whether your new friend is a puppy or adult dog, here are important tips to help keep him out of harm’s way:
Keep household cleaners and chemicals out of his reach.
Restrict access to plants that are dangerous to dogs: poinsettias, azaleas, rhododendrons, dumb cane, Japanese yew, oleander and English ivy.
Store breakable items safely out of the way.
Hide or cover electrical cords so he won’t chew on them.
Safely store antifreeze, engine oil, laundry detergents and lawn chemicals.
Keep kids’ toys off the floor—since some parts may be small enough for your puppy or dog to swallow.
Use a cover and/or protective fencing if you have a pool or hot tub.
CHOOSING A NAME
Here are a few tips to consider before naming your new dog:
Names should be short. A two-syllable name is best because it’s brief and won’t be confused with one-syllable commands such as “No” or “Sit.”
Be consistent. All family members should use the same name—don’t use confusing nicknames or variations.
Reward your dog’s recognition of his name with lots of praise and play.
WELCOME HOME
As the “parent” of a puppy or new adult dog, it’s important for you to help him get used to his new surroundings. Think of him more as an infant than a pet: He’ll need plenty of patience, supervision and love. Here’s how you can help him adjust.
Bring him home when it’s quiet and you don’t have company. Also, choose a time when your routine is normal.
Show him the area of your yard that will be his bathroom before bringing him inside. Then take him there whenever he goes outside.
Give your dog his own room where you can keep his crate, complete with bedding and chew toys (leave the crate’s door open). He’ll feel safe in his “den.” Put down newspaper for accidents. (See pages 14-15 for more housebreaking tips.)
Supervise your puppy at all times, and play with him several times a day. You’ll help establish yourself as the pack leader.
Give him bathroom breaks every few hours and right after eating, drinking, sleeping and playing (watch for signals like sniffing or circling). Never punish your dog for accidents; instead, praise him when he goes in his outdoor spot.
GETTING EXERCISE
An appropriate amount of exercise will help promote your new dog’s good behavior and assist you in training him. Talk with your veterinarian about how much daily exercise your breed typically needs. Some dogs are just naturally more high-energy, and need more exercise than others. Schedule family members to exercise your dog throughout the day. I do not recommend outside walking until all shots have been completed which is 12 weeks of age.
MEETING CHILDREN
You should have no trouble at all encouraging your children to play with your new dog. Still, you’ll want to supervise his first interactions with your kids and set playtime limits—15-20 minutes two or three times a day. Here are still more ground rules to explain:
No rough teasing or playing. Tell your kids that tail-pulling and teasing can lead to bad habits like jumping up.
Be gentle. Tell kids never to shout at the dog, even if he does something wrong. Explain that dogs can be startled by loud noises.
INTRODUCING OTHER PETS
Here’s how to help him meet your resident animals:
Do it gradually. Keep them separated for the first few days.
Keep him safely in his crate (or behind an expandable doorway gate) as you supervise their first meeting.
After several days of sniffing each other out, let your resident pet enter the den while your new dog is out of his crate.
Giving your new dog the appropriate amount of exercise.
Supplies you’ll need
Have these supplies on hand before you bring your dog home with you.
Teething toys
Stainless-steel non-tipping food and water bowls
ID tags with the contact information for yourself and your veterinarian
A size small collar and a 6-foot leather or nylon leash
Wire Crate 24x36 (this is great for when they first get home because the cat pan will fit along with a bed)
Baby Magic Shampoo
Brushes and combs
Cleanup supplies such as a stain remover, paper towels, and deodorizing spray
Washable bed and blankets (I use old towels that I don't mind washing a lot)
Your first veterinarian visit
In addition to providing your new dog optimum nutrition, scheduling regular visits to the veterinarian is key to ensuring his health and
happiness. Here’s how to prepare.
GETTING READY
If you have time, introduce your dog to his new veterinarian by scheduling
an orientation-only visit. Let the veterinarian’s staff pet him and offer treats. If you project a calm, upbeat attitude, your dog will likely remain calm, too. Some experts recommend scheduling these “just dropping in” visits on a regular basis.
THE FIRST APPOINTMENT
At your dog’s first appointment, you’ll be asked basic information, and a staff member may weigh your pet. Keeping track of his weight can help identify problems associated with weight loss or gain.
Then you’ll meet the veterinarian. You’ll be asked about your dog’s diet and lifestyle. Next you’ll get to ask about your dog’s care. Then the veterinarian will examine him and may administer his first vaccinations. Ask about heart worm prevention and flea control products.
