*~*Schnauzers Of Taylor*~ Everything we do can make a difference. Dedicated to impeccable breeding of the highest standards. We specialize in AKC mini companion pets. Puppies raised in our home nursery with constant love, attention, monitoring and kisses. Health guarantee, CERF/DNA, puppy pkt, blankie and toy. We even litter box trained.We are a very small home breeder so expect to wait for our wonderful litters**AKC Inspected May 2014*~No Shipping, we want to meet face to face*~*
Sunday, January 18, 2009
PUPPY QUESTIONNAIRE
The following questions are being asked of you so that the right puppy and the right placement of each puppy is made by bringing the various requirements of both the puppy and his or new owner(s) into perspective, BEFORE a choice is made. I hope you will agree that the animal's welfare must be my foremost consideration in considering a placement.
Click Here for your questionnaire
Thursday, January 01, 2009
Exercise, Healthy Eating Helps Your Dog Live Longer
By Beth Taylor and Steve Brown
Our dogs have many of the same needs we do. To be at their best, they need real, fresh food in the balance that's best for their individual needs. For dogs, real food in its natural balance means meat and vegetables. Yet, all too frequently, we are advised to feed our dogs senior food, often for dogs starting as young as 6-years-old.
Veterinarians started recommending senior food years ago, when research seemed to show that dogs (and humans) with kidney problems would do better on a reduced protein diet. So, the reasoning went, we could avoid kidney failure by feeding a reduced protein diet as dogs aged.
This has not proved to be true for dogs or humans, and the big pet food companies agree. 1-4
Senior foods are higher in grain than adult foods, which will cause their bodies to increase their production of insulin and inflammatory chemicals. These foods are designed to be lower in fat and protein, with increased fiber. However, older dogs need better protein and more of it. 5 In our opinion, senior and light diets are detrimental to the health of older dogs.
If Sparky could talk, he'd tell you it's true. When we met Sparky, he was a 9-year-old stout Brittany Spaniel that was not feeling very well. His family switched from senior dry food to a fresh frozen diet as an experiment to see if a lower carbohydrate diet would help him lose weight.
In four months, he had lost about 10 pounds, and the following health issues were resolved:
Flaky coat
Itchy skin
Frequent bladder infections
Multiple aches and pains
Most of the tartar on his teeth
Read More About the Top-Recommended Healthy and Natural Treat for Dogs Now!
Today, Sparky has plenty of energy and no longer qualifies as an old dog.
Why? A species-appropriate diet, based on meat and vegetables, provides the protein, fat, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants needed to keep the immune system and the brain working well. Good fats keep inflammation in check and hormonal systems functioning properly.
Delaying Old Age
In a 14-year study that compared two groups of Labradors (one group free-fed and the other kept lean), lean dogs lived two years longer, and the muscle wasting associated with old age was delayed by two years compared to the group allowed to become overweight.
In addition, lean dogs did not develop arthritis until many years after the overweight dogs that began to show arthritic changes at age 2. 6 Even if your dog has not been kept lean, you may see most of these benefits when you help your dog shed those extra pounds with a meat and vegetable-based diet. It's never too late!
Those with achy and overweight dogs will be amazed to see the difference in how their dogs feel and act when they are fed meat- and vegetable-based diets. We have often seen the health of dogs transformed by a change of diet.
Dogs with common chronic medical conditions need the supervision of a veterinarian who is skilled with fresh food diets to supervise and fine-tune a fresh food diet. Almost all chronic conditions (diabetes, arthritis, irritable bowel disease and irritable bowel syndrome, liver and kidney problems, dental disease) will improve on a home-prepared diet designed to support the specific issue.
Learning New Tricks
Good food keeps dogs lean, but they also need exercise. If our older animals are not fit, the best diet in the world won't keep them with us.
At your spring veterinary wellness checkup, find out what level of activity your veterinarian thinks is suitable for your animals to start with, and add from there. Many conditions we have discounted as "just old age" diminish or disappear with good exercise.
Digestion improves, elimination becomes more regular, animals are less achy and their brains work better. Getting more oxygen circulating builds lungs and heart and improves overall muscle tone and general health immensely. Brisk walking is a great start, but dogs need to get moving enough to get out of breath as well.
For smaller dogs, this is easy to accomplish. Very out-of-shape dogs will get winded pretty quickly, too, but as their fitness increases, those with big dogs will need to find ways to get them really moving.
In our experience, we've also found dogs often fade away from simple boredom. With an improved diet, they are likely to feel more like being active, but they need mental stimulation as well. The following are some simple games you can play with them to do just that:
Include your dog in family activities, and play with him.
Small games like "catch the popcorn" and "find the treat" take very little human effort and provide fun and mental stimulation.
Modify activities your old guy is no longer able to accomplish so he can do them. For example, throw the ball so it lands closer to you and make sure he sees it before letting him go for it. Help him in and out of the car.
Many dogs have self-appointed tasks: Encourage them to keep at their jobs! Being needed keeps a dog happy.
Learning something new keeps dogs happy, too. It's a mutually beneficial activity. Both human and animal brains get a workout, and your connection to your dog gets even better.
Supplements abound for older dogs and cats. They may prove to be of great benefit, but more to the point is good food and good exercise. Studies have shown supplements like glucosamine and chondroitin to be of use in joint issues. Still, the need for many of these supplements is minimized once an animal is eating real food and getting enough exercise to make use of it.
If you do use supplements, look for those made with whole foods. We consider a wide range of oils (fish and cod liver oil available from Dr. Mercola's Web site) to be necessary ingredients of a good diet. And we consider them an essential food, not an isolated ingredient or supplement.
Read the book, See Spot Live Longer, for more details on commercial diets and adding real food to your dog's diet. If your dog has a specific condition, we suggest you consult with a veterinarian who is experienced with fresh food diets to fine-tune the diet to your dog's needs.
Get them moving, feed them well and engage their brains and you'll find a dog that is more interested in life and feels much better. We've spent a long time perfecting our relationships with our old dogs. Let's keep them as long as we can.
Our dogs have many of the same needs we do. To be at their best, they need real, fresh food in the balance that's best for their individual needs. For dogs, real food in its natural balance means meat and vegetables. Yet, all too frequently, we are advised to feed our dogs senior food, often for dogs starting as young as 6-years-old.
Veterinarians started recommending senior food years ago, when research seemed to show that dogs (and humans) with kidney problems would do better on a reduced protein diet. So, the reasoning went, we could avoid kidney failure by feeding a reduced protein diet as dogs aged.
This has not proved to be true for dogs or humans, and the big pet food companies agree. 1-4
Senior foods are higher in grain than adult foods, which will cause their bodies to increase their production of insulin and inflammatory chemicals. These foods are designed to be lower in fat and protein, with increased fiber. However, older dogs need better protein and more of it. 5 In our opinion, senior and light diets are detrimental to the health of older dogs.
If Sparky could talk, he'd tell you it's true. When we met Sparky, he was a 9-year-old stout Brittany Spaniel that was not feeling very well. His family switched from senior dry food to a fresh frozen diet as an experiment to see if a lower carbohydrate diet would help him lose weight.
In four months, he had lost about 10 pounds, and the following health issues were resolved:
Flaky coat
Itchy skin
Frequent bladder infections
Multiple aches and pains
Most of the tartar on his teeth
Read More About the Top-Recommended Healthy and Natural Treat for Dogs Now!
Today, Sparky has plenty of energy and no longer qualifies as an old dog.
Why? A species-appropriate diet, based on meat and vegetables, provides the protein, fat, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants needed to keep the immune system and the brain working well. Good fats keep inflammation in check and hormonal systems functioning properly.
Delaying Old Age
In a 14-year study that compared two groups of Labradors (one group free-fed and the other kept lean), lean dogs lived two years longer, and the muscle wasting associated with old age was delayed by two years compared to the group allowed to become overweight.
In addition, lean dogs did not develop arthritis until many years after the overweight dogs that began to show arthritic changes at age 2. 6 Even if your dog has not been kept lean, you may see most of these benefits when you help your dog shed those extra pounds with a meat and vegetable-based diet. It's never too late!
Those with achy and overweight dogs will be amazed to see the difference in how their dogs feel and act when they are fed meat- and vegetable-based diets. We have often seen the health of dogs transformed by a change of diet.
Dogs with common chronic medical conditions need the supervision of a veterinarian who is skilled with fresh food diets to supervise and fine-tune a fresh food diet. Almost all chronic conditions (diabetes, arthritis, irritable bowel disease and irritable bowel syndrome, liver and kidney problems, dental disease) will improve on a home-prepared diet designed to support the specific issue.
Learning New Tricks
Good food keeps dogs lean, but they also need exercise. If our older animals are not fit, the best diet in the world won't keep them with us.
At your spring veterinary wellness checkup, find out what level of activity your veterinarian thinks is suitable for your animals to start with, and add from there. Many conditions we have discounted as "just old age" diminish or disappear with good exercise.
Digestion improves, elimination becomes more regular, animals are less achy and their brains work better. Getting more oxygen circulating builds lungs and heart and improves overall muscle tone and general health immensely. Brisk walking is a great start, but dogs need to get moving enough to get out of breath as well.
For smaller dogs, this is easy to accomplish. Very out-of-shape dogs will get winded pretty quickly, too, but as their fitness increases, those with big dogs will need to find ways to get them really moving.
In our experience, we've also found dogs often fade away from simple boredom. With an improved diet, they are likely to feel more like being active, but they need mental stimulation as well. The following are some simple games you can play with them to do just that:
Include your dog in family activities, and play with him.
Small games like "catch the popcorn" and "find the treat" take very little human effort and provide fun and mental stimulation.
Modify activities your old guy is no longer able to accomplish so he can do them. For example, throw the ball so it lands closer to you and make sure he sees it before letting him go for it. Help him in and out of the car.
Many dogs have self-appointed tasks: Encourage them to keep at their jobs! Being needed keeps a dog happy.
Learning something new keeps dogs happy, too. It's a mutually beneficial activity. Both human and animal brains get a workout, and your connection to your dog gets even better.
Supplements abound for older dogs and cats. They may prove to be of great benefit, but more to the point is good food and good exercise. Studies have shown supplements like glucosamine and chondroitin to be of use in joint issues. Still, the need for many of these supplements is minimized once an animal is eating real food and getting enough exercise to make use of it.
If you do use supplements, look for those made with whole foods. We consider a wide range of oils (fish and cod liver oil available from Dr. Mercola's Web site) to be necessary ingredients of a good diet. And we consider them an essential food, not an isolated ingredient or supplement.
Read the book, See Spot Live Longer, for more details on commercial diets and adding real food to your dog's diet. If your dog has a specific condition, we suggest you consult with a veterinarian who is experienced with fresh food diets to fine-tune the diet to your dog's needs.
Get them moving, feed them well and engage their brains and you'll find a dog that is more interested in life and feels much better. We've spent a long time perfecting our relationships with our old dogs. Let's keep them as long as we can.
Brazil Nuts Can Help Your Dog Live Longer
By Steve Brown and Beth Taylor
Human nutrition and lifestyle studies prove there are ways to improve the odds that we will live long, healthy lives. It's simple: Eat a variety of fresh, minimally-processed foods, especially fruits and vegetables; stay lean; exercise often; and avoid toxins. Good nutrition is key. Dietary habits may be instrumental in about 60% of cancers in women and about 40% in men.1
Good diets are just as important for dogs. Unfortunately, many of our dogs are eating diets composed exclusively of highly processed, grain-based foods with synthetic vitamins and minerals. Even the best of the "healthy" dry foods fall into this category. No wonder one in three dogs will die of cancer!
In our book, See Spot Live Longer, we discuss many easy things you can do to help your dog live longer. One easy step we can take is to add crushed Brazil nuts, a source of natural forms of selenium, to our dogs' food.
Selenium is an essential trace mineral of fundamental importance to human and canine health. Adequate selenium is necessary for the normal functioning of the immune system and thyroid gland. Selenium is receiving considerable attention for its possible role as an effective naturally occurring anti-carcinogenic agent.
Recently, the American Association for Cancer Research reported than high selenium consumption may protect humans from bladder cancer.2 Animal studies have shown a beneficial effect of high selenium levels in the prevention of cancer.3 The form of the selenium is important: Natural, food-derived forms of selenium may have beneficial effects not shared by human-synthesized selenium compounds.4
Dogs evolved consuming two organic forms of selenium: selenomethionine (an essential amino acid found primarily in plants) and selenocysteine (an amino acid found mostly in organ meats). Most dry and canned dog foods today use an inorganic type of selenium, sodium selenite or sodium selenate. These forms of selenium are considered toxic by the National Toxicology Program of the US Department of Health and Human Services.5
The body reacts differently to the selenium in food as compared to food supplemented with sodium selenite. A 2003 study in The Journal of Nutrition stated that "the absorption, distribution, and excretion of selenium in food were ... distinctly different from sodium selenite."6 Natural forms of selenium are superior to human synthesized forms. Dr. John W Finley, supervisor of the Trace Element Absorption and Bioavailability Laboratory and the Grand Forks Human Nutrition Research Center, and one of the leading researchers on selenium stated:
"Something in the whole foods must boost selenium's anticancer property," and "These results are further evidence that broccoli may be an especially good source of selenium, and nutrition professionals may be wise to take this info into account when giving nutritional advice."7
Is selenium deficiency a contributing factor to canine hip dysplasia?
Insufficient selenium intake can cause serious health problems, including Kashin-Beck disease, which is characterized by the degeneration of the articular cartilage between joints8, thyroid disease and a variety of cancers. We've read unpublished, yet well researched, reports linking selenium deficiency with hip dysplasia.9 There is a wealth of data about farm animals which shows organic forms of selenium (selenomethionine) outperform sodium selenite. One of the reasons for this is that natural forms of selenium can be stored in the body for later use, while selenite cannot.10
Perhaps some dogs are not able to sufficiently use the inorganic forms of selenium found in most dry dog foods. Therefore if a bitch were unable to fully utilize sodium selenite, her puppies would be more likely to have joint problems. Pottenger's classic study with cats shows that problems due to nutrient deficiency get worse with each generation.11 Is the source of the selenium used in most dry dog foods one of the reasons many dogs, purebred and mixed-breed, have hip problems? It may be one of the nutritional causes.
It's easy to correct this situation. Whether you're feeding dry, canned, or the best frozen raw diets, you can easily ensure that your dog is getting enough selenium by adding Brazil nuts. The selenium in broccoli and other vegetables will vary according to the amount of selenium in the soils. Brazil nuts, on the other hand, are a reliable source of selenium. Of course, the fresher the nut, the better. In our home tests with our dogs, freshly shelled Brazil nuts won over shelled nuts bought at natural food markets, in both flavor and fragrance.
We recommend that people add one-half of a crushed Brazil nut per day for every 50 pounds your dog weighs. Since natural forms of selenium are stored in the body, you can easily add one crushed nut every other day, or, for toy dogs, ten pounds or less, one crushed nut per week is great! Please remember, feed all foods in moderation. A meal of just Brazil nuts is not healthy for any dog or any human.
May your Spot live a long, healthy life.
References
Milner, John A. "Nonnutritive Components in Foods as Modifiers on of the Cancer Process" Preventive Nutrition: The Comprehensive Guide for Health Professionals, 2nd edition, p 131. 2001.
Mary E. Reid, Anna J. Duffield-Lillico, Linda Garland, Bruce W. Turnbull, Larry C. Clark, and James R. Marshall, "Selenium Supplementation and Lung Cancer Incidence: An Update of the Nutritional Prevention of Cancer Trial," Cancer Epidemiology Biomarkers & Prevention. November 2002; 11.
Patrick, Lyn, Selenium Biochemistry and Cancer; A Review of the Literature," Alternative Medicine Review, Volume 9, Number 3, 2004. 239 -- 258.
Schrauzer, G.N. "Selenomethionine: A Review of its Nutritional Significance, Metabolism and Toxicity," Journal of Nutrition, 130, 2000. 1653-1656
National Toxicology Program, http://ntp-server.niehs.nih.gov/ htdocs/ST-studies/TOX038.html
Hawkes, Alkan, and Oehler "Absorption, Distribution and Excretion of Selenium from Beef and Rice in Healthy North American Men," Jounral of Nutrition, November 2003. 3434.
Finley, J.W., Ip, C., Lisk, D.J., Davis, C.D., Hintze, K.J. and Whanger, "Cancer-protective properties of high-selenium broccoli" J Agricultural and Food Chemistry, Vol. 49, #5, 2679-2683, 2001.
Burk, R.F. & Levander, O.A. "Selenium," in Shils, M. et al. Eds. Nutrition in Health and Disease, 9th Edition. Baltimore: Williams & Wilkins, 1999. 265-276.
Parker, Jay, "Hip Dysplasia in Dogs: Why Seleniuim Deficiency Will Cause It." Unpublished manuscript.
Schrauzer, G.N. "Selenomethionine: A Review of its Nutritional Significance, Metabolism and Toxicity," Journal of Nutrition, 130, 2000. 1653-1656.
Pottenger, Francis. Pottenger's Cats A Study in Nutrition 1983. Dr. Pottenger compared four generations of cats fed cooked and four generations of cats fed the same diet, except raw. With the cooked diet, Dr. Pottenger found that each generation developed health problems at earlier ages than the preceding generation. The raw fed cats remained healthy. We now know that the cooked diets were deficient in taurine and thiamin.
Human nutrition and lifestyle studies prove there are ways to improve the odds that we will live long, healthy lives. It's simple: Eat a variety of fresh, minimally-processed foods, especially fruits and vegetables; stay lean; exercise often; and avoid toxins. Good nutrition is key. Dietary habits may be instrumental in about 60% of cancers in women and about 40% in men.1
Good diets are just as important for dogs. Unfortunately, many of our dogs are eating diets composed exclusively of highly processed, grain-based foods with synthetic vitamins and minerals. Even the best of the "healthy" dry foods fall into this category. No wonder one in three dogs will die of cancer!
