Sunday, October 21, 2007

***Holiday Doggies***

Holidays are my favorite time of year. This section is for your photos of your favorite holiday doggie.



Ballernia Lilly Belle Hutchins
10/10




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Judging by these pictures, I think she decided to be a Doggy Superhero for Halloween. Obviously, her super power is to shoot crazy laser beams out of her eyes when we take pictures of her! So have a fun Halloween!

Justin, Chels, and Lucy 10/07
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Here is Barbie Princess Coco Chanel. If I can't dress my daughter in pink, I can dress my dog in it.
She is was a hit.

Donna 10/07
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Sunday, September 02, 2007

New Puppy? Start Puppy Off Right

For your puppy to grow into a healthy, balanced dog, you must demonstrate leadership from day one.

New puppy owners often make the mistake of endlessly worrying about finding the right puppy treats or bed. They spend little or no time worrying about how or what they will teach their new puppy.

Yes, a puppy needs nutritious food and a safe, warm place to live. But another equally powerful and important biological necessity is the need for a strong pack leader to serve as the dominant source of alpha energy in their lives.

Puppies are naturally hard-wired to follow a pack leader. A pack leader is, by definition, strong, stable and consistent; traits many new puppy owners forget around their dogs. I have had clients who are strong leaders in their jobs, but, when they come home, they turn to mush with their dogs. Then they come to me, puzzled as to why their dog won’t behave.

Puppies sense our confidence levels and will take control if they perceive us as weak. When dogs or puppies take control, bad behaviors, such as excessive barking, leash-pulling, or anxiety, will develop.

The most important thing you can do is to become your puppy’s pack leader. This role doesn’t begin when your dog is six months old or when he’s bad. For your puppy to grow into a healthy, balanced dog, you must demonstrate leadership from day one.

Here are some important points to remember in your role as pack leader:

When getting a new pet, make sure to set aside time every day to provide mental exercise by maintaining rules, boundaries and limitations. When these needs are met, the affection you give to your dog will be channeled as a reward.

Create a schedule that includes a daily 45-minute power-walk in the morning. This is critical for your dog’s health, both physical and mental.

Enlist your whole family in the process of bringing a new dog home. Discuss what their responsibilities will be before the puppy arrives.

Make sure you find a breed that fits your lifestyle. For example, more active breeds, like hunting and herding dogs, require more physical exercise to stay physically and mentally content.

Always walk out the door ahead of your dog when leaving the house. This will show your dog who is in the leadership role.

On walks, make sure that your dog is not in front of you, pulling you down the street. Instead, keep your dog to your side or behind you. This will also demonstrate to your dog that you are the alpha figure.

Give the puppy something to do before you share food, water, toys or affection. This way the dog earns his treat. For example, have your puppy perform the Sit or Down command.

Set aside a budget for unexpected circumstances, like medical bills and training classes. A healthy, well-trained dog makes a wonderful pet.

A puppy will be set up to fail if his new family doesn’t learn these lessons before he arrives. Remember, puppies don’t crave a fancy treat or bed; they need you to become their stable pack leader to demonstrate love in a way they understand.

from Cesar Millan website

Saturday, September 01, 2007

WHAT TO DO ABOUT THOSE MOUTHY PUPS!

Puppies are naturally biting machines. In a way, this is good because they learn to inhibit their jaw strength to exist with us fragile humans. Most mouthing is reflexive behavior. When a pup is touched, or even approached with a hand, the mouth is the natural means of responding. Puppies can be taught to inhibit this reaction. (It will help if you pet the puppy with long, firm strokes rather than quick pats.) Here are some ideas to help with this ouchy problem.


Grab a paw when your pup starts mouthing you. This distracts him from chewing on you-at which point you can praise him for being such a good dog. (Praising for good behavior is just as important as stopping the bad behavior.) Another idea is to holler “Ouch” in a squeaky voice and immediately leave the pup. After a minute, return and reward your pup’s good behavior by playing with him-immediately leaving if he starts biting again.


Teach your pup the “no-bite” or “stop it” commands. When he nips at you, take him by the jowls and lift his head up so you can look him in the eye for several seconds while you repeat the command. Release and ignore him. After a minute call him to you and praise him when he gets to you.


You can accustom your pup or dog to being grabbed and petted (valuable with children in the family) by giving a treat with one hands while gradually moving the other hand closer, giving a treat each time. Then start from the beginning with the other hand. Increase the speed of arm and hand and the squeeze (grab) of the dog. Another way to accustom the pup to hands moving toward his head or body is to scratch him on the chest or throat with one hand as your other hand moves into his visual field. This teaches the pup to inhibit his bite reflex when people and children grab at him.