THE VACCINATION SCHEDULE
The information you provided will help the veterinarian determine the kinds of diseases your dog may be exposed to and plan an appropriate vaccination schedule.
Schedules vary, but it’s important for puppies to get a series of vaccinations to provide optimal protection against infectious diseases like the ones listed at right. The series is begun as early as 6 weeks old, with boosters given 3 to 4 weeks apart (6 WK, 9 WK AND 12WK) and yearly until they are 12 to 16 years old.
Canine Distemper
Adenovirus-2
Canine Parainfluenza (DA2P)
Canine Parvovirus (CPV)
SPAYING AND NEUTERING
To help your dog live a longer, healthier life (and control pet overpopulation), spaying or neutering is important. Your veterinarian will recommend the appropriate age, generally around 5-6 months.
BATHING YOUR PUPPY
A brushing each week will keep your pup’s coat in good condition, but if he gets really dirty or has acquired an odor, use these steps to bathe your dog:
Step 1: Brush your pup and then gently plug each ear with a cotton ball. Place him in a tub or basin with a nonskid surface. Hold the collar firmly, then pour lukewarm water over his body, being careful to leave his head dry.Cold water will chill your dog and make bathing an unpleasant experience.
Step 2: Use a baby shampoo to soap the body. Work up a lather, talking to your puppy and praising him as you work. When he’s well lathered, move to his head, being careful to keep shampoo out of his eyes, ears and mouth.
Step 3: Rinse and dry the head, then rinse the body. When the water runs clear, rinse one more time. Dry your pup with towels and then remove the cotton plugs from his ears. If your dog has healthy skin, you can dry him further with a hair dryer set on low or warm.
Monday, December 24, 2007
***Create a Pet-Safe Home*****
When safeguarding your house, it's easy to forget about the family pet. Ana T. Pieruccetti crawls on all fours in any rooms she designates for critters. "When I analyze a home, I need to be curious like animals are," says Pieruccetti, owner of Lucca Bella dog spa in Dallas. Kitchens and bathrooms — high-traffic areas for animals — contain chemicals that can be dangerous. Secure all liquids in cabinets with childproof locks. Countertops and hot stoves are an easy reach for gravity-defying felines. The lazy dog's favorite toilet "water bowls" can sicken a pet no matter how clean you think your bathroom is.
If your animals are your favorite office mates, make your home office pet-friendly. Job number one is to secure electrical cords. You can wrap cords in cable snakes or sliced tubing, put them behind bureaus, hide them under carpets or tape them down. Pet supply stores sell bitter-tasting solutions to deter chewing. If your animals spend time in the garage, place any chemicals — especially antifreeze — out of reach. Antifreeze is sweet-tasting to dogs and cats, but less than a teaspoon of the chemical is highly toxic. And use antifreeze with propylene glycol, which is safer for animals if ingested in small amounts and better for the environment.
Your pets can share the holidays with you, but many of the foods that humans love can make animals sick. Foods to watch out for include chocolate, macadamia nuts, onions, raisins, grapes and alcohol. Coffee grounds and cigarette butts are hazards as well. The best bet is to clear plates and empty the sink of leftovers. Place all garbage in cans with secure or locked lids. It's also a good idea to put a skirt around live Christmas trees to prevent your pet from drinking from the tree stand. It's a tempting water bowl, but any chemicals in the tree will leach into the water. Low-hanging Christmas tree ornaments might be seen as toys, but they can break and injure your pet.
Half the fun of new kittens and puppies is watching them explore. Keep an eye out when loading the dryer or dishwasher, or when starting the car (bang on the hood), since cats love warm nooks. Sometimes homemade animal toys, like crumpled aluminum paper, strings, buttons and rawhide chews, can be dangerous; pieces can break off the toy and lodge in an animal's digestive tract. Your best bet is to supervise animals when they're playing with anything. De-icing salts can sicken dogs if they lick it off their paws; wipe post-walk paws with a damp cloth or buy pet-safe de-icers.
If you store clothes under the bed in bags, skip the mothballs, because they're highly toxic to animals. Also, cordon off areas with holes in the walls. Chicken wire is great for blocking hard-to-reach spaces where animals, especially cats, can get stuck or hurt themselves. A number of houseplants can also be dangerous to animals, and you can find detailed listings of poisonous houseplants online. Pieruccetti's list for a good pet first-aid kit includes Biocaine lotion, dog pads, alcohol pads, cold packs, a magnifying glass for removing anything stuck in paws, eyewash and an emergency blanket. If you're uneasy treating your pet, call your vet. Most have 24-hour emergency numbers if you have an injury that can't wait.