In our book, See Spot Live Longer, we discuss many easy things you can do to help your dog live longer. One easy step we can take is to add crushed Brazil nuts, a source of natural forms of selenium, to our dogs' food.
Selenium is an essential trace mineral of fundamental importance to human and canine health. Adequate selenium is necessary for the normal functioning of the immune system and thyroid gland. Selenium is receiving considerable attention for its possible role as an effective naturally occurring anti-carcinogenic agent.
Recently, the American Association for Cancer Research reported than high selenium consumption may protect humans from bladder cancer.2 Animal studies have shown a beneficial effect of high selenium levels in the prevention of cancer.3 The form of the selenium is important: Natural, food-derived forms of selenium may have beneficial effects not shared by human-synthesized selenium compounds.4
Dogs evolved consuming two organic forms of selenium: selenomethionine (an essential amino acid found primarily in plants) and selenocysteine (an amino acid found mostly in organ meats). Most dry and canned dog foods today use an inorganic type of selenium, sodium selenite or sodium selenate. These forms of selenium are considered toxic by the National Toxicology Program of the US Department of Health and Human Services.5
The body reacts differently to the selenium in food as compared to food supplemented with sodium selenite. A 2003 study in The Journal of Nutrition stated that "the absorption, distribution, and excretion of selenium in food were ... distinctly different from sodium selenite."6 Natural forms of selenium are superior to human synthesized forms. Dr. John W Finley, supervisor of the Trace Element Absorption and Bioavailability Laboratory and the Grand Forks Human Nutrition Research Center, and one of the leading researchers on selenium stated:
"Something in the whole foods must boost selenium's anticancer property," and "These results are further evidence that broccoli may be an especially good source of selenium, and nutrition professionals may be wise to take this info into account when giving nutritional advice."7
Is selenium deficiency a contributing factor to canine hip dysplasia?
Insufficient selenium intake can cause serious health problems, including Kashin-Beck disease, which is characterized by the degeneration of the articular cartilage between joints8, thyroid disease and a variety of cancers. We've read unpublished, yet well researched, reports linking selenium deficiency with hip dysplasia.9 There is a wealth of data about farm animals which shows organic forms of selenium (selenomethionine) outperform sodium selenite. One of the reasons for this is that natural forms of selenium can be stored in the body for later use, while selenite cannot.10
Perhaps some dogs are not able to sufficiently use the inorganic forms of selenium found in most dry dog foods. Therefore if a bitch were unable to fully utilize sodium selenite, her puppies would be more likely to have joint problems. Pottenger's classic study with cats shows that problems due to nutrient deficiency get worse with each generation.11 Is the source of the selenium used in most dry dog foods one of the reasons many dogs, purebred and mixed-breed, have hip problems? It may be one of the nutritional causes.
It's easy to correct this situation. Whether you're feeding dry, canned, or the best frozen raw diets, you can easily ensure that your dog is getting enough selenium by adding Brazil nuts. The selenium in broccoli and other vegetables will vary according to the amount of selenium in the soils. Brazil nuts, on the other hand, are a reliable source of selenium. Of course, the fresher the nut, the better. In our home tests with our dogs, freshly shelled Brazil nuts won over shelled nuts bought at natural food markets, in both flavor and fragrance.
We recommend that people add one-half of a crushed Brazil nut per day for every 50 pounds your dog weighs. Since natural forms of selenium are stored in the body, you can easily add one crushed nut every other day, or, for toy dogs, ten pounds or less, one crushed nut per week is great! Please remember, feed all foods in moderation. A meal of just Brazil nuts is not healthy for any dog or any human.
May your Spot live a long, healthy life.
References
Milner, John A. "Nonnutritive Components in Foods as Modifiers on of the Cancer Process" Preventive Nutrition: The Comprehensive Guide for Health Professionals, 2nd edition, p 131. 2001.
Mary E. Reid, Anna J. Duffield-Lillico, Linda Garland, Bruce W. Turnbull, Larry C. Clark, and James R. Marshall, "Selenium Supplementation and Lung Cancer Incidence: An Update of the Nutritional Prevention of Cancer Trial," Cancer Epidemiology Biomarkers & Prevention. November 2002; 11.
Patrick, Lyn, Selenium Biochemistry and Cancer; A Review of the Literature," Alternative Medicine Review, Volume 9, Number 3, 2004. 239 -- 258.
Schrauzer, G.N. "Selenomethionine: A Review of its Nutritional Significance, Metabolism and Toxicity," Journal of Nutrition, 130, 2000. 1653-1656
National Toxicology Program, http://ntp-server.niehs.nih.gov/ htdocs/ST-studies/TOX038.html
Hawkes, Alkan, and Oehler "Absorption, Distribution and Excretion of Selenium from Beef and Rice in Healthy North American Men," Jounral of Nutrition, November 2003. 3434.
Finley, J.W., Ip, C., Lisk, D.J., Davis, C.D., Hintze, K.J. and Whanger, "Cancer-protective properties of high-selenium broccoli" J Agricultural and Food Chemistry, Vol. 49, #5, 2679-2683, 2001.
Burk, R.F. & Levander, O.A. "Selenium," in Shils, M. et al. Eds. Nutrition in Health and Disease, 9th Edition. Baltimore: Williams & Wilkins, 1999. 265-276.
Parker, Jay, "Hip Dysplasia in Dogs: Why Seleniuim Deficiency Will Cause It." Unpublished manuscript.
Schrauzer, G.N. "Selenomethionine: A Review of its Nutritional Significance, Metabolism and Toxicity," Journal of Nutrition, 130, 2000. 1653-1656.
Pottenger, Francis. Pottenger's Cats A Study in Nutrition 1983. Dr. Pottenger compared four generations of cats fed cooked and four generations of cats fed the same diet, except raw. With the cooked diet, Dr. Pottenger found that each generation developed health problems at earlier ages than the preceding generation. The raw fed cats remained healthy. We now know that the cooked diets were deficient in taurine and thiamin.
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
How To Groom A Schnauzer
I use the Oster Turbo with 2 speeds and a #10 blade for the back and face. The legs are scissor trimmed. I also store my blade in the blade wash. Use could use a can of blade cool to cool the blades down during use.
**I don't recommend pulling the hair out of the ears though. You can use blunt tip scissors.
Videos:
Monday, November 24, 2008
*~*~*Paris Hilton at My Grandma's*~*~
Grandma, Paris and Megan
Paris and me!
My wonderful grandmother bred a couple of awesome litters of Chihuahuas. Paris Hilton was in Austin shooting a movie, came to Taylor and purchased her Chihuahua from my grandmother. The great part was that my grandmother had no clue who the heck she was. Paris treated my grandmother with the greatest respect, just like she was her own. She stayed and visited for a hour with us. That was a big day in Taylor, even made the little newspaper here.
Sunday, September 21, 2008
*~Annual Dog Vaccines May Not be Necessary *~
Since the 1970s, the professor and chair of pathobiological sciences at the University of Wisconsin-Madison School of Veterinary Medicine has been studying canine vaccines and has found that dogs are being over-vaccinated.
As a result, a group of canine vaccine experts has developed new veterinary guidelines that may eliminate the need to give annual shots to dogs.
Dogs receive up to 16 different vaccines each year, often combined into one shot. While four of the vaccines protect against serious diseases like rabies, canine parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2), canine distemper virus (CDV) and canine adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2), the others protect against much milder diseases that a dog may or may not be exposed to, such as Lyme disease.
However, over-vaccination can result in side effects such as skin problems, allergic reactions and autoimmune disease. Moreover, tumors have been found at the site of vaccine injections in cats, though not dogs.
The adverse reactions caused by vaccines have caused many veterinarians to rethink the issue of vaccination.
Evidence suggests that like humans, dogs could be vaccinated with certain vaccines early in life and be protected for a lifetime, rather than receiving yearly doses.
Reportedly, with the exception of rabies, the core vaccines, which protect against life-threatening disease, could last for seven years and should not be given more frequently than every three years. Rabies shots have a three-year duration, according to research, and should be given every three years.
In terms of the non-core vaccines, many have a shorter duration and last about one year. But according to researchers not every dog should get these vaccines because only some dogs are at risk of exposure. These vaccines, such as the shot for Lyme disease, can cause adverse effects and should only be given if the dog is at significant risk, as is the case with all vaccines.
Many veterinarians rely on annual vaccines to bring in income, so the revised recommendations may create controversy. However, researchers note that annual visits are important for other reasons such as checking for heart worm and tumors. A recently developed test can be used to check dogs’ immunity against certain diseases rather than vaccinating them each year.
Additionally, researchers say that veterinarians who have switched to three-year vaccinations, as opposed to annual vaccinations, have not had seen an increase in dogs with diseases that could be prevented by vaccines. Further, giving an animal a vaccine that's not needed creates an unnecessary risk to the animal.
Journal American Animal Hospital Association March-April 2003;39(2):119-31
from www.Mercola.com
***My two cents worth. I am a firm believer in the first series of vaccinations given at 6,9 and 12 weeks. After that it is questionable. Your vet can actually run a titer to check immunity levels before giving the series. Some vets won't do it because it is too much trouble. I think the less live virus we put into their bodies the less trouble they will have in the long run. Bordetella vaccination that is required before kenneling is one that my vet opts out on. When Holly started Triple Crown for training and they required it, he just filled out paperwork like she he had it. He said the chance of her getting it would be 1 in 5,000 and with simple Erythromycin tabs it is treatable. So he does not believe in it. But again, you have to find a vet that is willing to practice in a more holistic manner.Talk with you vet and see if you can do titers before vaccinating.
As a result, a group of canine vaccine experts has developed new veterinary guidelines that may eliminate the need to give annual shots to dogs.
Dogs receive up to 16 different vaccines each year, often combined into one shot. While four of the vaccines protect against serious diseases like rabies, canine parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2), canine distemper virus (CDV) and canine adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2), the others protect against much milder diseases that a dog may or may not be exposed to, such as Lyme disease.
However, over-vaccination can result in side effects such as skin problems, allergic reactions and autoimmune disease. Moreover, tumors have been found at the site of vaccine injections in cats, though not dogs.
The adverse reactions caused by vaccines have caused many veterinarians to rethink the issue of vaccination.
Evidence suggests that like humans, dogs could be vaccinated with certain vaccines early in life and be protected for a lifetime, rather than receiving yearly doses.
Reportedly, with the exception of rabies, the core vaccines, which protect against life-threatening disease, could last for seven years and should not be given more frequently than every three years. Rabies shots have a three-year duration, according to research, and should be given every three years.
In terms of the non-core vaccines, many have a shorter duration and last about one year. But according to researchers not every dog should get these vaccines because only some dogs are at risk of exposure. These vaccines, such as the shot for Lyme disease, can cause adverse effects and should only be given if the dog is at significant risk, as is the case with all vaccines.
Many veterinarians rely on annual vaccines to bring in income, so the revised recommendations may create controversy. However, researchers note that annual visits are important for other reasons such as checking for heart worm and tumors. A recently developed test can be used to check dogs’ immunity against certain diseases rather than vaccinating them each year.
Additionally, researchers say that veterinarians who have switched to three-year vaccinations, as opposed to annual vaccinations, have not had seen an increase in dogs with diseases that could be prevented by vaccines. Further, giving an animal a vaccine that's not needed creates an unnecessary risk to the animal.
Journal American Animal Hospital Association March-April 2003;39(2):119-31
from www.Mercola.com
***My two cents worth. I am a firm believer in the first series of vaccinations given at 6,9 and 12 weeks. After that it is questionable. Your vet can actually run a titer to check immunity levels before giving the series. Some vets won't do it because it is too much trouble. I think the less live virus we put into their bodies the less trouble they will have in the long run. Bordetella vaccination that is required before kenneling is one that my vet opts out on. When Holly started Triple Crown for training and they required it, he just filled out paperwork like she he had it. He said the chance of her getting it would be 1 in 5,000 and with simple Erythromycin tabs it is treatable. So he does not believe in it. But again, you have to find a vet that is willing to practice in a more holistic manner.Talk with you vet and see if you can do titers before vaccinating.
Saturday, June 21, 2008
If Your Dog Has Ticks
Here are three steps to follow.
Remove the tick immediately. An infected tick can transmit disease in only a few hours. Wear latex gloves, if possible. Use tweezers to grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible, and pull gently. Clean your hands, the bite area, and the tweezers with disinfectant.
Place the tick in a small container of alcohol. Make note of the date. In case of future illness, tick identification will be important.
Never try to burn, smother, or otherwise get a tick to "back out." Also, do not attempt to remove a tick with your fingers. These methods do not work and can cause the tick to regurgitate more potential pathogens into the dog's skin.
Alternive way from my mom:Here is a simple way that you can get them to back out and that is by using some dish soap in a cotton
boll and laying it over the tick for a couple of minutes and they will back out because they can't breath.
Then they will get caught in the cotton because they
back out into the cotton. walla! Easy way to catch a tick.
Remove the tick immediately. An infected tick can transmit disease in only a few hours. Wear latex gloves, if possible. Use tweezers to grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible, and pull gently. Clean your hands, the bite area, and the tweezers with disinfectant.
Place the tick in a small container of alcohol. Make note of the date. In case of future illness, tick identification will be important.
Never try to burn, smother, or otherwise get a tick to "back out." Also, do not attempt to remove a tick with your fingers. These methods do not work and can cause the tick to regurgitate more potential pathogens into the dog's skin.
Alternive way from my mom:Here is a simple way that you can get them to back out and that is by using some dish soap in a cotton
boll and laying it over the tick for a couple of minutes and they will back out because they can't breath.
Then they will get caught in the cotton because they
back out into the cotton. walla! Easy way to catch a tick.
Friday, June 20, 2008
Pack Mentality
Understanding the Nature of the Pack
Pack leaders don’t project nervousness. They don’t project panic. They don’t project tension.
What’s the same about a dog, an elephant and a horse? These animals all organize behind a leader.
People make a mistake when they treat dogs like humans. Every species has its own psychology. If we understand its psychology, we can control the behavior, because we know how to relate to them.
Newborn puppies need to find a place or status within the pack. They don’t get a name like we do, because personality is something humans create and only exists in our world. In the animal world, there are two positions: the leader and the follower. Dogs are simple; we make their lives complicated by misunderstanding what they need as a species.
Dog Speak
Dogs communicate through constant energy. The pack leader always projects a calm-assertive energy. Energy is what I call beingness: who and what you are being at every moment. (If you don’t know what I mean by calm-assertive energy, think about Oprah Winfrey. She is calm and assertive in the human world.) Pack leaders don’t project nervousness. They don’t project panic. They don’t project tension.
Simply put: the pack leader is a calm-assertive presence that provides balance to the pack. It’s also not about gender; a female or a male can become pack leader. Pack leaders control everything; nothing is open to debate.
Two Worlds Collide
When dogs come into our homes, they meet emotional energy for the first time. We shower them with affection, and they see us as excited energy. This is why dogs don’t listen to humans. Their mothers never acted this way. Where did the calm-assertive leadership go?
We often develop a different agenda for our dogs. We want to make puppies our babies. When people see a nervous or shy dog, they console her like they would another human.
In the animal world, this nurtures instability, something a pack would never do. From day one, the human fulfills himself and forgets about what’s important to the dog.
In the absence of a one hundred percent leader, the dog, even a submissive one, will seek to fill what they see as a vacant role. The dog will ignore the owner or act out in other ways. This is the beginning of giving control to the dog.
One of the most important things you can remember is that dogs are animals. If we don’t fulfill them as a species, they won’t live a balanced, centered life. Understanding and projecting a pack leader’s calm-assertive energy will create a positive and lasting connection with your dog.
from Cesar Millan website
Pack leaders don’t project nervousness. They don’t project panic. They don’t project tension.
What’s the same about a dog, an elephant and a horse? These animals all organize behind a leader.
People make a mistake when they treat dogs like humans. Every species has its own psychology. If we understand its psychology, we can control the behavior, because we know how to relate to them.
Newborn puppies need to find a place or status within the pack. They don’t get a name like we do, because personality is something humans create and only exists in our world. In the animal world, there are two positions: the leader and the follower. Dogs are simple; we make their lives complicated by misunderstanding what they need as a species.
Dog Speak
Dogs communicate through constant energy. The pack leader always projects a calm-assertive energy. Energy is what I call beingness: who and what you are being at every moment. (If you don’t know what I mean by calm-assertive energy, think about Oprah Winfrey. She is calm and assertive in the human world.) Pack leaders don’t project nervousness. They don’t project panic. They don’t project tension.
Simply put: the pack leader is a calm-assertive presence that provides balance to the pack. It’s also not about gender; a female or a male can become pack leader. Pack leaders control everything; nothing is open to debate.
Two Worlds Collide
When dogs come into our homes, they meet emotional energy for the first time. We shower them with affection, and they see us as excited energy. This is why dogs don’t listen to humans. Their mothers never acted this way. Where did the calm-assertive leadership go?
We often develop a different agenda for our dogs. We want to make puppies our babies. When people see a nervous or shy dog, they console her like they would another human.
In the animal world, this nurtures instability, something a pack would never do. From day one, the human fulfills himself and forgets about what’s important to the dog.
In the absence of a one hundred percent leader, the dog, even a submissive one, will seek to fill what they see as a vacant role. The dog will ignore the owner or act out in other ways. This is the beginning of giving control to the dog.
One of the most important things you can remember is that dogs are animals. If we don’t fulfill them as a species, they won’t live a balanced, centered life. Understanding and projecting a pack leader’s calm-assertive energy will create a positive and lasting connection with your dog.
from Cesar Millan website
Thursday, June 19, 2008
***Dog Days Of Summer Safety Tips***
With these hot summer days we all need reminders about the heat and our fur children. Please visit www.akc.org/news/index.cfm?article_id=2958
Sunday, March 16, 2008
*~*To Dock Tails or Not*~*~
This is my most favorite video in the world. These little happy schnauzers live in Australia. I wrote the guy and he was kind enough to reply.