If you have tried these methods conscientiously for a week or so with no improvement, you can move on to more negative methods. Try a solution of one part vinegar or Listerine to ten parts water in a spray bottle with a stream. When the puppy bites at your heels, you can squirt him in the mouth and scold in a low, growly voice to stop. Another method of negative reinforcement with a hard-mouthed puppy is to cause the puppy to bite himself. Put your hand under his muzzle and squeeze his lips into his teeth until he gives a squeak of pain. Then ignore the puppy for a minute and then call him over and praise him for doing a good recall.


These suggestions are successful with the normal mouthy puppy. A pup who bites with intent to hurt is an aggressive personality and is a different matter. Most pups, however, will try a nip or two and when they find out it’s not acceptable will stop such behavior.

Videos for help
http://www.perfectpaws.com/pupstuff.html

In Loving Memory

This is me with my very first schnauzer, Pepper. Pepper was purchsed from a pet store when i was 9 yrs old. This of course was a time when that was ok. He helped me through my teens years and lived a long life to the age of 14 yrs old. Love you Pepper and I will always thankful that you started my love for this wonderful breed.   Donna Irizarry
xoxooxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxooxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
                                                            In Loving Memory of Beau 10/09 to 8/10




(Beau was out of Isabella and Cooper born 10/09/09, he was in a tragic accident and lost his life by being hit by a car. He is so missed by his parents and kids. Heaven sure did get a great little guy!!)
*~*~**~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
 We have shared so much of ourselves with him and in who he was showed us how much love we had for one another. When any of us were down he was there to look at us with his puppy eyes and somehow the worries and pains we felt were not so bad. I remember when we adopted him that I was worried about how to train a puppy and what kind of food was best for him and all the hundreds of worries that I had, but after holding him in my arms for only a moment, I knew we would be right for one another.When we would be in the living room he would jump into our laps and curl up and it was as if he was meant to be there. My wife still unconsciously moves her legs over onto my side of the bed to leave room for him to curl up at her feet. The kids are thankfully still young enough that the full impact misses them, but they are saddened at times when they see one of his toys or something. When thinking back to memorable events and such, the first that stands out was during the Vacation Bible School this summer. We took Beau up to the local park with us when we took the kids, we were in summer classes at the time and he laid in the shade with me as I read some of my required reading. One of the ladies from the church came over and was petting him and he looked like he wanted to go and see the kids so we let her take him around the park. As she returned a little while later she mentioned how he only wanted to be near us or the kids and that as we walked if it was moving away from any of us he was not as happy to walk along. I found this to be very telling of his feelings for us. Thanks for talking to me and helping me cope.

Brad Sumner





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My best friend closed his eyes last night,
As his head was in my hand.
The Doctors said he was in pain,
And it was hard for him to stand.


The thoughts that scurried through my head,
As I cradled him in my arms.
Were of his younger, puppy years,
And OH...his many charms.


Today, there was no gentle nudge
With an intense "I love you gaze",
Only a heart that's filled with tears
Remembering our joy filled days.


But an Angel just appeared to me,
And he said, "You should cry no more,
GOD also loves our canine friends,
HE's installed a 'doggy-door"! jan cooper '95
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This was our Sassy. We got Sassy when Brandon was 2 yrs old and after Megan was born she began sleeping in her room nightly. Sassy continued to slept with Megan until the morning that we found she had entered through heaven's doggy-door.
Sassy was a prissy little girl. She never weighed over 10 lbs and was always very healthy. She loved her stuffed animals (babies)and our socks.She loved a fresh load of laundry, just to lay hidden in them. I baked her treats with peanut butter in them, they were her favorite. She never barked much or chewed up anything. She was just a perfect angel in our eyes! We still miss our little girl.
The Irizarry's
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Remembering Molly

We lost Molly Mischief on August 8th, 2007.

Since David and I have no children, she was our child.

She was the joy in our lives for 15 years.

She was very aptly named for she was "Molly Mischief" her entire life.

She was all the things that people talk about their pets being. Official home greeter, sympathizer when you were sad, and cheerleader when you were happy. And whether other people want to believe or not, she talked.... sometimes to much. Her greatest frustration in life was the "illiteracy" of her owners. Sometimes you could see on her face... "are ya stupid", and then she would repeat what she said again.

In one of the poems I have included, it talks about "hanging on for one more day"... Molly did that ... for David.

David's birthday is August 7th. You see David will not have happy birthdays anymore. He had a nephew that he helped raise. They were inseparable until David and I married. Josh was one of the best kids you could ever meet. Good manners, good looking, very well liked by everyone he met. Josh died August 9th, 1998 at 16 years of age... 2 days after David's 30th birthday. Now Molly had gone the day after his 39th.

She had been very ill for a couple of weeks and we did not think she was going to survive, but we hoped... oh how we hoped. We both finally gave her permission to "go" if she wanted. We told her we would do everything in our power if she wanted to continue to fight, but on that last morning, she stopped eating and David put her to bed. She went on her own terms, at home, in her own time. We took her to the farm in East Texas for her final rest. She is now among the pines to run and play in the fields and chase squirrels or just sit in the sunshine which was her very favorite pastime...