If your animals are your favorite office mates, make your home office pet-friendly. Job number one is to secure electrical cords. You can wrap cords in cable snakes or sliced tubing, put them behind bureaus, hide them under carpets or tape them down. Pet supply stores sell bitter-tasting solutions to deter chewing. If your animals spend time in the garage, place any chemicals — especially antifreeze — out of reach. Antifreeze is sweet-tasting to dogs and cats, but less than a teaspoon of the chemical is highly toxic. And use antifreeze with propylene glycol, which is safer for animals if ingested in small amounts and better for the environment.
Your pets can share the holidays with you, but many of the foods that humans love can make animals sick. Foods to watch out for include chocolate, macadamia nuts, onions, raisins, grapes and alcohol. Coffee grounds and cigarette butts are hazards as well. The best bet is to clear plates and empty the sink of leftovers. Place all garbage in cans with secure or locked lids. It's also a good idea to put a skirt around live Christmas trees to prevent your pet from drinking from the tree stand. It's a tempting water bowl, but any chemicals in the tree will leach into the water. Low-hanging Christmas tree ornaments might be seen as toys, but they can break and injure your pet.
Half the fun of new kittens and puppies is watching them explore. Keep an eye out when loading the dryer or dishwasher, or when starting the car (bang on the hood), since cats love warm nooks. Sometimes homemade animal toys, like crumpled aluminum paper, strings, buttons and rawhide chews, can be dangerous; pieces can break off the toy and lodge in an animal's digestive tract. Your best bet is to supervise animals when they're playing with anything. De-icing salts can sicken dogs if they lick it off their paws; wipe post-walk paws with a damp cloth or buy pet-safe de-icers.
If you store clothes under the bed in bags, skip the mothballs, because they're highly toxic to animals. Also, cordon off areas with holes in the walls. Chicken wire is great for blocking hard-to-reach spaces where animals, especially cats, can get stuck or hurt themselves. A number of houseplants can also be dangerous to animals, and you can find detailed listings of poisonous houseplants online. Pieruccetti's list for a good pet first-aid kit includes Biocaine lotion, dog pads, alcohol pads, cold packs, a magnifying glass for removing anything stuck in paws, eyewash and an emergency blanket. If you're uneasy treating your pet, call your vet. Most have 24-hour emergency numbers if you have an injury that can't wait.
Thursday, November 01, 2007
**Poisonous Plant List**
List of Most Poisonous Plants
A
Aconite
Agaric Mushroom
Alacia
Amaryllis bulbs
American Yew Apple (Seeds)
Apricot (Pits and Bark)
Autumn Crocus
Avocado
Azalea Balsam
B
Baneberry root
Bird of Paradise
Black Locust
Bleeding Heart
Blue Flag
Bluebonnet
Blue-green Algae
Boxwood
Bracken Fern
Broomcorn Grass
Buckeye
Buttercup
C
Cabbage
Caffeine
Caladium
Calla Lily
Candelabra Tree
Cardinal Flower
Castor Bean
Chalice Vine
Cherry (Leaves, twigs, seeds, pits)
Chestnut
Chinaberry Tree
Christmas Candle
Clematis
Cowslip
Croton
Crown of Thorns
D
Daffodil
Daphne
Datura
Deadly Amanita
Death Camas
Dumb Cane
E
Eggplant
Elderberry
Elephants Ear
English Ivy
English Yew False F
Ficus
Firethorn
Foxglove
G
Ghostweed
Glory Bean
Ground Cherry
H
Henbane Fly
Honeysuckle
Horsetail
Hyacinth
Hydrangea
I
Indian Licorice
Indian Turnip
Inkberry
Iris
J
Jack-in-Pulpit
Jasmine
Java Bean
Jimsonweed
Juniper
Juniper
L
Lantana
Laurel
Lily of the Valley
Lima bean
Lobelia
Locoweed Lords
Lupines
M
Mandrake
Mango Tree - wood, leaves, rind - (fruit safe)
Marijuana
Marsh Marigold
Mayapple
Meadow
Mescal Beans
Mistletoe
Mock Orange
Monkshood
Moonseed
Morning Glory
Mountain Laurel
Mushrooms N
Narcissus
Nightshade
Nutmeg
O
Oak (Foliage, acorns)
Oleander
Onion
P
Peach (Leaves, twigs, seeds)
Pear seeds
Pencil Tree
Periwinkle
Philodendron
Pigweed
Pine (Needles, twigs, sap)
Pointsetta
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Pokeweed
Potato (eyes, new shoots)
Pyracantha
R
Ranunculus
Red Maple
Rhubarb
Rosary Peas
S
Saffron
Sago Palms
Sandbox Tree
Scarlet
Skunk Cabbage
Snowdrop
Spindle Tree
Sweet Pea - seeds
T
Taro
Thornapple
Tobacco
Tomato All green parts
Trumpet
V
Virginia Bower Coral
Virginia Creeper
W
Water Hemlock
Western Yew
Wisteria
Accidents can happen all the time -- the key is to prevent them.