"Hi Donna, it is now illegal to doc tails in Australia, as it is to crop ears,some breeders are still trying to do it, but the fines are heavy and it is being administered by the RSPCA but we have kept tails now for 15 years."
See this:
http://www.dogtrainingireland.ie/documents/why_taildocking_should_be_prohibited.pdf
We at SOT are very happy to leave a tail on your new baby. You must have first pick on our waitlist and full payment is required for puppy at 3 days of age. You also will need to pick your puppy on day 3 of age. Please keep in mind that we can not evaluate personalities that may best match your family when we do this. Please know that our past pups that have had tails left and been perfect fits into their new families.
Thursday, January 24, 2008
*~*Jackson Family*~*
We were very proud to of placed our puppy in the Jackson family in CA. They named him "Jackson". Jackson is owned by Alejandra, Genevieve, Jermajesty, Jaafar and Randy. They are the nephews and neices of Michael Jackson.
Cocoa Mulch and Foxtails
Please read about Sugar Free Gum:
http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/xylitol.asp
****************************
Cocoa Mulch*~*~Beware
True information about the mulch can be found here - http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/cocoa.htm
This site gives the following information:
Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot, Foreman's Garden Supply and other Garden supply stores, contains a lethal ingredient called 'Theobromine'.
It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and die. Several deaths already occurred in the last 2-3 weeks. Just a word of caution: check what you are using in your gardens and be aware of what your gardeners are using in your gardens.
Theobromine is the ingredient that is used to make all chocolate especially dark or baker's chocolate which is toxic to dogs.
Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of theobromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline. A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.
**thanks to Christy for the heads up
****************************
*~After dry spring, foxtails making animals miserable
You can read this story in its entirety on the web at:http://www.sacbee.com/101/story/1064154.html
**thanks Debbi
http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/xylitol.asp
****************************
Cocoa Mulch*~*~Beware
True information about the mulch can be found here - http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/cocoa.htm
This site gives the following information:
Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot, Foreman's Garden Supply and other Garden supply stores, contains a lethal ingredient called 'Theobromine'.
It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and die. Several deaths already occurred in the last 2-3 weeks. Just a word of caution: check what you are using in your gardens and be aware of what your gardeners are using in your gardens.
Theobromine is the ingredient that is used to make all chocolate especially dark or baker's chocolate which is toxic to dogs.
Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of theobromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline. A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.
**thanks to Christy for the heads up
****************************
*~After dry spring, foxtails making animals miserable
You can read this story in its entirety on the web at:http://www.sacbee.com/101/story/1064154.html
**thanks Debbi
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Education Info Section
EDUCATION INFO SECTION:
Start out on the right foot by doing all you can to ease your dog’s adjustment to his new family. Here’s the information you need to help make your friend’s stay in his new home safe and enjoyable.
DOG-PROOF YOUR HOME
Whether your new friend is a puppy or adult dog, here are important tips to help keep him out of harm’s way:
Keep household cleaners and chemicals out of his reach.
Restrict access to plants that are dangerous to dogs: poinsettias, azaleas, rhododendrons, dumb cane, Japanese yew, oleander and English ivy.
Store breakable items safely out of the way.
Hide or cover electrical cords so he won’t chew on them.
Safely store antifreeze, engine oil, laundry detergents and lawn chemicals.
Keep kids’ toys off the floor—since some parts may be small enough for your puppy or dog to swallow.
Use a cover and/or protective fencing if you have a pool or hot tub.
CHOOSING A NAME
Here are a few tips to consider before naming your new dog:
Names should be short. A two-syllable name is best because it’s brief and won’t be confused with one-syllable commands such as “No” or “Sit.”
Be consistent. All family members should use the same name—don’t use confusing nicknames or variations.
Reward your dog’s recognition of his name with lots of praise and play.
WELCOME HOME
As the “parent” of a puppy or new adult dog, it’s important for you to help him get used to his new surroundings. Think of him more as an infant than a pet: He’ll need plenty of patience, supervision and love. Here’s how you can help him adjust.
Bring him home when it’s quiet and you don’t have company. Also, choose a time when your routine is normal.
Show him the area of your yard that will be his bathroom before bringing him inside. Then take him there whenever he goes outside.
Give your dog his own room where you can keep his crate, complete with bedding and chew toys (leave the crate’s door open). He’ll feel safe in his “den.” Put down newspaper for accidents. (See pages 14-15 for more housebreaking tips.)
Supervise your puppy at all times, and play with him several times a day. You’ll help establish yourself as the pack leader.
Give him bathroom breaks every few hours and right after eating, drinking, sleeping and playing (watch for signals like sniffing or circling). Never punish your dog for accidents; instead, praise him when he goes in his outdoor spot.
GETTING EXERCISE
An appropriate amount of exercise will help promote your new dog’s good behavior and assist you in training him. Talk with your veterinarian about how much daily exercise your breed typically needs. Some dogs are just naturally more high-energy, and need more exercise than others. Schedule family members to exercise your dog throughout the day. I do not recommend outside walking until all shots have been completed which is 12 weeks of age.
MEETING CHILDREN
You should have no trouble at all encouraging your children to play with your new dog. Still, you’ll want to supervise his first interactions with your kids and set playtime limits—15-20 minutes two or three times a day. Here are still more ground rules to explain:
No rough teasing or playing. Tell your kids that tail-pulling and teasing can lead to bad habits like jumping up.
Be gentle. Tell kids never to shout at the dog, even if he does something wrong. Explain that dogs can be startled by loud noises.
INTRODUCING OTHER PETS
Here’s how to help him meet your resident animals:
Do it gradually. Keep them separated for the first few days.
Keep him safely in his crate (or behind an expandable doorway gate) as you supervise their first meeting.
After several days of sniffing each other out, let your resident pet enter the den while your new dog is out of his crate.
Giving your new dog the appropriate amount of exercise.
Supplies you’ll need
Have these supplies on hand before you bring your dog home with you.
Teething toys
Stainless-steel non-tipping food and water bowls
ID tags with the contact information for yourself and your veterinarian
A size small collar and a 6-foot leather or nylon leash
Wire Crate 24x36 (this is great for when they first get home because the cat pan will fit along with a bed)
Baby Magic Shampoo
Brushes and combs
Cleanup supplies such as a stain remover, paper towels, and deodorizing spray
Washable bed and blankets (I use old towels that I don't mind washing a lot)
Your first veterinarian visit
In addition to providing your new dog optimum nutrition, scheduling regular visits to the veterinarian is key to ensuring his health and
happiness. Here’s how to prepare.
GETTING READY
If you have time, introduce your dog to his new veterinarian by scheduling
an orientation-only visit. Let the veterinarian’s staff pet him and offer treats. If you project a calm, upbeat attitude, your dog will likely remain calm, too. Some experts recommend scheduling these “just dropping in” visits on a regular basis.
THE FIRST APPOINTMENT
At your dog’s first appointment, you’ll be asked basic information, and a staff member may weigh your pet. Keeping track of his weight can help identify problems associated with weight loss or gain.
Then you’ll meet the veterinarian. You’ll be asked about your dog’s diet and lifestyle. Next you’ll get to ask about your dog’s care. Then the veterinarian will examine him and may administer his first vaccinations. Ask about heart worm prevention and flea control products.
THE VACCINATION SCHEDULE
The information you provided will help the veterinarian determine the kinds of diseases your dog may be exposed to and plan an appropriate vaccination schedule.
Schedules vary, but it’s important for puppies to get a series of vaccinations to provide optimal protection against infectious diseases like the ones listed at right. The series is begun as early as 6 weeks old, with boosters given 3 to 4 weeks apart (6 WK, 9 WK AND 12WK) and yearly until they are 12 to 16 years old.
Canine Distemper
Adenovirus-2
Canine Parainfluenza (DA2P)
Canine Parvovirus (CPV)
SPAYING AND NEUTERING
To help your dog live a longer, healthier life (and control pet overpopulation), spaying or neutering is important. Your veterinarian will recommend the appropriate age, generally around 5-6 months.
BATHING YOUR PUPPY
A brushing each week will keep your pup’s coat in good condition, but if he gets really dirty or has acquired an odor, use these steps to bathe your dog:
Step 1: Brush your pup and then gently plug each ear with a cotton ball. Place him in a tub or basin with a nonskid surface. Hold the collar firmly, then pour lukewarm water over his body, being careful to leave his head dry.Cold water will chill your dog and make bathing an unpleasant experience.
Step 2: Use a baby shampoo to soap the body. Work up a lather, talking to your puppy and praising him as you work. When he’s well lathered, move to his head, being careful to keep shampoo out of his eyes, ears and mouth.
Step 3: Rinse and dry the head, then rinse the body. When the water runs clear, rinse one more time. Dry your pup with towels and then remove the cotton plugs from his ears. If your dog has healthy skin, you can dry him further with a hair dryer set on low or warm.
Start out on the right foot by doing all you can to ease your dog’s adjustment to his new family. Here’s the information you need to help make your friend’s stay in his new home safe and enjoyable.
DOG-PROOF YOUR HOME
Whether your new friend is a puppy or adult dog, here are important tips to help keep him out of harm’s way:
Keep household cleaners and chemicals out of his reach.
Restrict access to plants that are dangerous to dogs: poinsettias, azaleas, rhododendrons, dumb cane, Japanese yew, oleander and English ivy.
Store breakable items safely out of the way.
Hide or cover electrical cords so he won’t chew on them.
Safely store antifreeze, engine oil, laundry detergents and lawn chemicals.
Keep kids’ toys off the floor—since some parts may be small enough for your puppy or dog to swallow.
Use a cover and/or protective fencing if you have a pool or hot tub.
CHOOSING A NAME
Here are a few tips to consider before naming your new dog:
Names should be short. A two-syllable name is best because it’s brief and won’t be confused with one-syllable commands such as “No” or “Sit.”
Be consistent. All family members should use the same name—don’t use confusing nicknames or variations.
Reward your dog’s recognition of his name with lots of praise and play.
WELCOME HOME
As the “parent” of a puppy or new adult dog, it’s important for you to help him get used to his new surroundings. Think of him more as an infant than a pet: He’ll need plenty of patience, supervision and love. Here’s how you can help him adjust.
Bring him home when it’s quiet and you don’t have company. Also, choose a time when your routine is normal.
Show him the area of your yard that will be his bathroom before bringing him inside. Then take him there whenever he goes outside.
Give your dog his own room where you can keep his crate, complete with bedding and chew toys (leave the crate’s door open). He’ll feel safe in his “den.” Put down newspaper for accidents. (See pages 14-15 for more housebreaking tips.)
Supervise your puppy at all times, and play with him several times a day. You’ll help establish yourself as the pack leader.
Give him bathroom breaks every few hours and right after eating, drinking, sleeping and playing (watch for signals like sniffing or circling). Never punish your dog for accidents; instead, praise him when he goes in his outdoor spot.
GETTING EXERCISE
An appropriate amount of exercise will help promote your new dog’s good behavior and assist you in training him. Talk with your veterinarian about how much daily exercise your breed typically needs. Some dogs are just naturally more high-energy, and need more exercise than others. Schedule family members to exercise your dog throughout the day. I do not recommend outside walking until all shots have been completed which is 12 weeks of age.
MEETING CHILDREN
You should have no trouble at all encouraging your children to play with your new dog. Still, you’ll want to supervise his first interactions with your kids and set playtime limits—15-20 minutes two or three times a day. Here are still more ground rules to explain:
No rough teasing or playing. Tell your kids that tail-pulling and teasing can lead to bad habits like jumping up.
Be gentle. Tell kids never to shout at the dog, even if he does something wrong. Explain that dogs can be startled by loud noises.
INTRODUCING OTHER PETS
Here’s how to help him meet your resident animals:
Do it gradually. Keep them separated for the first few days.
Keep him safely in his crate (or behind an expandable doorway gate) as you supervise their first meeting.
After several days of sniffing each other out, let your resident pet enter the den while your new dog is out of his crate.
Giving your new dog the appropriate amount of exercise.
Supplies you’ll need
Have these supplies on hand before you bring your dog home with you.
Teething toys
Stainless-steel non-tipping food and water bowls
ID tags with the contact information for yourself and your veterinarian
A size small collar and a 6-foot leather or nylon leash
Wire Crate 24x36 (this is great for when they first get home because the cat pan will fit along with a bed)
Baby Magic Shampoo
Brushes and combs
Cleanup supplies such as a stain remover, paper towels, and deodorizing spray
Washable bed and blankets (I use old towels that I don't mind washing a lot)
Your first veterinarian visit
In addition to providing your new dog optimum nutrition, scheduling regular visits to the veterinarian is key to ensuring his health and
happiness. Here’s how to prepare.
GETTING READY
If you have time, introduce your dog to his new veterinarian by scheduling
an orientation-only visit. Let the veterinarian’s staff pet him and offer treats. If you project a calm, upbeat attitude, your dog will likely remain calm, too. Some experts recommend scheduling these “just dropping in” visits on a regular basis.
THE FIRST APPOINTMENT
At your dog’s first appointment, you’ll be asked basic information, and a staff member may weigh your pet. Keeping track of his weight can help identify problems associated with weight loss or gain.
Then you’ll meet the veterinarian. You’ll be asked about your dog’s diet and lifestyle. Next you’ll get to ask about your dog’s care. Then the veterinarian will examine him and may administer his first vaccinations. Ask about heart worm prevention and flea control products.
THE VACCINATION SCHEDULE
The information you provided will help the veterinarian determine the kinds of diseases your dog may be exposed to and plan an appropriate vaccination schedule.
Schedules vary, but it’s important for puppies to get a series of vaccinations to provide optimal protection against infectious diseases like the ones listed at right. The series is begun as early as 6 weeks old, with boosters given 3 to 4 weeks apart (6 WK, 9 WK AND 12WK) and yearly until they are 12 to 16 years old.
Canine Distemper
Adenovirus-2
Canine Parainfluenza (DA2P)
Canine Parvovirus (CPV)
SPAYING AND NEUTERING
To help your dog live a longer, healthier life (and control pet overpopulation), spaying or neutering is important. Your veterinarian will recommend the appropriate age, generally around 5-6 months.
BATHING YOUR PUPPY
A brushing each week will keep your pup’s coat in good condition, but if he gets really dirty or has acquired an odor, use these steps to bathe your dog:
Step 1: Brush your pup and then gently plug each ear with a cotton ball. Place him in a tub or basin with a nonskid surface. Hold the collar firmly, then pour lukewarm water over his body, being careful to leave his head dry.Cold water will chill your dog and make bathing an unpleasant experience.
Step 2: Use a baby shampoo to soap the body. Work up a lather, talking to your puppy and praising him as you work. When he’s well lathered, move to his head, being careful to keep shampoo out of his eyes, ears and mouth.
Step 3: Rinse and dry the head, then rinse the body. When the water runs clear, rinse one more time. Dry your pup with towels and then remove the cotton plugs from his ears. If your dog has healthy skin, you can dry him further with a hair dryer set on low or warm.
Monday, December 24, 2007
***Create a Pet-Safe Home*****
When safeguarding your house, it's easy to forget about the family pet. Ana T. Pieruccetti crawls on all fours in any rooms she designates for critters. "When I analyze a home, I need to be curious like animals are," says Pieruccetti, owner of Lucca Bella dog spa in Dallas. Kitchens and bathrooms — high-traffic areas for animals — contain chemicals that can be dangerous. Secure all liquids in cabinets with childproof locks. Countertops and hot stoves are an easy reach for gravity-defying felines. The lazy dog's favorite toilet "water bowls" can sicken a pet no matter how clean you think your bathroom is.
If your animals are your favorite office mates, make your home office pet-friendly. Job number one is to secure electrical cords. You can wrap cords in cable snakes or sliced tubing, put them behind bureaus, hide them under carpets or tape them down. Pet supply stores sell bitter-tasting solutions to deter chewing. If your animals spend time in the garage, place any chemicals — especially antifreeze — out of reach. Antifreeze is sweet-tasting to dogs and cats, but less than a teaspoon of the chemical is highly toxic. And use antifreeze with propylene glycol, which is safer for animals if ingested in small amounts and better for the environment.
Your pets can share the holidays with you, but many of the foods that humans love can make animals sick. Foods to watch out for include chocolate, macadamia nuts, onions, raisins, grapes and alcohol. Coffee grounds and cigarette butts are hazards as well. The best bet is to clear plates and empty the sink of leftovers. Place all garbage in cans with secure or locked lids. It's also a good idea to put a skirt around live Christmas trees to prevent your pet from drinking from the tree stand. It's a tempting water bowl, but any chemicals in the tree will leach into the water. Low-hanging Christmas tree ornaments might be seen as toys, but they can break and injure your pet.
Half the fun of new kittens and puppies is watching them explore. Keep an eye out when loading the dryer or dishwasher, or when starting the car (bang on the hood), since cats love warm nooks. Sometimes homemade animal toys, like crumpled aluminum paper, strings, buttons and rawhide chews, can be dangerous; pieces can break off the toy and lodge in an animal's digestive tract. Your best bet is to supervise animals when they're playing with anything. De-icing salts can sicken dogs if they lick it off their paws; wipe post-walk paws with a damp cloth or buy pet-safe de-icers.
If you store clothes under the bed in bags, skip the mothballs, because they're highly toxic to animals. Also, cordon off areas with holes in the walls. Chicken wire is great for blocking hard-to-reach spaces where animals, especially cats, can get stuck or hurt themselves. A number of houseplants can also be dangerous to animals, and you can find detailed listings of poisonous houseplants online. Pieruccetti's list for a good pet first-aid kit includes Biocaine lotion, dog pads, alcohol pads, cold packs, a magnifying glass for removing anything stuck in paws, eyewash and an emergency blanket. If you're uneasy treating your pet, call your vet. Most have 24-hour emergency numbers if you have an injury that can't wait.