I’ll always love you baby,

Terri Allen



Below are my favorite remembrances of Molly and some poetry I like.

The Surcease of Sorrow © By Kelly L. Delaney

Do not stand at my grave and weep.
I am not there, I do not sleep.
I am the sparkle in the snow.
I am the shredded leaves that blow.
I am the sunlight on growing grain.
I am the gentle summer rain. Molly.jpg

I am the quiet bird at night.
Circling about; Taking flight.
So do not stand at my grave and weep.
I am not there, I do not sleep.

May I go now?
Do you think the time is right?
May I say good-bye to pain filled days and endless nights?
I've lived my life and done my best, an example tried to be.
So can I take that step beyond and set my spirit free?
I didn't want to go at first, I fought with all my might.
But something seems to draw me now to a warm and living light.

I want to go. I really do.
It's difficult to stay.
But I will try as best I can to live just one more day.
To give you time to care for me and share your love and fears.
I know you're sad and afraid because I see your tears.
I'll not be far I promise that, and hope you'll always know that

My spirit will be close to you, wherever you may go.
Thank you so for loving me.
You know I love you too,
That's why it's hard to say good-bye and end this life with you.
So hold me now, just one more time and let me hear you say,

Because you care so much for me you let me go today.

Our Forever Pet

There's something missing in our home,

We feel it day and night.

We know it will take time and strength,

Before things feel quite right.

But just for now, we need to mourn,

Our hearts-they need to mend,

Though some may say it's "just a pet"

We know we've lost a friend.

You've brought such laughter to our home,


And richness to our days...

A constant friend through joy or loss,

With gentle loving ways.

Companion, pal, and confidante,

A friend we wont forget,

You'll live forever in our hearts,

Our sweet forever pet...

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Cesar’s Insight for Dog Lovers

Dogs are not humans. Before they receive love and affection, they need exercise, clear direction and leadership. Giving them love alone doesn’t create balance in their lives. Be a pack leader!

Rehabilitating a dog is not about “fixing” it. It’s about you, the owner, creating the intention for what you want, not what you’re feeling. Dogs pick up on feelings of fear, doubt or worry – and they will move to fill them by attempting to become dominant.

Practice unwavering leadership every day, especially on your walk. The energy you’re projecting internally is the message you’re sending to your dog.

Dedicate at least 45 minutes of time to the dog’s walk in the morning. Let the dog know you have a consistent pattern that you expect it to follow. Utilize your dog’s energy in a positive manner.

Don’t expect more from your dog(s) than your own children. Dogs need discipline, too. Give them rules, boundaries and limitations as well as love.

Avoid nurturing your dog’s fears or unstable mind. Imagine a successful scenario and hold it in your mind when dealing with your dog.

You are the source of your dog’s energy. You are the role model.

Challenge the dog’s mind – dogs want to know what to do with their lives. Let the dog work for your affection. Once in a calm/submissive state, your love will intensify those qualities in your dog.

Dogs need “on” and “off” time. Engage them fully in structured times together; then they can relax and avoid impatient or destructive behaviors.

Dogs show us how much we can learn – they live in the moment. Try it!

from Cesar Millan website

Friday, April 20, 2007

*~*Did you know?*~*~

This is just for fun...
What we use/do for a litter of 7 puppies (Stars Over Texas)!
This is pups only, not mom.

24 rolls of paper towels
1 large box trash bags
2 small rolls trash bags
5 bags of 40 lb Litter
1 washer of items daily (blankies,bed, washcloths stuffed toys and rugs)
40 lb Adult Food
20 lb Puppy Food
4 wormings per pup
7 shots
7 microchips/registration
Clip 16 toenails x 7 puppies 3 times
3 trips to Vet per pup, Flying pups get one more trip.
Poop from litter box 5 times per day(or more)x 35 days x 7 pups
Wash/Sterilize area daily
Clean water 3 x per day
Feedings 3 x per day
2 bottles of Lemon Pine sol
6 baths each x 7 pups
Small clippings x 7 pups in important areas
5 Full clippings before leaving
2 Around the edges clippings before leaving
AKC paperwork, New puppy packets, collars, blankies, book airlines, purchase crate(Rex)
Millions of kisses! :0)