A
Aconite
Agaric Mushroom
Alacia
Amaryllis bulbs
American Yew Apple (Seeds)
Apricot (Pits and Bark)
Autumn Crocus
Avocado
Azalea Balsam
B
Baneberry root
Bird of Paradise
Black Locust
Bleeding Heart
Blue Flag
Bluebonnet
Blue-green Algae
Boxwood
Bracken Fern
Broomcorn Grass
Buckeye
Buttercup
C
Cabbage
Caffeine
Caladium
Calla Lily
Candelabra Tree
Cardinal Flower
Castor Bean
Chalice Vine
Cherry (Leaves, twigs, seeds, pits)
Chestnut
Chinaberry Tree
Christmas Candle
Clematis
Cowslip
Croton
Crown of Thorns
D
Daffodil
Daphne
Datura
Deadly Amanita
Death Camas
Dumb Cane
E
Eggplant
Elderberry
Elephants Ear
English Ivy
English Yew False F
Ficus
Firethorn
Foxglove
G
Ghostweed
Glory Bean
Ground Cherry
H
Henbane Fly
Honeysuckle
Horsetail
Hyacinth
Hydrangea
I
Indian Licorice
Indian Turnip
Inkberry
Iris
J
Jack-in-Pulpit
Jasmine
Java Bean
Jimsonweed
Juniper
Juniper
L
Lantana
Laurel
Lily of the Valley
Lima bean
Lobelia
Locoweed Lords
Lupines
M
Mandrake
Mango Tree - wood, leaves, rind - (fruit safe)
Marijuana
Marsh Marigold
Mayapple
Meadow
Mescal Beans
Mistletoe
Mock Orange
Monkshood
Moonseed
Morning Glory
Mountain Laurel
Mushrooms N
Narcissus
Nightshade
Nutmeg
O
Oak (Foliage, acorns)
Oleander
Onion
P
Peach (Leaves, twigs, seeds)
Pear seeds
Pencil Tree
Periwinkle
Philodendron
Pigweed
Pine (Needles, twigs, sap)
Pointsetta
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Pokeweed
Potato (eyes, new shoots)
Pyracantha
R
Ranunculus
Red Maple
Rhubarb
Rosary Peas
S
Saffron
Sago Palms
Sandbox Tree
Scarlet
Skunk Cabbage
Snowdrop
Spindle Tree
Sweet Pea - seeds
T
Taro
Thornapple
Tobacco
Tomato All green parts
Trumpet
V
Virginia Bower Coral
Virginia Creeper
W
Water Hemlock
Western Yew
Wisteria
Accidents can happen all the time -- the key is to prevent them.
Sunday, October 21, 2007
***Holiday Doggies***
Holidays are my favorite time of year. This section is for your photos of your favorite holiday doggie.
*****************************************
Judging by these pictures, I think she decided to be a Doggy Superhero for Halloween. Obviously, her super power is to shoot crazy laser beams out of her eyes when we take pictures of her! So have a fun Halloween!
Justin, Chels, and Lucy 10/07
***********************************************
Here is Barbie Princess Coco Chanel. If I can't dress my daughter in pink, I can dress my dog in it.
She is was a hit.
Donna 10/07
************************************************
 |
| Ballernia Lilly Belle Hutchins 10/10 |
*****************************************
Judging by these pictures, I think she decided to be a Doggy Superhero for Halloween. Obviously, her super power is to shoot crazy laser beams out of her eyes when we take pictures of her! So have a fun Halloween!
Justin, Chels, and Lucy 10/07
***********************************************
Here is Barbie Princess Coco Chanel. If I can't dress my daughter in pink, I can dress my dog in it.
She is was a hit.
Donna 10/07
************************************************
Sunday, September 02, 2007
New Puppy? Start Puppy Off Right
For your puppy to grow into a healthy, balanced dog, you must demonstrate leadership from day one.