If your animals are your favorite office mates, make your home office pet-friendly. Job number one is to secure electrical cords. You can wrap cords in cable snakes or sliced tubing, put them behind bureaus, hide them under carpets or tape them down. Pet supply stores sell bitter-tasting solutions to deter chewing. If your animals spend time in the garage, place any chemicals — especially antifreeze — out of reach. Antifreeze is sweet-tasting to dogs and cats, but less than a teaspoon of the chemical is highly toxic. And use antifreeze with propylene glycol, which is safer for animals if ingested in small amounts and better for the environment.
Your pets can share the holidays with you, but many of the foods that humans love can make animals sick. Foods to watch out for include chocolate, macadamia nuts, onions, raisins, grapes and alcohol. Coffee grounds and cigarette butts are hazards as well. The best bet is to clear plates and empty the sink of leftovers. Place all garbage in cans with secure or locked lids. It's also a good idea to put a skirt around live Christmas trees to prevent your pet from drinking from the tree stand. It's a tempting water bowl, but any chemicals in the tree will leach into the water. Low-hanging Christmas tree ornaments might be seen as toys, but they can break and injure your pet.
Half the fun of new kittens and puppies is watching them explore. Keep an eye out when loading the dryer or dishwasher, or when starting the car (bang on the hood), since cats love warm nooks. Sometimes homemade animal toys, like crumpled aluminum paper, strings, buttons and rawhide chews, can be dangerous; pieces can break off the toy and lodge in an animal's digestive tract. Your best bet is to supervise animals when they're playing with anything. De-icing salts can sicken dogs if they lick it off their paws; wipe post-walk paws with a damp cloth or buy pet-safe de-icers.
If you store clothes under the bed in bags, skip the mothballs, because they're highly toxic to animals. Also, cordon off areas with holes in the walls. Chicken wire is great for blocking hard-to-reach spaces where animals, especially cats, can get stuck or hurt themselves. A number of houseplants can also be dangerous to animals, and you can find detailed listings of poisonous houseplants online. Pieruccetti's list for a good pet first-aid kit includes Biocaine lotion, dog pads, alcohol pads, cold packs, a magnifying glass for removing anything stuck in paws, eyewash and an emergency blanket. If you're uneasy treating your pet, call your vet. Most have 24-hour emergency numbers if you have an injury that can't wait.
Thursday, November 01, 2007
**Poisonous Plant List**
List of Most Poisonous Plants
A
Aconite
Agaric Mushroom
Alacia
Amaryllis bulbs
American Yew Apple (Seeds)
Apricot (Pits and Bark)
Autumn Crocus
Avocado
Azalea Balsam
B
Baneberry root
Bird of Paradise
Black Locust
Bleeding Heart
Blue Flag
Bluebonnet
Blue-green Algae
Boxwood
Bracken Fern
Broomcorn Grass
Buckeye
Buttercup
C
Cabbage
Caffeine
Caladium
Calla Lily
Candelabra Tree
Cardinal Flower
Castor Bean
Chalice Vine
Cherry (Leaves, twigs, seeds, pits)
Chestnut
Chinaberry Tree
Christmas Candle
Clematis
Cowslip
Croton
Crown of Thorns
D
Daffodil
Daphne
Datura
Deadly Amanita
Death Camas
Dumb Cane
E
Eggplant
Elderberry
Elephants Ear
English Ivy
English Yew False F
Ficus
Firethorn
Foxglove
G
Ghostweed
Glory Bean
Ground Cherry
H
Henbane Fly
Honeysuckle
Horsetail
Hyacinth
Hydrangea
I
Indian Licorice
Indian Turnip
Inkberry
Iris
J
Jack-in-Pulpit
Jasmine
Java Bean
Jimsonweed
Juniper
Juniper
L
Lantana
Laurel
Lily of the Valley
Lima bean
Lobelia
Locoweed Lords
Lupines
M
Mandrake
Mango Tree - wood, leaves, rind - (fruit safe)
Marijuana
Marsh Marigold
Mayapple
Meadow
Mescal Beans
Mistletoe
Mock Orange
Monkshood
Moonseed
Morning Glory
Mountain Laurel
Mushrooms N
Narcissus
Nightshade
Nutmeg
O
Oak (Foliage, acorns)
Oleander
Onion
P
Peach (Leaves, twigs, seeds)
Pear seeds
Pencil Tree
Periwinkle
Philodendron
Pigweed
Pine (Needles, twigs, sap)
Pointsetta
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Pokeweed
Potato (eyes, new shoots)
Pyracantha
R
Ranunculus
Red Maple
Rhubarb
Rosary Peas
S
Saffron
Sago Palms
Sandbox Tree
Scarlet
Skunk Cabbage
Snowdrop
Spindle Tree
Sweet Pea - seeds
T
Taro
Thornapple
Tobacco
Tomato All green parts
Trumpet
V
Virginia Bower Coral
Virginia Creeper
W
Water Hemlock
Western Yew
Wisteria
Accidents can happen all the time -- the key is to prevent them.
A
Aconite
Agaric Mushroom
Alacia
Amaryllis bulbs
American Yew Apple (Seeds)
Apricot (Pits and Bark)
Autumn Crocus
Avocado
Azalea Balsam
B
Baneberry root
Bird of Paradise
Black Locust
Bleeding Heart
Blue Flag
Bluebonnet
Blue-green Algae
Boxwood
Bracken Fern
Broomcorn Grass
Buckeye
Buttercup
C
Cabbage
Caffeine
Caladium
Calla Lily
Candelabra Tree
Cardinal Flower
Castor Bean
Chalice Vine
Cherry (Leaves, twigs, seeds, pits)
Chestnut
Chinaberry Tree
Christmas Candle
Clematis
Cowslip
Croton
Crown of Thorns
D
Daffodil
Daphne
Datura
Deadly Amanita
Death Camas
Dumb Cane
E
Eggplant
Elderberry
Elephants Ear
English Ivy
English Yew False F
Ficus
Firethorn
Foxglove
G
Ghostweed
Glory Bean
Ground Cherry
H
Henbane Fly
Honeysuckle
Horsetail
Hyacinth
Hydrangea
I
Indian Licorice
Indian Turnip
Inkberry
Iris
J
Jack-in-Pulpit
Jasmine
Java Bean
Jimsonweed
Juniper
Juniper
L
Lantana
Laurel
Lily of the Valley
Lima bean
Lobelia
Locoweed Lords
Lupines
M
Mandrake
Mango Tree - wood, leaves, rind - (fruit safe)
Marijuana
Marsh Marigold
Mayapple
Meadow
Mescal Beans
Mistletoe
Mock Orange
Monkshood
Moonseed
Morning Glory
Mountain Laurel
Mushrooms N
Narcissus
Nightshade
Nutmeg
O
Oak (Foliage, acorns)
Oleander
Onion
P
Peach (Leaves, twigs, seeds)
Pear seeds
Pencil Tree
Periwinkle
Philodendron
Pigweed
Pine (Needles, twigs, sap)
Pointsetta
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Pokeweed
Potato (eyes, new shoots)
Pyracantha
R
Ranunculus
Red Maple
Rhubarb
Rosary Peas
S
Saffron
Sago Palms
Sandbox Tree
Scarlet
Skunk Cabbage
Snowdrop
Spindle Tree
Sweet Pea - seeds
T
Taro
Thornapple
Tobacco
Tomato All green parts
Trumpet
V
Virginia Bower Coral
Virginia Creeper
W
Water Hemlock
Western Yew
Wisteria
Accidents can happen all the time -- the key is to prevent them.
Sunday, October 21, 2007
***Holiday Doggies***
Holidays are my favorite time of year. This section is for your photos of your favorite holiday doggie.
*****************************************
Judging by these pictures, I think she decided to be a Doggy Superhero for Halloween. Obviously, her super power is to shoot crazy laser beams out of her eyes when we take pictures of her! So have a fun Halloween!
Justin, Chels, and Lucy 10/07
***********************************************
Here is Barbie Princess Coco Chanel. If I can't dress my daughter in pink, I can dress my dog in it.
She is was a hit.
Donna 10/07
************************************************
 |
| Ballernia Lilly Belle Hutchins 10/10 |
*****************************************
Judging by these pictures, I think she decided to be a Doggy Superhero for Halloween. Obviously, her super power is to shoot crazy laser beams out of her eyes when we take pictures of her! So have a fun Halloween!
Justin, Chels, and Lucy 10/07
***********************************************
Here is Barbie Princess Coco Chanel. If I can't dress my daughter in pink, I can dress my dog in it.
She is was a hit.
Donna 10/07
************************************************
Sunday, September 02, 2007
New Puppy? Start Puppy Off Right
For your puppy to grow into a healthy, balanced dog, you must demonstrate leadership from day one.
New puppy owners often make the mistake of endlessly worrying about finding the right puppy treats or bed. They spend little or no time worrying about how or what they will teach their new puppy.
Yes, a puppy needs nutritious food and a safe, warm place to live. But another equally powerful and important biological necessity is the need for a strong pack leader to serve as the dominant source of alpha energy in their lives.
Puppies are naturally hard-wired to follow a pack leader. A pack leader is, by definition, strong, stable and consistent; traits many new puppy owners forget around their dogs. I have had clients who are strong leaders in their jobs, but, when they come home, they turn to mush with their dogs. Then they come to me, puzzled as to why their dog won’t behave.
Puppies sense our confidence levels and will take control if they perceive us as weak. When dogs or puppies take control, bad behaviors, such as excessive barking, leash-pulling, or anxiety, will develop.
The most important thing you can do is to become your puppy’s pack leader. This role doesn’t begin when your dog is six months old or when he’s bad. For your puppy to grow into a healthy, balanced dog, you must demonstrate leadership from day one.
Here are some important points to remember in your role as pack leader:
When getting a new pet, make sure to set aside time every day to provide mental exercise by maintaining rules, boundaries and limitations. When these needs are met, the affection you give to your dog will be channeled as a reward.
Create a schedule that includes a daily 45-minute power-walk in the morning. This is critical for your dog’s health, both physical and mental.
Enlist your whole family in the process of bringing a new dog home. Discuss what their responsibilities will be before the puppy arrives.
Make sure you find a breed that fits your lifestyle. For example, more active breeds, like hunting and herding dogs, require more physical exercise to stay physically and mentally content.
Always walk out the door ahead of your dog when leaving the house. This will show your dog who is in the leadership role.
On walks, make sure that your dog is not in front of you, pulling you down the street. Instead, keep your dog to your side or behind you. This will also demonstrate to your dog that you are the alpha figure.
Give the puppy something to do before you share food, water, toys or affection. This way the dog earns his treat. For example, have your puppy perform the Sit or Down command.
Set aside a budget for unexpected circumstances, like medical bills and training classes. A healthy, well-trained dog makes a wonderful pet.
A puppy will be set up to fail if his new family doesn’t learn these lessons before he arrives. Remember, puppies don’t crave a fancy treat or bed; they need you to become their stable pack leader to demonstrate love in a way they understand.
from Cesar Millan website
New puppy owners often make the mistake of endlessly worrying about finding the right puppy treats or bed. They spend little or no time worrying about how or what they will teach their new puppy.
Yes, a puppy needs nutritious food and a safe, warm place to live. But another equally powerful and important biological necessity is the need for a strong pack leader to serve as the dominant source of alpha energy in their lives.
Puppies are naturally hard-wired to follow a pack leader. A pack leader is, by definition, strong, stable and consistent; traits many new puppy owners forget around their dogs. I have had clients who are strong leaders in their jobs, but, when they come home, they turn to mush with their dogs. Then they come to me, puzzled as to why their dog won’t behave.
Puppies sense our confidence levels and will take control if they perceive us as weak. When dogs or puppies take control, bad behaviors, such as excessive barking, leash-pulling, or anxiety, will develop.
The most important thing you can do is to become your puppy’s pack leader. This role doesn’t begin when your dog is six months old or when he’s bad. For your puppy to grow into a healthy, balanced dog, you must demonstrate leadership from day one.
Here are some important points to remember in your role as pack leader:
When getting a new pet, make sure to set aside time every day to provide mental exercise by maintaining rules, boundaries and limitations. When these needs are met, the affection you give to your dog will be channeled as a reward.
Create a schedule that includes a daily 45-minute power-walk in the morning. This is critical for your dog’s health, both physical and mental.
Enlist your whole family in the process of bringing a new dog home. Discuss what their responsibilities will be before the puppy arrives.
Make sure you find a breed that fits your lifestyle. For example, more active breeds, like hunting and herding dogs, require more physical exercise to stay physically and mentally content.
Always walk out the door ahead of your dog when leaving the house. This will show your dog who is in the leadership role.
On walks, make sure that your dog is not in front of you, pulling you down the street. Instead, keep your dog to your side or behind you. This will also demonstrate to your dog that you are the alpha figure.
Give the puppy something to do before you share food, water, toys or affection. This way the dog earns his treat. For example, have your puppy perform the Sit or Down command.
Set aside a budget for unexpected circumstances, like medical bills and training classes. A healthy, well-trained dog makes a wonderful pet.
A puppy will be set up to fail if his new family doesn’t learn these lessons before he arrives. Remember, puppies don’t crave a fancy treat or bed; they need you to become their stable pack leader to demonstrate love in a way they understand.
from Cesar Millan website
Saturday, September 01, 2007
WHAT TO DO ABOUT THOSE MOUTHY PUPS!
Puppies are naturally biting machines. In a way, this is good because they learn to inhibit their jaw strength to exist with us fragile humans. Most mouthing is reflexive behavior. When a pup is touched, or even approached with a hand, the mouth is the natural means of responding. Puppies can be taught to inhibit this reaction. (It will help if you pet the puppy with long, firm strokes rather than quick pats.) Here are some ideas to help with this ouchy problem.
Grab a paw when your pup starts mouthing you. This distracts him from chewing on you-at which point you can praise him for being such a good dog. (Praising for good behavior is just as important as stopping the bad behavior.) Another idea is to holler “Ouch” in a squeaky voice and immediately leave the pup. After a minute, return and reward your pup’s good behavior by playing with him-immediately leaving if he starts biting again.
Teach your pup the “no-bite” or “stop it” commands. When he nips at you, take him by the jowls and lift his head up so you can look him in the eye for several seconds while you repeat the command. Release and ignore him. After a minute call him to you and praise him when he gets to you.
You can accustom your pup or dog to being grabbed and petted (valuable with children in the family) by giving a treat with one hands while gradually moving the other hand closer, giving a treat each time. Then start from the beginning with the other hand. Increase the speed of arm and hand and the squeeze (grab) of the dog. Another way to accustom the pup to hands moving toward his head or body is to scratch him on the chest or throat with one hand as your other hand moves into his visual field. This teaches the pup to inhibit his bite reflex when people and children grab at him.
If you have tried these methods conscientiously for a week or so with no improvement, you can move on to more negative methods. Try a solution of one part vinegar or Listerine to ten parts water in a spray bottle with a stream. When the puppy bites at your heels, you can squirt him in the mouth and scold in a low, growly voice to stop. Another method of negative reinforcement with a hard-mouthed puppy is to cause the puppy to bite himself. Put your hand under his muzzle and squeeze his lips into his teeth until he gives a squeak of pain. Then ignore the puppy for a minute and then call him over and praise him for doing a good recall.
These suggestions are successful with the normal mouthy puppy. A pup who bites with intent to hurt is an aggressive personality and is a different matter. Most pups, however, will try a nip or two and when they find out it’s not acceptable will stop such behavior.
Videos for help
http://www.perfectpaws.com/pupstuff.html
Grab a paw when your pup starts mouthing you. This distracts him from chewing on you-at which point you can praise him for being such a good dog. (Praising for good behavior is just as important as stopping the bad behavior.) Another idea is to holler “Ouch” in a squeaky voice and immediately leave the pup. After a minute, return and reward your pup’s good behavior by playing with him-immediately leaving if he starts biting again.
Teach your pup the “no-bite” or “stop it” commands. When he nips at you, take him by the jowls and lift his head up so you can look him in the eye for several seconds while you repeat the command. Release and ignore him. After a minute call him to you and praise him when he gets to you.
You can accustom your pup or dog to being grabbed and petted (valuable with children in the family) by giving a treat with one hands while gradually moving the other hand closer, giving a treat each time. Then start from the beginning with the other hand. Increase the speed of arm and hand and the squeeze (grab) of the dog. Another way to accustom the pup to hands moving toward his head or body is to scratch him on the chest or throat with one hand as your other hand moves into his visual field. This teaches the pup to inhibit his bite reflex when people and children grab at him.
If you have tried these methods conscientiously for a week or so with no improvement, you can move on to more negative methods. Try a solution of one part vinegar or Listerine to ten parts water in a spray bottle with a stream. When the puppy bites at your heels, you can squirt him in the mouth and scold in a low, growly voice to stop. Another method of negative reinforcement with a hard-mouthed puppy is to cause the puppy to bite himself. Put your hand under his muzzle and squeeze his lips into his teeth until he gives a squeak of pain. Then ignore the puppy for a minute and then call him over and praise him for doing a good recall.
These suggestions are successful with the normal mouthy puppy. A pup who bites with intent to hurt is an aggressive personality and is a different matter. Most pups, however, will try a nip or two and when they find out it’s not acceptable will stop such behavior.
Videos for help
http://www.perfectpaws.com/pupstuff.html
In Loving Memory
This is me with my very first schnauzer, Pepper. Pepper was purchsed from a pet store when i was 9 yrs old. This of course was a time when that was ok. He helped me through my teens years and lived a long life to the age of 14 yrs old. Love you Pepper and I will always thankful that you started my love for this wonderful breed. Donna Irizarry
xoxooxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxooxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
In Loving Memory of Beau 10/09 to 8/10
(Beau was out of Isabella and Cooper born 10/09/09, he was in a tragic accident and lost his life by being hit by a car. He is so missed by his parents and kids. Heaven sure did get a great little guy!!)
*~*~**~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
We have shared so much of ourselves with him and in who he was showed us how much love we had for one another. When any of us were down he was there to look at us with his puppy eyes and somehow the worries and pains we felt were not so bad. I remember when we adopted him that I was worried about how to train a puppy and what kind of food was best for him and all the hundreds of worries that I had, but after holding him in my arms for only a moment, I knew we would be right for one another.When we would be in the living room he would jump into our laps and curl up and it was as if he was meant to be there. My wife still unconsciously moves her legs over onto my side of the bed to leave room for him to curl up at her feet. The kids are thankfully still young enough that the full impact misses them, but they are saddened at times when they see one of his toys or something. When thinking back to memorable events and such, the first that stands out was during the Vacation Bible School this summer. We took Beau up to the local park with us when we took the kids, we were in summer classes at the time and he laid in the shade with me as I read some of my required reading. One of the ladies from the church came over and was petting him and he looked like he wanted to go and see the kids so we let her take him around the park. As she returned a little while later she mentioned how he only wanted to be near us or the kids and that as we walked if it was moving away from any of us he was not as happy to walk along. I found this to be very telling of his feelings for us. Thanks for talking to me and helping me cope.
Brad Sumner
*~*~*~**~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~~*~*~*~*~
My best friend closed his eyes last night,
As his head was in my hand.
The Doctors said he was in pain,
And it was hard for him to stand.
The thoughts that scurried through my head,
As I cradled him in my arms.
Were of his younger, puppy years,
And OH...his many charms.
Today, there was no gentle nudge
With an intense "I love you gaze",
Only a heart that's filled with tears
Remembering our joy filled days.
But an Angel just appeared to me,
And he said, "You should cry no more,
GOD also loves our canine friends,
HE's installed a 'doggy-door"! jan cooper '95
*********************************************************
This was our Sassy. We got Sassy when Brandon was 2 yrs old and after Megan was born she began sleeping in her room nightly. Sassy continued to slept with Megan until the morning that we found she had entered through heaven's doggy-door.
Sassy was a prissy little girl. She never weighed over 10 lbs and was always very healthy. She loved her stuffed animals (babies)and our socks.She loved a fresh load of laundry, just to lay hidden in them. I baked her treats with peanut butter in them, they were her favorite. She never barked much or chewed up anything. She was just a perfect angel in our eyes! We still miss our little girl.
The Irizarry's
***********************************************************
Remembering Molly
We lost Molly Mischief on August 8th, 2007.
Since David and I have no children, she was our child.
She was the joy in our lives for 15 years.
She was very aptly named for she was "Molly Mischief" her entire life.
She was all the things that people talk about their pets being. Official home greeter, sympathizer when you were sad, and cheerleader when you were happy. And whether other people want to believe or not, she talked.... sometimes to much. Her greatest frustration in life was the "illiteracy" of her owners. Sometimes you could see on her face... "are ya stupid", and then she would repeat what she said again.
In one of the poems I have included, it talks about "hanging on for one more day"... Molly did that ... for David.
David's birthday is August 7th. You see David will not have happy birthdays anymore. He had a nephew that he helped raise. They were inseparable until David and I married. Josh was one of the best kids you could ever meet. Good manners, good looking, very well liked by everyone he met. Josh died August 9th, 1998 at 16 years of age... 2 days after David's 30th birthday. Now Molly had gone the day after his 39th.
She had been very ill for a couple of weeks and we did not think she was going to survive, but we hoped... oh how we hoped. We both finally gave her permission to "go" if she wanted. We told her we would do everything in our power if she wanted to continue to fight, but on that last morning, she stopped eating and David put her to bed. She went on her own terms, at home, in her own time. We took her to the farm in East Texas for her final rest. She is now among the pines to run and play in the fields and chase squirrels or just sit in the sunshine which was her very favorite pastime...
I’ll always love you baby,
Terri Allen
Below are my favorite remembrances of Molly and some poetry I like.
The Surcease of Sorrow © By Kelly L. Delaney
Do not stand at my grave and weep.
I am not there, I do not sleep.
I am the sparkle in the snow.
I am the shredded leaves that blow.
I am the sunlight on growing grain.
I am the gentle summer rain. Molly.jpg
I am the quiet bird at night.
Circling about; Taking flight.
So do not stand at my grave and weep.
I am not there, I do not sleep.
May I go now?
Do you think the time is right?
May I say good-bye to pain filled days and endless nights?
I've lived my life and done my best, an example tried to be.
So can I take that step beyond and set my spirit free?
I didn't want to go at first, I fought with all my might.
But something seems to draw me now to a warm and living light.
I want to go. I really do.
It's difficult to stay.
But I will try as best I can to live just one more day.
To give you time to care for me and share your love and fears.
I know you're sad and afraid because I see your tears.
I'll not be far I promise that, and hope you'll always know that
My spirit will be close to you, wherever you may go.
Thank you so for loving me.
You know I love you too,
That's why it's hard to say good-bye and end this life with you.
So hold me now, just one more time and let me hear you say,
Because you care so much for me you let me go today.
Our Forever Pet
There's something missing in our home,
We feel it day and night.
We know it will take time and strength,
Before things feel quite right.
But just for now, we need to mourn,
Our hearts-they need to mend,
Though some may say it's "just a pet"
We know we've lost a friend.
You've brought such laughter to our home,
And richness to our days...
A constant friend through joy or loss,
With gentle loving ways.
Companion, pal, and confidante,
A friend we wont forget,
You'll live forever in our hearts,
Our sweet forever pet...
In Loving Memory of Beau 10/09 to 8/10
(Beau was out of Isabella and Cooper born 10/09/09, he was in a tragic accident and lost his life by being hit by a car. He is so missed by his parents and kids. Heaven sure did get a great little guy!!)
*~*~**~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
We have shared so much of ourselves with him and in who he was showed us how much love we had for one another. When any of us were down he was there to look at us with his puppy eyes and somehow the worries and pains we felt were not so bad. I remember when we adopted him that I was worried about how to train a puppy and what kind of food was best for him and all the hundreds of worries that I had, but after holding him in my arms for only a moment, I knew we would be right for one another.When we would be in the living room he would jump into our laps and curl up and it was as if he was meant to be there. My wife still unconsciously moves her legs over onto my side of the bed to leave room for him to curl up at her feet. The kids are thankfully still young enough that the full impact misses them, but they are saddened at times when they see one of his toys or something. When thinking back to memorable events and such, the first that stands out was during the Vacation Bible School this summer. We took Beau up to the local park with us when we took the kids, we were in summer classes at the time and he laid in the shade with me as I read some of my required reading. One of the ladies from the church came over and was petting him and he looked like he wanted to go and see the kids so we let her take him around the park. As she returned a little while later she mentioned how he only wanted to be near us or the kids and that as we walked if it was moving away from any of us he was not as happy to walk along. I found this to be very telling of his feelings for us. Thanks for talking to me and helping me cope.
Brad Sumner
*~*~*~**~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~~*~*~*~*~
My best friend closed his eyes last night,
As his head was in my hand.
The Doctors said he was in pain,
And it was hard for him to stand.
The thoughts that scurried through my head,
As I cradled him in my arms.
Were of his younger, puppy years,
And OH...his many charms.
Today, there was no gentle nudge
With an intense "I love you gaze",
Only a heart that's filled with tears
Remembering our joy filled days.
But an Angel just appeared to me,
And he said, "You should cry no more,
GOD also loves our canine friends,
HE's installed a 'doggy-door"! jan cooper '95
*********************************************************
This was our Sassy. We got Sassy when Brandon was 2 yrs old and after Megan was born she began sleeping in her room nightly. Sassy continued to slept with Megan until the morning that we found she had entered through heaven's doggy-door.
Sassy was a prissy little girl. She never weighed over 10 lbs and was always very healthy. She loved her stuffed animals (babies)and our socks.She loved a fresh load of laundry, just to lay hidden in them. I baked her treats with peanut butter in them, they were her favorite. She never barked much or chewed up anything. She was just a perfect angel in our eyes! We still miss our little girl.
The Irizarry's
***********************************************************
Remembering Molly
We lost Molly Mischief on August 8th, 2007.
Since David and I have no children, she was our child.
She was the joy in our lives for 15 years.
She was very aptly named for she was "Molly Mischief" her entire life.
She was all the things that people talk about their pets being. Official home greeter, sympathizer when you were sad, and cheerleader when you were happy. And whether other people want to believe or not, she talked.... sometimes to much. Her greatest frustration in life was the "illiteracy" of her owners. Sometimes you could see on her face... "are ya stupid", and then she would repeat what she said again.
In one of the poems I have included, it talks about "hanging on for one more day"... Molly did that ... for David.
David's birthday is August 7th. You see David will not have happy birthdays anymore. He had a nephew that he helped raise. They were inseparable until David and I married. Josh was one of the best kids you could ever meet. Good manners, good looking, very well liked by everyone he met. Josh died August 9th, 1998 at 16 years of age... 2 days after David's 30th birthday. Now Molly had gone the day after his 39th.
She had been very ill for a couple of weeks and we did not think she was going to survive, but we hoped... oh how we hoped. We both finally gave her permission to "go" if she wanted. We told her we would do everything in our power if she wanted to continue to fight, but on that last morning, she stopped eating and David put her to bed. She went on her own terms, at home, in her own time. We took her to the farm in East Texas for her final rest. She is now among the pines to run and play in the fields and chase squirrels or just sit in the sunshine which was her very favorite pastime...
I’ll always love you baby,
Terri Allen
Below are my favorite remembrances of Molly and some poetry I like.
The Surcease of Sorrow © By Kelly L. Delaney
Do not stand at my grave and weep.
I am not there, I do not sleep.
I am the sparkle in the snow.
I am the shredded leaves that blow.
I am the sunlight on growing grain.
I am the gentle summer rain. Molly.jpg
I am the quiet bird at night.
Circling about; Taking flight.
So do not stand at my grave and weep.
I am not there, I do not sleep.
May I go now?
Do you think the time is right?
May I say good-bye to pain filled days and endless nights?
I've lived my life and done my best, an example tried to be.
So can I take that step beyond and set my spirit free?
I didn't want to go at first, I fought with all my might.
But something seems to draw me now to a warm and living light.
I want to go. I really do.
It's difficult to stay.
But I will try as best I can to live just one more day.
To give you time to care for me and share your love and fears.
I know you're sad and afraid because I see your tears.
I'll not be far I promise that, and hope you'll always know that
My spirit will be close to you, wherever you may go.
Thank you so for loving me.
You know I love you too,
That's why it's hard to say good-bye and end this life with you.
So hold me now, just one more time and let me hear you say,
Because you care so much for me you let me go today.
Our Forever Pet
There's something missing in our home,
We feel it day and night.
We know it will take time and strength,
Before things feel quite right.
But just for now, we need to mourn,
Our hearts-they need to mend,
Though some may say it's "just a pet"
We know we've lost a friend.
You've brought such laughter to our home,
And richness to our days...
A constant friend through joy or loss,
With gentle loving ways.
Companion, pal, and confidante,
A friend we wont forget,
You'll live forever in our hearts,
Our sweet forever pet...
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Cesar’s Insight for Dog Lovers
Dogs are not humans. Before they receive love and affection, they need exercise, clear direction and leadership. Giving them love alone doesn’t create balance in their lives. Be a pack leader!
Rehabilitating a dog is not about “fixing” it. It’s about you, the owner, creating the intention for what you want, not what you’re feeling. Dogs pick up on feelings of fear, doubt or worry – and they will move to fill them by attempting to become dominant.
Practice unwavering leadership every day, especially on your walk. The energy you’re projecting internally is the message you’re sending to your dog.
Dedicate at least 45 minutes of time to the dog’s walk in the morning. Let the dog know you have a consistent pattern that you expect it to follow. Utilize your dog’s energy in a positive manner.
Don’t expect more from your dog(s) than your own children. Dogs need discipline, too. Give them rules, boundaries and limitations as well as love.
Avoid nurturing your dog’s fears or unstable mind. Imagine a successful scenario and hold it in your mind when dealing with your dog.
You are the source of your dog’s energy. You are the role model.
Challenge the dog’s mind – dogs want to know what to do with their lives. Let the dog work for your affection. Once in a calm/submissive state, your love will intensify those qualities in your dog.
Dogs need “on” and “off” time. Engage them fully in structured times together; then they can relax and avoid impatient or destructive behaviors.
Dogs show us how much we can learn – they live in the moment. Try it!
from Cesar Millan website
Rehabilitating a dog is not about “fixing” it. It’s about you, the owner, creating the intention for what you want, not what you’re feeling. Dogs pick up on feelings of fear, doubt or worry – and they will move to fill them by attempting to become dominant.
Practice unwavering leadership every day, especially on your walk. The energy you’re projecting internally is the message you’re sending to your dog.
Dedicate at least 45 minutes of time to the dog’s walk in the morning. Let the dog know you have a consistent pattern that you expect it to follow. Utilize your dog’s energy in a positive manner.
Don’t expect more from your dog(s) than your own children. Dogs need discipline, too. Give them rules, boundaries and limitations as well as love.
Avoid nurturing your dog’s fears or unstable mind. Imagine a successful scenario and hold it in your mind when dealing with your dog.
You are the source of your dog’s energy. You are the role model.
Challenge the dog’s mind – dogs want to know what to do with their lives. Let the dog work for your affection. Once in a calm/submissive state, your love will intensify those qualities in your dog.
Dogs need “on” and “off” time. Engage them fully in structured times together; then they can relax and avoid impatient or destructive behaviors.
Dogs show us how much we can learn – they live in the moment. Try it!
from Cesar Millan website
Friday, April 20, 2007
*~*Did you know?*~*~
This is just for fun...
What we use/do for a litter of 7 puppies (Stars Over Texas)!
This is pups only, not mom.
24 rolls of paper towels
1 large box trash bags
2 small rolls trash bags
5 bags of 40 lb Litter
1 washer of items daily (blankies,bed, washcloths stuffed toys and rugs)
40 lb Adult Food
20 lb Puppy Food
4 wormings per pup
7 shots
7 microchips/registration
Clip 16 toenails x 7 puppies 3 times
3 trips to Vet per pup, Flying pups get one more trip.
Poop from litter box 5 times per day(or more)x 35 days x 7 pups
Wash/Sterilize area daily
Clean water 3 x per day
Feedings 3 x per day
2 bottles of Lemon Pine sol
6 baths each x 7 pups
Small clippings x 7 pups in important areas
5 Full clippings before leaving
2 Around the edges clippings before leaving
AKC paperwork, New puppy packets, collars, blankies, book airlines, purchase crate(Rex)
Millions of kisses! :0)
What we use/do for a litter of 7 puppies (Stars Over Texas)!
This is pups only, not mom.
24 rolls of paper towels
1 large box trash bags
2 small rolls trash bags
5 bags of 40 lb Litter
1 washer of items daily (blankies,bed, washcloths stuffed toys and rugs)
40 lb Adult Food
20 lb Puppy Food
4 wormings per pup
7 shots
7 microchips/registration
Clip 16 toenails x 7 puppies 3 times
3 trips to Vet per pup, Flying pups get one more trip.
Poop from litter box 5 times per day(or more)x 35 days x 7 pups
Wash/Sterilize area daily
Clean water 3 x per day
Feedings 3 x per day
2 bottles of Lemon Pine sol
6 baths each x 7 pups
Small clippings x 7 pups in important areas
5 Full clippings before leaving
2 Around the edges clippings before leaving
AKC paperwork, New puppy packets, collars, blankies, book airlines, purchase crate(Rex)
Millions of kisses! :0)
Sunday, March 04, 2007
*~Temperature*~
A dog's normal temperature ranges between 101¡F and 102.5¡F. A body temperature of 103¡F (or slightly higher) is considered a fever, but is not always a sign of illness. Variations of one or two degrees from the norm can occur as a result of the dog's emotional state, activity or the environment.
Always use a human rectal thermometer, never an oral one, which could break. Shake it down to 96¡F or below and lubricate it with Vaseline or K-Y Jelly. Digital thermometers are preferred because they are easy to read and beep when ready.
It is easier to take a dog's temperature if you have help. If possible, have someone hold the dog's hindquarters so you can hold the tail and the thermometer. Lift the tail gently and slide the lubricated tip in to the anus. You will feel the rectal muscles resist and then finally relax. Talk to your dog calmly and soothingly. After three minutes, remove the thermometer and check the temperature.
If you are alone, grip the dog's lower body under your arm. With the same hand, lift the tail. Use your other hand to insert the thermometer.
A fever over 105¡F may indicate heatstroke. Call your veterinarian or an emergency pet hospital for help. You must give the dog a cold-water bath or shower immediately to lower body temperature. Never place a thermometer in a dog's mouth!
Always use a human rectal thermometer, never an oral one, which could break. Shake it down to 96¡F or below and lubricate it with Vaseline or K-Y Jelly. Digital thermometers are preferred because they are easy to read and beep when ready.
It is easier to take a dog's temperature if you have help. If possible, have someone hold the dog's hindquarters so you can hold the tail and the thermometer. Lift the tail gently and slide the lubricated tip in to the anus. You will feel the rectal muscles resist and then finally relax. Talk to your dog calmly and soothingly. After three minutes, remove the thermometer and check the temperature.
If you are alone, grip the dog's lower body under your arm. With the same hand, lift the tail. Use your other hand to insert the thermometer.
A fever over 105¡F may indicate heatstroke. Call your veterinarian or an emergency pet hospital for help. You must give the dog a cold-water bath or shower immediately to lower body temperature. Never place a thermometer in a dog's mouth!
*~Choking*~
What to do if your dog is choking
Additional Information:The American Veterinary Medical FoundationDog Owner's Guide
Signs that your dog is choking include convulsive coughing, choking noises, open mouth, protruding tongue and pawing at the mouth.