New puppy owners often make the mistake of endlessly worrying about finding the right puppy treats or bed. They spend little or no time worrying about how or what they will teach their new puppy.
Yes, a puppy needs nutritious food and a safe, warm place to live. But another equally powerful and important biological necessity is the need for a strong pack leader to serve as the dominant source of alpha energy in their lives.
Puppies are naturally hard-wired to follow a pack leader. A pack leader is, by definition, strong, stable and consistent; traits many new puppy owners forget around their dogs. I have had clients who are strong leaders in their jobs, but, when they come home, they turn to mush with their dogs. Then they come to me, puzzled as to why their dog won’t behave.
Puppies sense our confidence levels and will take control if they perceive us as weak. When dogs or puppies take control, bad behaviors, such as excessive barking, leash-pulling, or anxiety, will develop.
The most important thing you can do is to become your puppy’s pack leader. This role doesn’t begin when your dog is six months old or when he’s bad. For your puppy to grow into a healthy, balanced dog, you must demonstrate leadership from day one.
Here are some important points to remember in your role as pack leader:
When getting a new pet, make sure to set aside time every day to provide mental exercise by maintaining rules, boundaries and limitations. When these needs are met, the affection you give to your dog will be channeled as a reward.
Create a schedule that includes a daily 45-minute power-walk in the morning. This is critical for your dog’s health, both physical and mental.
Enlist your whole family in the process of bringing a new dog home. Discuss what their responsibilities will be before the puppy arrives.
Make sure you find a breed that fits your lifestyle. For example, more active breeds, like hunting and herding dogs, require more physical exercise to stay physically and mentally content.
Always walk out the door ahead of your dog when leaving the house. This will show your dog who is in the leadership role.
On walks, make sure that your dog is not in front of you, pulling you down the street. Instead, keep your dog to your side or behind you. This will also demonstrate to your dog that you are the alpha figure.
Give the puppy something to do before you share food, water, toys or affection. This way the dog earns his treat. For example, have your puppy perform the Sit or Down command.
Set aside a budget for unexpected circumstances, like medical bills and training classes. A healthy, well-trained dog makes a wonderful pet.
A puppy will be set up to fail if his new family doesn’t learn these lessons before he arrives. Remember, puppies don’t crave a fancy treat or bed; they need you to become their stable pack leader to demonstrate love in a way they understand.
from Cesar Millan website
New puppy owners often make the mistake of endlessly worrying about finding the right puppy treats or bed. They spend little or no time worrying about how or what they will teach their new puppy.
Yes, a puppy needs nutritious food and a safe, warm place to live. But another equally powerful and important biological necessity is the need for a strong pack leader to serve as the dominant source of alpha energy in their lives.
Puppies are naturally hard-wired to follow a pack leader. A pack leader is, by definition, strong, stable and consistent; traits many new puppy owners forget around their dogs. I have had clients who are strong leaders in their jobs, but, when they come home, they turn to mush with their dogs. Then they come to me, puzzled as to why their dog won’t behave.
Puppies sense our confidence levels and will take control if they perceive us as weak. When dogs or puppies take control, bad behaviors, such as excessive barking, leash-pulling, or anxiety, will develop.
The most important thing you can do is to become your puppy’s pack leader. This role doesn’t begin when your dog is six months old or when he’s bad. For your puppy to grow into a healthy, balanced dog, you must demonstrate leadership from day one.
Here are some important points to remember in your role as pack leader:
When getting a new pet, make sure to set aside time every day to provide mental exercise by maintaining rules, boundaries and limitations. When these needs are met, the affection you give to your dog will be channeled as a reward.
Create a schedule that includes a daily 45-minute power-walk in the morning. This is critical for your dog’s health, both physical and mental.
Enlist your whole family in the process of bringing a new dog home. Discuss what their responsibilities will be before the puppy arrives.
Make sure you find a breed that fits your lifestyle. For example, more active breeds, like hunting and herding dogs, require more physical exercise to stay physically and mentally content.
Always walk out the door ahead of your dog when leaving the house. This will show your dog who is in the leadership role.
On walks, make sure that your dog is not in front of you, pulling you down the street. Instead, keep your dog to your side or behind you. This will also demonstrate to your dog that you are the alpha figure.
Give the puppy something to do before you share food, water, toys or affection. This way the dog earns his treat. For example, have your puppy perform the Sit or Down command.
Set aside a budget for unexpected circumstances, like medical bills and training classes. A healthy, well-trained dog makes a wonderful pet.