You may be able to dislodge a blocking object by application of a modified Heimlich maneuver. Position yourself behind the dog and wrap your arms or hands around the abdomen, beneath the rib cage. Apply a quick and forceful squeeze.
Try this several times. If not successful, thump the dog's chest several times on both sides with cupped hands. An alternative (providing the dog is small) is to hold the dog by the scruff of the neck and the hind legs. Turn the dog upside down and shake vigorously for one minute.
It will not take long for a choking dog to lose consciousness. Once it does, you will have approximately 60 seconds to examine the back of the mouth and throat before the heart stops beating. Extend the head and neck forward, open the mouth and pull out the tongue. Use a flashlight to examine the throat for foreign objects and remove any foreign object that you find (making sure you are not pulling on the internal throat structure).
Do not attempt to retrieve an object by projecting your finger into the dog's throat. This will only lodge the object further down the throat.
Additional Information:The American Veterinary Medical FoundationDog Owner's Guide
Signs that your dog is choking include convulsive coughing, choking noises, open mouth, protruding tongue and pawing at the mouth.
You may be able to dislodge a blocking object by application of a modified Heimlich maneuver. Position yourself behind the dog and wrap your arms or hands around the abdomen, beneath the rib cage. Apply a quick and forceful squeeze.
Try this several times. If not successful, thump the dog's chest several times on both sides with cupped hands. An alternative (providing the dog is small) is to hold the dog by the scruff of the neck and the hind legs. Turn the dog upside down and shake vigorously for one minute.
It will not take long for a choking dog to lose consciousness. Once it does, you will have approximately 60 seconds to examine the back of the mouth and throat before the heart stops beating. Extend the head and neck forward, open the mouth and pull out the tongue. Use a flashlight to examine the throat for foreign objects and remove any foreign object that you find (making sure you are not pulling on the internal throat structure).
Do not attempt to retrieve an object by projecting your finger into the dog's throat. This will only lodge the object further down the throat.
*~Drowning*~
What to do if your dog is rescued from drowning
Additional Information:vetmedicine.about.comAmerican Kennel Club
Dogs are excellent swimmers but can drown if they become exhausted or fall through ice. If your dog is drowning in a lake or pool, send for help and then try to reach the dog with your hand. If you must swim to the dog, take a floating device with you. Grab your dog by the tail or back of the neck, or let it grab on to the float. Swim back to shore.
Once you have reached the shore, hold the dog upside down by the hocks. Give a few sharp shakes to drain excess water from the lungs. Lay the dog on its side. Make sure there is no debris in the mouth. If the dog is not breathing, administer artificial respiration. If there is no heartbeat, apply CPR. When the dog is conscious, wrap it in a blanket. If the dog was rescued from ice water, treat it for hypothermia.
(Scroll text for information on CPR and first aid for hypothermia.)
CPR (when heart beat & breathing stops)
The same CPR technique used for humans can be adapted to save the life of a dog. CPR will provide heart contractions and breathing until the dog can perform these functions on its own. Heart and respiratory failure can occur after a trauma such as an electric shock, poison ingestion, a car accident or shock caused by a trauma. (If there is massive external or internal bleeding, CPR will not be effective since there is not enough fluid in the blood vessels to carry oxygen.)
CPR should not be performed on a dog that has a heartbeat. Nor should you perform artificial respiration on a dog that is already breathing unless the breaths are very unsteady and shallow. Watch the dog's sides to see if the chest is rising and falling.
Visual signs of no heartbeat include fully dilated pupils and cool, blue colored gums. Get familiar with pulse points on your healthy dog. Knowing how a normal heartbeat feels will help you in the event of an emergency.
If there is no heartbeat and no breath, CPR must be given to the dog. You will have to manually compress the heart and administer artificial respiration, one immediately after the other. A rhythm must develop between the heart compression and the artificial respiration.
An unconscious dog may become aggressive when it revives. Apply a muzzle -- always. You can use a strip of gauze, a strip of sheet, a necktie or even a sock. Wrap the cloth around the snout and tie under the jaw. Pull the ends back on each side of the dog's neck and tie behind the head. If the dog starts to vomit, remove the muzzle and reapply when he is finished.
Administer CPR as follows:
Lay the dog on its side. If there is no back or neck injury, pull the head and neck forward.
Open the dog's mouth and pull the tongue forward so it does not block the throat. Clear the mouth of any debris with your fingers and close the dog's mouth. Recheck the pulse.
Hold the dog's mouth and lips closed. Apply a muzzle.
Inhale and put your mouth over the dog's nose, forming an airtight seal. Exhale. Repeat the process 10 -15 times per minute.
Remove your mouth and apply heart massage in between breaths.
Place the heel of one hand over the dog's chest (in line with the back of its elbow). Place the heel of your other hand on top of the other.
Pump firmly and briskly. Hold each push for two counts and release for a count of one. (Use pressure appropriate for the size of the dog.)
Continue the massage until the heartbeat returns. Continue artificial respiration until the dog begins to breathe. If the dog does not respond after 15 minutes of CPR, revival is unlikely.
Hypothermia (Cold Injury)
Exposure to cold temperatures, especially if the dog is wet or ill can cause the onset of hypothermia. Symptoms include shivering, lethargy and eventual unconsciousness. The body will feel cold to the touch. Breathing is slow and shallow.
First aid starts with drying the dog and placing it in a warm place. Do not put the dog too close to a fire or heat source. Heating the dog too quickly can cause shock. Be careful not to burn the dog's skin. In the case of newborn puppies or if the dog has collapsed, place in warm bath water. When the puppy or dog is warm, remove it and dry thoroughly. Make sure the water does not become cooler than the dog or it will extract heat from the dog's body. Keep the dog in a draft-free, warm room for several hours. Warm liquids or warm food may be offered.
Additional Information:vetmedicine.about.comAmerican Kennel Club
Dogs are excellent swimmers but can drown if they become exhausted or fall through ice. If your dog is drowning in a lake or pool, send for help and then try to reach the dog with your hand. If you must swim to the dog, take a floating device with you. Grab your dog by the tail or back of the neck, or let it grab on to the float. Swim back to shore.
Once you have reached the shore, hold the dog upside down by the hocks. Give a few sharp shakes to drain excess water from the lungs. Lay the dog on its side. Make sure there is no debris in the mouth. If the dog is not breathing, administer artificial respiration. If there is no heartbeat, apply CPR. When the dog is conscious, wrap it in a blanket. If the dog was rescued from ice water, treat it for hypothermia.
(Scroll text for information on CPR and first aid for hypothermia.)
CPR (when heart beat & breathing stops)
The same CPR technique used for humans can be adapted to save the life of a dog. CPR will provide heart contractions and breathing until the dog can perform these functions on its own. Heart and respiratory failure can occur after a trauma such as an electric shock, poison ingestion, a car accident or shock caused by a trauma. (If there is massive external or internal bleeding, CPR will not be effective since there is not enough fluid in the blood vessels to carry oxygen.)
CPR should not be performed on a dog that has a heartbeat. Nor should you perform artificial respiration on a dog that is already breathing unless the breaths are very unsteady and shallow. Watch the dog's sides to see if the chest is rising and falling.
Visual signs of no heartbeat include fully dilated pupils and cool, blue colored gums. Get familiar with pulse points on your healthy dog. Knowing how a normal heartbeat feels will help you in the event of an emergency.
If there is no heartbeat and no breath, CPR must be given to the dog. You will have to manually compress the heart and administer artificial respiration, one immediately after the other. A rhythm must develop between the heart compression and the artificial respiration.
An unconscious dog may become aggressive when it revives. Apply a muzzle -- always. You can use a strip of gauze, a strip of sheet, a necktie or even a sock. Wrap the cloth around the snout and tie under the jaw. Pull the ends back on each side of the dog's neck and tie behind the head. If the dog starts to vomit, remove the muzzle and reapply when he is finished.
Administer CPR as follows:
Lay the dog on its side. If there is no back or neck injury, pull the head and neck forward.
Open the dog's mouth and pull the tongue forward so it does not block the throat. Clear the mouth of any debris with your fingers and close the dog's mouth. Recheck the pulse.
Hold the dog's mouth and lips closed. Apply a muzzle.
Inhale and put your mouth over the dog's nose, forming an airtight seal. Exhale. Repeat the process 10 -15 times per minute.
Remove your mouth and apply heart massage in between breaths.
Place the heel of one hand over the dog's chest (in line with the back of its elbow). Place the heel of your other hand on top of the other.
Pump firmly and briskly. Hold each push for two counts and release for a count of one. (Use pressure appropriate for the size of the dog.)
Continue the massage until the heartbeat returns. Continue artificial respiration until the dog begins to breathe. If the dog does not respond after 15 minutes of CPR, revival is unlikely.
Hypothermia (Cold Injury)
Exposure to cold temperatures, especially if the dog is wet or ill can cause the onset of hypothermia. Symptoms include shivering, lethargy and eventual unconsciousness. The body will feel cold to the touch. Breathing is slow and shallow.
First aid starts with drying the dog and placing it in a warm place. Do not put the dog too close to a fire or heat source. Heating the dog too quickly can cause shock. Be careful not to burn the dog's skin. In the case of newborn puppies or if the dog has collapsed, place in warm bath water. When the puppy or dog is warm, remove it and dry thoroughly. Make sure the water does not become cooler than the dog or it will extract heat from the dog's body. Keep the dog in a draft-free, warm room for several hours. Warm liquids or warm food may be offered.
*~No No Plants/First Aid*~
PLANTS (assorted common household and garden plants)
Additional Information:Protecting your pets from poisonAmerican Veterinary Medical Association
Dieffenbachia, Philodendron & Caladium can cause problems in the dog's upper gastrointestinal tract. Do not induce vomiting. Give milk or water to rinse the dog's mouth and throat. Take the cat to the veterinarian immediately.
Amaryllis, Daffodil, Mistletoe, Tulip, Wisteria, English Ivy, Alfalfa, Beech, Iris, Bird of Paradise, Crown of Thorns, Honeysuckle, Castor Bean, Nightshades & the Potato's green parts and eyes cause irritation in the lower gastrointestinal tract that can lead to death. Induce vomiting (give 1 teaspoon syrup of ipecac or 1 tablespoon of a 1:1 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and water). Follow with a crushed tablet of activated charcoal. (Activated charcoal tablets can be purchased at a drug store and should be kept in your pet's first aid kit.) Take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.
Foxglove, Lily of the Valley, Oleander, Monkshood & Larkspur affect the dog's cardiovascular system. The digitalis glycosides in these plants have a severe depressant effect on the heart. Take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.
Yews, Tobacco, Hemlock, Rhubarb, Belladonna, Jimsonweed, Chinaberry & Morning Glory affect the dog's nervous system. Induce vomiting (give 1 teaspoon syrup of ipecac or 1 tablespoon of a 1:1 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and water). Take the dog to the veterinarian immediately. Specific antidotes may be needed to counteract the effects of the poisonous chemicals found in these plants.
If you discover that your dog has been eating a houseplant or suspicious outdoor plant call your poison control center and get veterinary help. If you don't know the name of the plant, take a sample of it to the veterinarian.
To prevent plant poisoning do not keep poisonous plants in your home or yard. Keep dried arrangements out of reach. Be sure your puppy has plenty of safe chew toys.
Additional Information:Protecting your pets from poisonAmerican Veterinary Medical Association
Dieffenbachia, Philodendron & Caladium can cause problems in the dog's upper gastrointestinal tract. Do not induce vomiting. Give milk or water to rinse the dog's mouth and throat. Take the cat to the veterinarian immediately.
Amaryllis, Daffodil, Mistletoe, Tulip, Wisteria, English Ivy, Alfalfa, Beech, Iris, Bird of Paradise, Crown of Thorns, Honeysuckle, Castor Bean, Nightshades & the Potato's green parts and eyes cause irritation in the lower gastrointestinal tract that can lead to death. Induce vomiting (give 1 teaspoon syrup of ipecac or 1 tablespoon of a 1:1 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and water). Follow with a crushed tablet of activated charcoal. (Activated charcoal tablets can be purchased at a drug store and should be kept in your pet's first aid kit.) Take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.
Foxglove, Lily of the Valley, Oleander, Monkshood & Larkspur affect the dog's cardiovascular system. The digitalis glycosides in these plants have a severe depressant effect on the heart. Take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.
Yews, Tobacco, Hemlock, Rhubarb, Belladonna, Jimsonweed, Chinaberry & Morning Glory affect the dog's nervous system. Induce vomiting (give 1 teaspoon syrup of ipecac or 1 tablespoon of a 1:1 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and water). Take the dog to the veterinarian immediately. Specific antidotes may be needed to counteract the effects of the poisonous chemicals found in these plants.
If you discover that your dog has been eating a houseplant or suspicious outdoor plant call your poison control center and get veterinary help. If you don't know the name of the plant, take a sample of it to the veterinarian.
To prevent plant poisoning do not keep poisonous plants in your home or yard. Keep dried arrangements out of reach. Be sure your puppy has plenty of safe chew toys.
Saturday, March 03, 2007
Ten Most Common Pet Poisons
Each year, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center receives tens of thousands of calls involving animal exposures to potentially poisonous substances. In 2005, the Center managed more than 100,000 calls pertaining to a seemingly inexhaustible variety of items. Below is a compilation of the types of calls that the Center assists with, listed in order of the frequency reported:
Human Medications: In 2005, more than 46,000 calls involving common human drugs such as painkillers, cold medications, antidepressants and dietary supplements were managed by the Center. "Ingestions of certain medications could be very harmful or even fatal to pets," cautions Dr. Steven Hansen, Senior Vice-President of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. "Owners should never give their pet any medication without the direction of a veterinarian, as even 1 extra-strength acetaminophen can be deadly to a cat, and just 4 regular-strength ibuprofen can lead to serious kidney problems in a 10-pound dog." Medications should always be stored in a secure cabinet above the counter and out of the reach of pets.
Insecticides: Over 21,000 cases pertaining to products used to kill fleas, ticks and other insects were handled last year. "While there are products for eliminating fleas, ticks and other pesky bugs that are safe for use in households with pets, a key factor in their safe use is reading and following label instructions exactly," advises Dr. Hansen. "Some species of animals can be particularly sensitive to certain types of insecticides, so it is vital to never use any product not specifically formulated for your pet." It is also a good idea to consult with your pet's veterinarian before beginning any flea and tick control program.
Rodenticides: In 2005, approximately 6,900 calls about rat and mouse poisons were received. Depending on the type of rodenticide, ingestions can lead to potentially life-threatening problems including bleeding, seizures, or even damage to the kidneys or other vital organs. "Should pet owners opt to use a rodenticide around their home, they should make sure that the bait is placed only in areas completely inaccessible to their animals," Dr. Hansen instructs.
Veterinary Medications: Close to 6,200 cases involving animal-related preparations such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, heartworm preventives, dewormers, antibiotics, vaccines, and nutritional supplements were managed by the Center last year. "Although these products are formulated for use in pets, it is very important to always read and follow label directions for use exactly," advises Dr. Hansen. "As with flea and tick preparations, many medications are intended for use in certain species only, and potentially serious problems could result if given to the wrong animal or at too high of a dose."
Household Cleaners: In 2005, approximately 5,200 calls pertaining to cleaning agents such as bleaches, detergents and disinfectants were received. "Household cleaners can be quite effective in disinfecting surfaces in the home when used appropriately," says Dr. Hansen, "but gastrointestinal irritation or even severe oral burns could result with some cleaners depending on the circumstances of exposure." Additionally, irritation to the respiratory tract may be possible if a product becomes inhaled. "All household cleaners and other chemicals should be stored in a secure location well out of the reach of pets," Dr. Hansen recommends. When cleaning your pet's food and water bowls, crate or other habitat, a mild soap such as a hand dishwashing detergent along with hot water is a good choice over products containing potentially harsh chemicals.
Herbicicides: Around 4,600 calls pertaining to various types of herbicides came through the Center's lines last year. Most herbicides are considered to be relatively safe when used appropriately. However, directions such as "keep animals away from treated area until dry" need to be adhered to in order to avoid the potential for problems such as damage to desirable vegetation, minor skin irritation or stomach upset if ingested.
Plants: Over 4,400 cases involving plants were handled by the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center in 2005, including such varieties as lilies, azalea, rhododendron, sago palm, kalanchoe and schefflera, among others. "There are many different species of plants that could be harmful to pets if consumed in large enough quantities," cautions Dr. Hansen. "For example, just one or two sago palm nuts can cause vomiting, diarrhea, depression, seizures, and even liver failure, while lilies are highly toxic to cats and even in small amounts can produce life-threatening kidney failure." While poisonous plants should certainly be kept away from pets, it is also a good idea to discourage animals from nibbling on any variety, as even non-toxic plants could produce minor stomach upset if eaten.
Chocolate: More than 2,600 chocolate calls were received by the Center last year. Depending on the type, chocolate can contain large amounts of fat and caffeine-like substances known as methylxanthines. If ingested in significant amounts, chocolate could potentially cause vomiting, diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst and urination, hyperactivity and in severe cases, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures, and could even be fatal. "Typically, the darker the chocolate, the greater the potential for poisoning," says Dr. Hansen. "Baking chocolate contains the highest amount of methylxanthines, and just two ounces could cause serious problems for a 10 pound dog."
Home Improvement Products: In 2005, approximately 1,800 cases involving paint, solvents, expanding glues, and other physical hazards were managed. While the majority of water-based paints are low in toxic potential, stomach upset is still possible, and artist's paints can contain heavy metals that could be poisonous if consumed in a large quantity. Solvents can be very irritating to the gastrointestinal tract, eyes and skin, and could also produce central nervous system depression if ingested, or pneumonia if inhaled. "Prevention is really key to avoiding problems from accidental exposures," says Dr. Hansen. "Pet owners should keep pets out of areas where home improvement projects are occurring, and of course, label directions should always be followed when using any product."
Fertilizers: More than 1,700 calls pertaining to plant fertilizers were handled last year. In general, most fertilizers are fairly low in toxicity. However, the consumption of significant amounts can lead to vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal discomfort. Additionally, some fertilizer formulations may also contain insecticides, which could potentially lead to further problems if eaten.Please visit the AKC website for a useful list of plants. http://http://www.akc.org/news/index.cfm?article_id=2980
Human Medications: In 2005, more than 46,000 calls involving common human drugs such as painkillers, cold medications, antidepressants and dietary supplements were managed by the Center. "Ingestions of certain medications could be very harmful or even fatal to pets," cautions Dr. Steven Hansen, Senior Vice-President of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. "Owners should never give their pet any medication without the direction of a veterinarian, as even 1 extra-strength acetaminophen can be deadly to a cat, and just 4 regular-strength ibuprofen can lead to serious kidney problems in a 10-pound dog." Medications should always be stored in a secure cabinet above the counter and out of the reach of pets.
Insecticides: Over 21,000 cases pertaining to products used to kill fleas, ticks and other insects were handled last year. "While there are products for eliminating fleas, ticks and other pesky bugs that are safe for use in households with pets, a key factor in their safe use is reading and following label instructions exactly," advises Dr. Hansen. "Some species of animals can be particularly sensitive to certain types of insecticides, so it is vital to never use any product not specifically formulated for your pet." It is also a good idea to consult with your pet's veterinarian before beginning any flea and tick control program.
Rodenticides: In 2005, approximately 6,900 calls about rat and mouse poisons were received. Depending on the type of rodenticide, ingestions can lead to potentially life-threatening problems including bleeding, seizures, or even damage to the kidneys or other vital organs. "Should pet owners opt to use a rodenticide around their home, they should make sure that the bait is placed only in areas completely inaccessible to their animals," Dr. Hansen instructs.
Veterinary Medications: Close to 6,200 cases involving animal-related preparations such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, heartworm preventives, dewormers, antibiotics, vaccines, and nutritional supplements were managed by the Center last year. "Although these products are formulated for use in pets, it is very important to always read and follow label directions for use exactly," advises Dr. Hansen. "As with flea and tick preparations, many medications are intended for use in certain species only, and potentially serious problems could result if given to the wrong animal or at too high of a dose."
Household Cleaners: In 2005, approximately 5,200 calls pertaining to cleaning agents such as bleaches, detergents and disinfectants were received. "Household cleaners can be quite effective in disinfecting surfaces in the home when used appropriately," says Dr. Hansen, "but gastrointestinal irritation or even severe oral burns could result with some cleaners depending on the circumstances of exposure." Additionally, irritation to the respiratory tract may be possible if a product becomes inhaled. "All household cleaners and other chemicals should be stored in a secure location well out of the reach of pets," Dr. Hansen recommends. When cleaning your pet's food and water bowls, crate or other habitat, a mild soap such as a hand dishwashing detergent along with hot water is a good choice over products containing potentially harsh chemicals.
Herbicicides: Around 4,600 calls pertaining to various types of herbicides came through the Center's lines last year. Most herbicides are considered to be relatively safe when used appropriately. However, directions such as "keep animals away from treated area until dry" need to be adhered to in order to avoid the potential for problems such as damage to desirable vegetation, minor skin irritation or stomach upset if ingested.
Plants: Over 4,400 cases involving plants were handled by the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center in 2005, including such varieties as lilies, azalea, rhododendron, sago palm, kalanchoe and schefflera, among others. "There are many different species of plants that could be harmful to pets if consumed in large enough quantities," cautions Dr. Hansen. "For example, just one or two sago palm nuts can cause vomiting, diarrhea, depression, seizures, and even liver failure, while lilies are highly toxic to cats and even in small amounts can produce life-threatening kidney failure." While poisonous plants should certainly be kept away from pets, it is also a good idea to discourage animals from nibbling on any variety, as even non-toxic plants could produce minor stomach upset if eaten.
Chocolate: More than 2,600 chocolate calls were received by the Center last year. Depending on the type, chocolate can contain large amounts of fat and caffeine-like substances known as methylxanthines. If ingested in significant amounts, chocolate could potentially cause vomiting, diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst and urination, hyperactivity and in severe cases, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures, and could even be fatal. "Typically, the darker the chocolate, the greater the potential for poisoning," says Dr. Hansen. "Baking chocolate contains the highest amount of methylxanthines, and just two ounces could cause serious problems for a 10 pound dog."
Home Improvement Products: In 2005, approximately 1,800 cases involving paint, solvents, expanding glues, and other physical hazards were managed. While the majority of water-based paints are low in toxic potential, stomach upset is still possible, and artist's paints can contain heavy metals that could be poisonous if consumed in a large quantity. Solvents can be very irritating to the gastrointestinal tract, eyes and skin, and could also produce central nervous system depression if ingested, or pneumonia if inhaled. "Prevention is really key to avoiding problems from accidental exposures," says Dr. Hansen. "Pet owners should keep pets out of areas where home improvement projects are occurring, and of course, label directions should always be followed when using any product."
Fertilizers: More than 1,700 calls pertaining to plant fertilizers were handled last year. In general, most fertilizers are fairly low in toxicity. However, the consumption of significant amounts can lead to vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal discomfort. Additionally, some fertilizer formulations may also contain insecticides, which could potentially lead to further problems if eaten.Please visit the AKC website for a useful list of plants. http://http://www.akc.org/news/index.cfm?article_id=2980
Thursday, March 01, 2007
~What is a puppy mill?
Puppy mills (known as puppy farms in the UK and Australia) are dog breeding operations that are considered to be disreputable and sometimes hazardous to the health of the animals due to the conditions of the breeding kennel. The term originated among critics of such operations. Small-scale operations where dogs are not available to health care or good sanitation are usually called backyard breeding; the terms are akin but not synonymous. The largest concentrations in the USA are allegedly in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania and rural Missouri.
Reputable breeders raise their animals in humane conditions, provide good socialization and often formal training, and adhere to the breed standard. They are knowledgeable about major health problems associated with their breed, and with the principles of genetics, frequently undertaking specific matings to produce or refine particular desirable characteristics in their dogs. They are also sensitive to the requirements of their breeding adults — who may also be breed or performance champions — and the puppies they produce. Reputable breeders frequently screen potential customers rigorously, and usually provide a pedigree and health guarantee with their puppies.
Although many responsible breeding operations tend to be small, size alone is not an indication that a particular operation is a puppy mill. Rather, puppy mills are characterized by ignoring duties that are standard among responsible dog breeders. They may keep their dogs in overcrowded, unclean or otherwise inappropriate surroundings. The puppies they produce may be improperly socialized or may suffer from health problems which are often not disclosed to purchasers. Their breeding animals may also suffer, with females sometimes forced to undergo repeated pregnancies too quickly to fully recuperate between them.
Puppy mill operators may misrepresent the breed of dog being sold, and adult puppy mill dogs may exhibit characteristics uncommon to their advertised breed. Unlike the puppies produced by reputable breeders, the vast majority of puppy mill animals are sold to pet stores. Puppy mill operators are frequently accused of being motivated only by profit rather than a commitment to the breed or any empathy for the animals in their care.
Purchasing dogs, especially those claimed to be purebred, from a pet store is strongly discouraged by reputable breeders and animal shelters. While many pet stores claim to purchase dogs from "local breeders" instead of puppy mills, this is often untrue or is a difference in name only, as reputable breeders generally do not sell animals to pet stores. The phrase "local breeder" may also refer to backyard breeders.
Schnauzers Of Taylor is proud to support the Companion Animal Protection Society.
http://www.caps-web.org/
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
NO PUPPYMILLS
We are very big advocates against puppymills and pet abuse. We donate large amounts yearly to try and put a stop to these operations.Please do not EVER buy a puppy from a petstore and be picky about your breeder just as if you were getting a child.
Here are some links you find helpful:
http://www.pet-abuse.com/pages/cruelty_database/local_search.php
http://stoppuppymills.org/
http://www.prisonersofgreed.org/
http://www.unitedagainstpuppymills.org/
***************************
Reputable breeders raise their animals in humane conditions, provide good socialization and often formal training, and adhere to the breed standard. They are knowledgeable about major health problems associated with their breed, and with the principles of genetics, frequently undertaking specific matings to produce or refine particular desirable characteristics in their dogs. They are also sensitive to the requirements of their breeding adults — who may also be breed or performance champions — and the puppies they produce. Reputable breeders frequently screen potential customers rigorously, and usually provide a pedigree and health guarantee with their puppies.
Although many responsible breeding operations tend to be small, size alone is not an indication that a particular operation is a puppy mill. Rather, puppy mills are characterized by ignoring duties that are standard among responsible dog breeders. They may keep their dogs in overcrowded, unclean or otherwise inappropriate surroundings. The puppies they produce may be improperly socialized or may suffer from health problems which are often not disclosed to purchasers. Their breeding animals may also suffer, with females sometimes forced to undergo repeated pregnancies too quickly to fully recuperate between them.
Puppy mill operators may misrepresent the breed of dog being sold, and adult puppy mill dogs may exhibit characteristics uncommon to their advertised breed. Unlike the puppies produced by reputable breeders, the vast majority of puppy mill animals are sold to pet stores. Puppy mill operators are frequently accused of being motivated only by profit rather than a commitment to the breed or any empathy for the animals in their care.
Purchasing dogs, especially those claimed to be purebred, from a pet store is strongly discouraged by reputable breeders and animal shelters. While many pet stores claim to purchase dogs from "local breeders" instead of puppy mills, this is often untrue or is a difference in name only, as reputable breeders generally do not sell animals to pet stores. The phrase "local breeder" may also refer to backyard breeders.
Schnauzers Of Taylor is proud to support the Companion Animal Protection Society.
http://www.caps-web.org/
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
NO PUPPYMILLS
We are very big advocates against puppymills and pet abuse. We donate large amounts yearly to try and put a stop to these operations.Please do not EVER buy a puppy from a petstore and be picky about your breeder just as if you were getting a child.
Here are some links you find helpful:
http://www.pet-abuse.com/pages/cruelty_database/local_search.php
http://stoppuppymills.org/
http://www.prisonersofgreed.org/
http://www.unitedagainstpuppymills.org/
***************************
Sunday, October 22, 2006
~About Schnauzers~
The American Miniature Schnauzer Club offers excellent information on schnauzers. From size to colors and grooming. Please take a look. If you have never had the opportunity to experience a schnauzer, you don't know what you have missed. Not only are they smart, loving and non-shedding but they are just like small people with fur. Until you have talked to them and had that head cock look, you just don't know the love they give and expect so little in return.
http://amsc.us/about.html
http://amsc.us/about.html
Friday, September 01, 2006
Tuesday, June 13, 2006
Senior Companion Animals
INTRODUCTION
Aging is a poorly understood and complex biologic process that is progressive and irreversible. However, age-associated pathologic changes and their effect on physiologic processes are manageable and possibly even preventable. The challenge to the practitioner is to differentiate normal aging from age-related disease and to minimize the impact of pathologic changes in our patients. With advancing knowledge of age-related diseases, combined with newer diagnostic testing and additional therapeutics options, veterinarians have numerous opportunities to better meet the challenges presented during the aging process and minimize or delay the impact of aging on our patients. The goal of the health care we provide our elderly patients must be to improve the quality of life, not just the length. With increasing veterinary competition and decreases in vaccine-associated income, addressing the needs of the aging patient can also be a significant profit center.
THE PROCESS OF AGING
Definition of Aging
Numerous definitions of aging exist. Dr. R. T. Goldston defines aging as “a complex biologic process resulting in progressive reduction of an individual’s ability to maintain homeostasis under internal physiologic and external environment stresses, thereby decreasing the individual’s viability and increasing its vulnerability to disease, and eventually causing its death.”4
Aging actually begins at birth. But aging is not a disease, rather the cumulative effects of time upon the physical, mental, and various organ systems. A patient’s age simply defines a point in time in that animal’s life. But that life stage dictates any client education issues, the preventative health care program, and disease risk assessment in that patient.
Signs of Aging
The common age-related changes in dogs and cats include dryness of mucosal tissues, progressive degeneration of organ function (lack of reserve), tissue hypoxia, cellular membrane alterations, decreased enzyme systems, decreased immune surveillance, and personality/behavioral changes (Table 1). These progressive changes are normal, expected, and represent the complex interactions aging has on bodily functions. Aging changes proceed at varying rates in different organ systems of the animal and may vary in degrees of clinical significance between individuals of the same age. In general, aging changes seen in older animals are fairly predictable. For example, the greying of the muzzle and thinning of the hair coat are consistent and early indicators of aging. Identifying various internal organ dysfunctions before they are blatantly obvious is more challenging.
LIFE STAGES
An animal’s life can easily be divided into four stages as follows:
Pediatric
Maintenance
Senior
Geriatric
However, disagreements arise when assigning specific age parameters to each life stage for cats and especially dogs. The various breeds have different rates of aging, with variable risk factors that results in significantly different life expectancies.
The pediatric life stage begins at birth and ends around one year of age. The next life stage is the maintenance period ending at around seven years of age. The senior period represents the life stage of transition between the adult and geriatric. The senior life stage signals the onset of detectable, progressive declines in physical condition, organ function, sensory function, mental function, and immunity.
In establishing age-related criterion for determining the onset of the geriatric period, size was the predominant factor according to a survey of ACVIM (American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine) and ABVP (American Board of Veterinary Practitioners) diplomates by Dr. Goldston. This group defined the beginning age of the geriatric patient3,4 as follows (also see Table 2):
Small breed dogs — 11.5 years
Medium breed dogs —10 years
Large breed dogs — 8.9 years
Giant breed dogs — 7.5 years
Cats — 12 years
The comparative age analogy chart (Table 3) provides a basis for client education of aging and age-related risks that allows the owner to better connect with the pet’s relative age.
The oldest dog on record was a mixed breed that lived to be 29 years old. The oldest cat was 39 years old.5 Although the maximum life span for most dogs is around 27 years, few ever reach age 20. In fact, the average life span of all dog breeds is reported to be only 13 years with large and giant breeds having a shorter life expectancy than small breeds.2 Cats housed indoors have an average lifespan of 14 years versus 3.5 years for cats that are kept outdoors1 Clearly there are a number of factors, most notably genetics, environmental, preventative health care, nutrition, and the human animal bond that can significantly influence aging and ultimate longevity.
CAUSES OF AGING
The underlying causes of why animals age are complex and have not been definitively determined. Recent advances in cellular and molecular biology have contributed significantly to our understanding of the fundamental mechanisms of aging in the domestic dog and cat and have given rise to four prominent subcelluar theories for the aging process (Table 4).
The cumulative cellular damage theory suggests that ionizing irradiation of genetic material (DNA, RNA), plus environmental pollutants and oxygen-derived free radical damage to subcelluar organelles underlies the aging process. This would support the use of antioxidants and/or free radical scavengers in an attempt to slow the aging process. Accumulations of intracellular substances such as lipofusion, glycosylated compounds, and beta amyloid in the central and peripheral nervous system affects the aging process in the waste product theory. The immunologic theory suggests various immunologic events such as antigen/antibody reactions and/or deceases in immune surveillance of infectious agents or neoplasia may also hasten the aging process. The genetic theory says that aging change for each cell is due to an intrinsic pre-programmed genetic code determined at conception. This specific gene acts as a "biologic clock" measuring either time or some repetitive cellular process such as cell division. At the predetermined time an alteration in the cells biochemical pathways results in the cellular dysfunction and eventual death.3
CHANGES DURING AGING
Common to all aging systems is progressive and irreversible change. However, the specific rate of aging change is less predictable and determined by numerous factors including genetics, nutrition, environment, immunity, stress, and disease.2 Knowledge of the common age-related changes and age-related pathologic changes allows the veterinarian to plan and manage more effective health care programs for elderly pets.
In the older dog, the integumentary system undergoes normal aging changes associated with cellular atrophy of the epidermis, dermis, and adnexal structures. Follicular atrophy results in fewer hair shafts; in addition, atrophy of the pigment-producing melanocytes results in greying of the remaining hairs. The hair coat becomes dry, scaly, and dull from decreased quantity and quality (more waxy) of sebum production. The skin thickens and becomes less pliable with age. The nose and footpads become hyperkeratotic and the nails are longer and more brittle.7,8
Dental disease is the most common age-related change in the alimentary system. Dental calculus and tartar accompanied by varying degrees of periodontal disease and tooth loss also increases with age. Fatty infiltration of the salivary glands results in decreased saliva. Appetite may be suppressed from taste bud atrophy and decreased sensation of smell. Esophageal function is decreased by neuronalloss. The esophageal muscle loses tone and may fail to adequately relax at the cardia. The ability to secrete hydrochloric acid by the parietal cells is decreased as is gastric epithelial turnover. Hepatic function may decrease as intracellular fat droplets accumulate in the hepatocytes and the number of hepatocytes decrease. Colonic motility may decrease with age and,combined with drier colonic mucosa, predis-poses the older pet to constipation.7,8
A gradual decline in renal function is a normal part of aging. Because the kidneys have such a reserve capacity,any decline in functional nephrons may be insignificant. However, renal failure is the third leading cause of death in dogs and number two in older cats. Glomerular filtration rate may decrease as a result of decreased renal perfusion, decreased systemic pressure, and altered permeability of the glomerular membrane.7,8 Evaluation of renal function including a BUN and urine specific gravity is an important component of any Senior Care™ program.
Muscle mass loss is a normal finding in the geriatric patient. This change is associated with a combination of inactivity, progressive atrophy of existing muscle cells, a decrease in muscle cell numbers due to fibrosis, reduced oxygen transport to the muscles, and a decreased sensitivity to ATP. Some additional muscle atrophy can also be attributed to decreased dietary protein.