A puppy will be set up to fail if his new family doesn’t learn these lessons before he arrives. Remember, puppies don’t crave a fancy treat or bed; they need you to become their stable pack leader to demonstrate love in a way they understand.
from Cesar Millan website
Saturday, September 01, 2007
WHAT TO DO ABOUT THOSE MOUTHY PUPS!
Puppies are naturally biting machines. In a way, this is good because they learn to inhibit their jaw strength to exist with us fragile humans. Most mouthing is reflexive behavior. When a pup is touched, or even approached with a hand, the mouth is the natural means of responding. Puppies can be taught to inhibit this reaction. (It will help if you pet the puppy with long, firm strokes rather than quick pats.) Here are some ideas to help with this ouchy problem.
Grab a paw when your pup starts mouthing you. This distracts him from chewing on you-at which point you can praise him for being such a good dog. (Praising for good behavior is just as important as stopping the bad behavior.) Another idea is to holler “Ouch” in a squeaky voice and immediately leave the pup. After a minute, return and reward your pup’s good behavior by playing with him-immediately leaving if he starts biting again.
Teach your pup the “no-bite” or “stop it” commands. When he nips at you, take him by the jowls and lift his head up so you can look him in the eye for several seconds while you repeat the command. Release and ignore him. After a minute call him to you and praise him when he gets to you.
You can accustom your pup or dog to being grabbed and petted (valuable with children in the family) by giving a treat with one hands while gradually moving the other hand closer, giving a treat each time. Then start from the beginning with the other hand. Increase the speed of arm and hand and the squeeze (grab) of the dog. Another way to accustom the pup to hands moving toward his head or body is to scratch him on the chest or throat with one hand as your other hand moves into his visual field. This teaches the pup to inhibit his bite reflex when people and children grab at him.
If you have tried these methods conscientiously for a week or so with no improvement, you can move on to more negative methods. Try a solution of one part vinegar or Listerine to ten parts water in a spray bottle with a stream. When the puppy bites at your heels, you can squirt him in the mouth and scold in a low, growly voice to stop. Another method of negative reinforcement with a hard-mouthed puppy is to cause the puppy to bite himself. Put your hand under his muzzle and squeeze his lips into his teeth until he gives a squeak of pain. Then ignore the puppy for a minute and then call him over and praise him for doing a good recall.
These suggestions are successful with the normal mouthy puppy. A pup who bites with intent to hurt is an aggressive personality and is a different matter. Most pups, however, will try a nip or two and when they find out it’s not acceptable will stop such behavior.
Videos for help
http://www.perfectpaws.com/pupstuff.html
Grab a paw when your pup starts mouthing you. This distracts him from chewing on you-at which point you can praise him for being such a good dog. (Praising for good behavior is just as important as stopping the bad behavior.) Another idea is to holler “Ouch” in a squeaky voice and immediately leave the pup. After a minute, return and reward your pup’s good behavior by playing with him-immediately leaving if he starts biting again.
Teach your pup the “no-bite” or “stop it” commands. When he nips at you, take him by the jowls and lift his head up so you can look him in the eye for several seconds while you repeat the command. Release and ignore him. After a minute call him to you and praise him when he gets to you.
You can accustom your pup or dog to being grabbed and petted (valuable with children in the family) by giving a treat with one hands while gradually moving the other hand closer, giving a treat each time. Then start from the beginning with the other hand. Increase the speed of arm and hand and the squeeze (grab) of the dog. Another way to accustom the pup to hands moving toward his head or body is to scratch him on the chest or throat with one hand as your other hand moves into his visual field. This teaches the pup to inhibit his bite reflex when people and children grab at him.
If you have tried these methods conscientiously for a week or so with no improvement, you can move on to more negative methods. Try a solution of one part vinegar or Listerine to ten parts water in a spray bottle with a stream. When the puppy bites at your heels, you can squirt him in the mouth and scold in a low, growly voice to stop. Another method of negative reinforcement with a hard-mouthed puppy is to cause the puppy to bite himself. Put your hand under his muzzle and squeeze his lips into his teeth until he gives a squeak of pain. Then ignore the puppy for a minute and then call him over and praise him for doing a good recall.
These suggestions are successful with the normal mouthy puppy. A pup who bites with intent to hurt is an aggressive personality and is a different matter. Most pups, however, will try a nip or two and when they find out it’s not acceptable will stop such behavior.
Videos for help
http://www.perfectpaws.com/pupstuff.html
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