The quality of articular cartilage is also influenced by aging. The cartilage matrix is composed of proteoglycan macromolecules (hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycan [GAG]), type I collagen, and 80% water. In the older patient, the production of GAGs, chondroitin sulfate, and type I collagen is diminished by the decreased numbers of chrondrocytes. Car-tilage homeostasis shifts toward catabolism and the aging cartilage has limited ability to regenerate and main-tain itself in the face of the cumulative effects of ongoing trauma. The tensile strength and shock absorption qualities are diminished resulting in cartilage splitting, cartilage fragmentation, inflammation, synovitis, and microfractures in the subchondral bone.4 Primary idiopathic osteoarthritis is the eventual outcome.
Mild hypothermia is often problematic in the older dog and cat and is usually attributed to less subcutaneous fat and a decreased basal metabolic rate, combined with lack of peripheral vaso constriction. Hypothyroidism can also be a common cause. The old dog and cat become heat seekers. The resulting behaviors may manifest as reclusiveness, periodic trembling, reluctance to go outside for eliminations, and/or sleep cycle disturbances.
Personality and behavioral changes can also be associated with age-related functional changes in the central nervous system. Elderly patients desire more attention, are more jealous, are more irritable, are less mentally alert, dislike change, and have altered sleep cycles. Some have clinical signs related to significant impaired cognitive mental function commonly referred to as senility, dementia, or cognitive dysfunction syndrome (CDS).
The pathogenesis of CDS is a progressive age-related neuronal degenerative disease associated with lipofusion or beta amyloid plaque formation leading to neuronal dysfunction and eventual neuron death. In addition, other neuronal toxins, neuronal cellular infiltrates, cerebral hypoxia associated with arteriocapillary fibrosis, and endothelial proliferation, or the lack of specific neurotransmitters (ACH, GABA, dopamine) can all adversely affect neuronal function resulting in personality changes and abnormal behaviors in older dogs and geriatric cats.6
Failing eye sight and hearing loss are common findings in older dogs. The most common cause of hearing impairments in dogs is acquired neuronal loss associated with degeneration of the cochlea.
Gradual increases or decreases in the overall body condition score are often associated with aging. These changes are often insidious and not easily detected by the owner. Regular weight monitoring combined with body condition scoring allows the veterinarian to better assess minor changes in overall weight status.
According to a study funded by the Morris Animal Foundation for Animals, in the older dog, the four most common causes of disease-related death were 1) cancer, 2) cardiovascular disease, 3) renal failure, and 4) epilepsy and hepatic diseases (equal number of occurrences). In cats, the top four fatal diseases included 1) cancer, 2) renal failure, 3) cardiovascular disease, and 4) diabetes mellitus.9
CLINICAL MANAGEMENT OF SENIOR PETS
From a clinical perspective, how do we transpose this knowledge of aging to our older patients? Progressive practices are using a Senior Care™ program as the vehicle to provide high-quality health care to their older patients. The cornerstones of a Senior Care™ program include client education programs, programs for prevention and early detection of age-related problems, and timely and appropriate medical intervention (Table 5).
One major obstacle in delivering quality health care to the older pet is the lack of knowledge by the owners of the aging process and the early warning symptoms of disease. Many of the age-related diseases have such an insidious onset, most owners do not recognize the problem until it is well advanced. Sadly, at this point in the course of disease, many of the early management alternatives/options may no longer be viable choices.
Unfortunately once observed, some uninformed owners fail to seek veterinary assistance for a particular age-related problem, falsely assuming that their pet is “just getting old” and that nothing can be done. As a consequence, those owners and their pets endure chronic progressive problems that might have been preventable, curable, or at least effectively controlled in the early stages.
A major focus of any geriatric client education program must be emphasizing the awareness of the aging process and the future impact aging will have on the pet’s health care. Empowering our clients to be more active health care partners is a must. Implementing a Senior Care™ program in the clinic provides a way to educate clients on the early warning signs of disease and treatment options.
One of the most significant advances in human geriatric medicine has been the introduction of routine health screening coupled with empowering the patient to be more responsible for their health care. Routine screening improves the early identification of a problem. As a result, the patients are being treated earlier and are living longer. The veterinary profession does a very good job of managing older, chronically ill patients. Instead of reacting to age-related disease, a Senior Care™ program in the clinic is a proactive approach to health care advocating routine age-related physical examinations and a program of diagnostic screening of apparently “healthy” older pets. A program of early detection before disease symptoms are obvious to the owner, before sedation or general anesthesia is administered, before specific medications are prescribed, or before chronic medications are refilled. This early intervention strategy actively probes for problems before they become profound, expensive, or even uncontrollable.
Finally veterinarians must be able to provide timely and appropriate medical options to manage age-related diseases while constantly looking for ways to couple any medical advances and newer technologies to their patients. There is a continual challenge to stay abreast of current knowledge of aging and the pathophysiology of multiple organ dysfunction. Various drug interactions must be throughly investigated when treating animals requiring multiple drug therapy. Anesthesia of the older patient requires special considerations prior to, during, and following a procedure. Newer safer anesthetics and anesthetic monitoring equipment are proven investments in progressive small animal practices. Meeting the specific nutritional demands of aged patients requires continual updating as newer nutritional advances important in modifying aging and in specific disease-managing diets are made available.
SUMMARY
Age is not a disease but rather manifestations of the body’s decreased repair (lack of reserve). Detecting these changes and attempting to modify their impact on our patients is what geriatric medicine is all about.
William D. Fortney, DVM
Department of Clinical Sciences
Kansas State University, Manhattan, Kansas, USA
Aging is a poorly understood and complex biologic process that is progressive and irreversible. However, age-associated pathologic changes and their effect on physiologic processes are manageable and possibly even preventable. The challenge to the practitioner is to differentiate normal aging from age-related disease and to minimize the impact of pathologic changes in our patients. With advancing knowledge of age-related diseases, combined with newer diagnostic testing and additional therapeutics options, veterinarians have numerous opportunities to better meet the challenges presented during the aging process and minimize or delay the impact of aging on our patients. The goal of the health care we provide our elderly patients must be to improve the quality of life, not just the length. With increasing veterinary competition and decreases in vaccine-associated income, addressing the needs of the aging patient can also be a significant profit center.
THE PROCESS OF AGING
Definition of Aging
Numerous definitions of aging exist. Dr. R. T. Goldston defines aging as “a complex biologic process resulting in progressive reduction of an individual’s ability to maintain homeostasis under internal physiologic and external environment stresses, thereby decreasing the individual’s viability and increasing its vulnerability to disease, and eventually causing its death.”4
Aging actually begins at birth. But aging is not a disease, rather the cumulative effects of time upon the physical, mental, and various organ systems. A patient’s age simply defines a point in time in that animal’s life. But that life stage dictates any client education issues, the preventative health care program, and disease risk assessment in that patient.
Signs of Aging
The common age-related changes in dogs and cats include dryness of mucosal tissues, progressive degeneration of organ function (lack of reserve), tissue hypoxia, cellular membrane alterations, decreased enzyme systems, decreased immune surveillance, and personality/behavioral changes (Table 1). These progressive changes are normal, expected, and represent the complex interactions aging has on bodily functions. Aging changes proceed at varying rates in different organ systems of the animal and may vary in degrees of clinical significance between individuals of the same age. In general, aging changes seen in older animals are fairly predictable. For example, the greying of the muzzle and thinning of the hair coat are consistent and early indicators of aging. Identifying various internal organ dysfunctions before they are blatantly obvious is more challenging.
LIFE STAGES
An animal’s life can easily be divided into four stages as follows:
Pediatric
Maintenance
Senior
Geriatric
However, disagreements arise when assigning specific age parameters to each life stage for cats and especially dogs. The various breeds have different rates of aging, with variable risk factors that results in significantly different life expectancies.
The pediatric life stage begins at birth and ends around one year of age. The next life stage is the maintenance period ending at around seven years of age. The senior period represents the life stage of transition between the adult and geriatric. The senior life stage signals the onset of detectable, progressive declines in physical condition, organ function, sensory function, mental function, and immunity.
In establishing age-related criterion for determining the onset of the geriatric period, size was the predominant factor according to a survey of ACVIM (American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine) and ABVP (American Board of Veterinary Practitioners) diplomates by Dr. Goldston. This group defined the beginning age of the geriatric patient3,4 as follows (also see Table 2):
Small breed dogs — 11.5 years
Medium breed dogs —10 years
Large breed dogs — 8.9 years
Giant breed dogs — 7.5 years
Cats — 12 years
The comparative age analogy chart (Table 3) provides a basis for client education of aging and age-related risks that allows the owner to better connect with the pet’s relative age.
The oldest dog on record was a mixed breed that lived to be 29 years old. The oldest cat was 39 years old.5 Although the maximum life span for most dogs is around 27 years, few ever reach age 20. In fact, the average life span of all dog breeds is reported to be only 13 years with large and giant breeds having a shorter life expectancy than small breeds.2 Cats housed indoors have an average lifespan of 14 years versus 3.5 years for cats that are kept outdoors1 Clearly there are a number of factors, most notably genetics, environmental, preventative health care, nutrition, and the human animal bond that can significantly influence aging and ultimate longevity.
CAUSES OF AGING
The underlying causes of why animals age are complex and have not been definitively determined. Recent advances in cellular and molecular biology have contributed significantly to our understanding of the fundamental mechanisms of aging in the domestic dog and cat and have given rise to four prominent subcelluar theories for the aging process (Table 4).
The cumulative cellular damage theory suggests that ionizing irradiation of genetic material (DNA, RNA), plus environmental pollutants and oxygen-derived free radical damage to subcelluar organelles underlies the aging process. This would support the use of antioxidants and/or free radical scavengers in an attempt to slow the aging process. Accumulations of intracellular substances such as lipofusion, glycosylated compounds, and beta amyloid in the central and peripheral nervous system affects the aging process in the waste product theory. The immunologic theory suggests various immunologic events such as antigen/antibody reactions and/or deceases in immune surveillance of infectious agents or neoplasia may also hasten the aging process. The genetic theory says that aging change for each cell is due to an intrinsic pre-programmed genetic code determined at conception. This specific gene acts as a "biologic clock" measuring either time or some repetitive cellular process such as cell division. At the predetermined time an alteration in the cells biochemical pathways results in the cellular dysfunction and eventual death.3
CHANGES DURING AGING
Common to all aging systems is progressive and irreversible change. However, the specific rate of aging change is less predictable and determined by numerous factors including genetics, nutrition, environment, immunity, stress, and disease.2 Knowledge of the common age-related changes and age-related pathologic changes allows the veterinarian to plan and manage more effective health care programs for elderly pets.
In the older dog, the integumentary system undergoes normal aging changes associated with cellular atrophy of the epidermis, dermis, and adnexal structures. Follicular atrophy results in fewer hair shafts; in addition, atrophy of the pigment-producing melanocytes results in greying of the remaining hairs. The hair coat becomes dry, scaly, and dull from decreased quantity and quality (more waxy) of sebum production. The skin thickens and becomes less pliable with age. The nose and footpads become hyperkeratotic and the nails are longer and more brittle.7,8
Dental disease is the most common age-related change in the alimentary system. Dental calculus and tartar accompanied by varying degrees of periodontal disease and tooth loss also increases with age. Fatty infiltration of the salivary glands results in decreased saliva. Appetite may be suppressed from taste bud atrophy and decreased sensation of smell. Esophageal function is decreased by neuronalloss. The esophageal muscle loses tone and may fail to adequately relax at the cardia. The ability to secrete hydrochloric acid by the parietal cells is decreased as is gastric epithelial turnover. Hepatic function may decrease as intracellular fat droplets accumulate in the hepatocytes and the number of hepatocytes decrease. Colonic motility may decrease with age and,combined with drier colonic mucosa, predis-poses the older pet to constipation.7,8
A gradual decline in renal function is a normal part of aging. Because the kidneys have such a reserve capacity,any decline in functional nephrons may be insignificant. However, renal failure is the third leading cause of death in dogs and number two in older cats. Glomerular filtration rate may decrease as a result of decreased renal perfusion, decreased systemic pressure, and altered permeability of the glomerular membrane.7,8 Evaluation of renal function including a BUN and urine specific gravity is an important component of any Senior Care™ program.
Muscle mass loss is a normal finding in the geriatric patient. This change is associated with a combination of inactivity, progressive atrophy of existing muscle cells, a decrease in muscle cell numbers due to fibrosis, reduced oxygen transport to the muscles, and a decreased sensitivity to ATP. Some additional muscle atrophy can also be attributed to decreased dietary protein.
The quality of articular cartilage is also influenced by aging. The cartilage matrix is composed of proteoglycan macromolecules (hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycan [GAG]), type I collagen, and 80% water. In the older patient, the production of GAGs, chondroitin sulfate, and type I collagen is diminished by the decreased numbers of chrondrocytes. Car-tilage homeostasis shifts toward catabolism and the aging cartilage has limited ability to regenerate and main-tain itself in the face of the cumulative effects of ongoing trauma. The tensile strength and shock absorption qualities are diminished resulting in cartilage splitting, cartilage fragmentation, inflammation, synovitis, and microfractures in the subchondral bone.4 Primary idiopathic osteoarthritis is the eventual outcome.
Mild hypothermia is often problematic in the older dog and cat and is usually attributed to less subcutaneous fat and a decreased basal metabolic rate, combined with lack of peripheral vaso constriction. Hypothyroidism can also be a common cause. The old dog and cat become heat seekers. The resulting behaviors may manifest as reclusiveness, periodic trembling, reluctance to go outside for eliminations, and/or sleep cycle disturbances.
Personality and behavioral changes can also be associated with age-related functional changes in the central nervous system. Elderly patients desire more attention, are more jealous, are more irritable, are less mentally alert, dislike change, and have altered sleep cycles. Some have clinical signs related to significant impaired cognitive mental function commonly referred to as senility, dementia, or cognitive dysfunction syndrome (CDS).
The pathogenesis of CDS is a progressive age-related neuronal degenerative disease associated with lipofusion or beta amyloid plaque formation leading to neuronal dysfunction and eventual neuron death. In addition, other neuronal toxins, neuronal cellular infiltrates, cerebral hypoxia associated with arteriocapillary fibrosis, and endothelial proliferation, or the lack of specific neurotransmitters (ACH, GABA, dopamine) can all adversely affect neuronal function resulting in personality changes and abnormal behaviors in older dogs and geriatric cats.6
Failing eye sight and hearing loss are common findings in older dogs. The most common cause of hearing impairments in dogs is acquired neuronal loss associated with degeneration of the cochlea.
Gradual increases or decreases in the overall body condition score are often associated with aging. These changes are often insidious and not easily detected by the owner. Regular weight monitoring combined with body condition scoring allows the veterinarian to better assess minor changes in overall weight status.
According to a study funded by the Morris Animal Foundation for Animals, in the older dog, the four most common causes of disease-related death were 1) cancer, 2) cardiovascular disease, 3) renal failure, and 4) epilepsy and hepatic diseases (equal number of occurrences). In cats, the top four fatal diseases included 1) cancer, 2) renal failure, 3) cardiovascular disease, and 4) diabetes mellitus.9
CLINICAL MANAGEMENT OF SENIOR PETS
From a clinical perspective, how do we transpose this knowledge of aging to our older patients? Progressive practices are using a Senior Care™ program as the vehicle to provide high-quality health care to their older patients. The cornerstones of a Senior Care™ program include client education programs, programs for prevention and early detection of age-related problems, and timely and appropriate medical intervention (Table 5).
One major obstacle in delivering quality health care to the older pet is the lack of knowledge by the owners of the aging process and the early warning symptoms of disease. Many of the age-related diseases have such an insidious onset, most owners do not recognize the problem until it is well advanced. Sadly, at this point in the course of disease, many of the early management alternatives/options may no longer be viable choices.
Unfortunately once observed, some uninformed owners fail to seek veterinary assistance for a particular age-related problem, falsely assuming that their pet is “just getting old” and that nothing can be done. As a consequence, those owners and their pets endure chronic progressive problems that might have been preventable, curable, or at least effectively controlled in the early stages.
A major focus of any geriatric client education program must be emphasizing the awareness of the aging process and the future impact aging will have on the pet’s health care. Empowering our clients to be more active health care partners is a must. Implementing a Senior Care™ program in the clinic provides a way to educate clients on the early warning signs of disease and treatment options.
One of the most significant advances in human geriatric medicine has been the introduction of routine health screening coupled with empowering the patient to be more responsible for their health care. Routine screening improves the early identification of a problem. As a result, the patients are being treated earlier and are living longer. The veterinary profession does a very good job of managing older, chronically ill patients. Instead of reacting to age-related disease, a Senior Care™ program in the clinic is a proactive approach to health care advocating routine age-related physical examinations and a program of diagnostic screening of apparently “healthy” older pets. A program of early detection before disease symptoms are obvious to the owner, before sedation or general anesthesia is administered, before specific medications are prescribed, or before chronic medications are refilled. This early intervention strategy actively probes for problems before they become profound, expensive, or even uncontrollable.
Finally veterinarians must be able to provide timely and appropriate medical options to manage age-related diseases while constantly looking for ways to couple any medical advances and newer technologies to their patients. There is a continual challenge to stay abreast of current knowledge of aging and the pathophysiology of multiple organ dysfunction. Various drug interactions must be throughly investigated when treating animals requiring multiple drug therapy. Anesthesia of the older patient requires special considerations prior to, during, and following a procedure. Newer safer anesthetics and anesthetic monitoring equipment are proven investments in progressive small animal practices. Meeting the specific nutritional demands of aged patients requires continual updating as newer nutritional advances important in modifying aging and in specific disease-managing diets are made available.
SUMMARY
Age is not a disease but rather manifestations of the body’s decreased repair (lack of reserve). Detecting these changes and attempting to modify their impact on our patients is what geriatric medicine is all about.
William D. Fortney, DVM
Department of Clinical Sciences
Kansas State University, Manhattan, Kansas, USA
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