Sunday, March 04, 2007

*~Temperature*~

A dog's normal temperature ranges between 101¡F and 102.5¡F. A body temperature of 103¡F (or slightly higher) is considered a fever, but is not always a sign of illness. Variations of one or two degrees from the norm can occur as a result of the dog's emotional state, activity or the environment.
Always use a human rectal thermometer, never an oral one, which could break. Shake it down to 96¡F or below and lubricate it with Vaseline or K-Y Jelly. Digital thermometers are preferred because they are easy to read and beep when ready.
It is easier to take a dog's temperature if you have help. If possible, have someone hold the dog's hindquarters so you can hold the tail and the thermometer. Lift the tail gently and slide the lubricated tip in to the anus. You will feel the rectal muscles resist and then finally relax. Talk to your dog calmly and soothingly. After three minutes, remove the thermometer and check the temperature.
If you are alone, grip the dog's lower body under your arm. With the same hand, lift the tail. Use your other hand to insert the thermometer.
A fever over 105¡F may indicate heatstroke. Call your veterinarian or an emergency pet hospital for help. You must give the dog a cold-water bath or shower immediately to lower body temperature. Never place a thermometer in a dog's mouth!

*~Choking*~

What to do if your dog is choking
Additional Information:The American Veterinary Medical FoundationDog Owner's Guide
Signs that your dog is choking include convulsive coughing, choking noises, open mouth, protruding tongue and pawing at the mouth.
You may be able to dislodge a blocking object by application of a modified Heimlich maneuver. Position yourself behind the dog and wrap your arms or hands around the abdomen, beneath the rib cage. Apply a quick and forceful squeeze.
Try this several times. If not successful, thump the dog's chest several times on both sides with cupped hands. An alternative (providing the dog is small) is to hold the dog by the scruff of the neck and the hind legs. Turn the dog upside down and shake vigorously for one minute.
It will not take long for a choking dog to lose consciousness. Once it does, you will have approximately 60 seconds to examine the back of the mouth and throat before the heart stops beating. Extend the head and neck forward, open the mouth and pull out the tongue. Use a flashlight to examine the throat for foreign objects and remove any foreign object that you find (making sure you are not pulling on the internal throat structure).
Do not attempt to retrieve an object by projecting your finger into the dog's throat. This will only lodge the object further down the throat.

*~Drowning*~

What to do if your dog is rescued from drowning
Additional Information:vetmedicine.about.comAmerican Kennel Club

Dogs are excellent swimmers but can drown if they become exhausted or fall through ice. If your dog is drowning in a lake or pool, send for help and then try to reach the dog with your hand. If you must swim to the dog, take a floating device with you. Grab your dog by the tail or back of the neck, or let it grab on to the float. Swim back to shore.
Once you have reached the shore, hold the dog upside down by the hocks. Give a few sharp shakes to drain excess water from the lungs. Lay the dog on its side. Make sure there is no debris in the mouth. If the dog is not breathing, administer artificial respiration. If there is no heartbeat, apply CPR. When the dog is conscious, wrap it in a blanket. If the dog was rescued from ice water, treat it for hypothermia.
(Scroll text for information on CPR and first aid for hypothermia.)
CPR (when heart beat & breathing stops)
The same CPR technique used for humans can be adapted to save the life of a dog. CPR will provide heart contractions and breathing until the dog can perform these functions on its own. Heart and respiratory failure can occur after a trauma such as an electric shock, poison ingestion, a car accident or shock caused by a trauma. (If there is massive external or internal bleeding, CPR will not be effective since there is not enough fluid in the blood vessels to carry oxygen.)
CPR should not be performed on a dog that has a heartbeat. Nor should you perform artificial respiration on a dog that is already breathing unless the breaths are very unsteady and shallow. Watch the dog's sides to see if the chest is rising and falling.
Visual signs of no heartbeat include fully dilated pupils and cool, blue colored gums. Get familiar with pulse points on your healthy dog. Knowing how a normal heartbeat feels will help you in the event of an emergency.
If there is no heartbeat and no breath, CPR must be given to the dog. You will have to manually compress the heart and administer artificial respiration, one immediately after the other. A rhythm must develop between the heart compression and the artificial respiration.
An unconscious dog may become aggressive when it revives. Apply a muzzle -- always. You can use a strip of gauze, a strip of sheet, a necktie or even a sock. Wrap the cloth around the snout and tie under the jaw. Pull the ends back on each side of the dog's neck and tie behind the head. If the dog starts to vomit, remove the muzzle and reapply when he is finished.
Administer CPR as follows:
Lay the dog on its side. If there is no back or neck injury, pull the head and neck forward.
Open the dog's mouth and pull the tongue forward so it does not block the throat. Clear the mouth of any debris with your fingers and close the dog's mouth. Recheck the pulse.
Hold the dog's mouth and lips closed. Apply a muzzle.
Inhale and put your mouth over the dog's nose, forming an airtight seal. Exhale. Repeat the process 10 -15 times per minute.
Remove your mouth and apply heart massage in between breaths.
Place the heel of one hand over the dog's chest (in line with the back of its elbow). Place the heel of your other hand on top of the other.
Pump firmly and briskly. Hold each push for two counts and release for a count of one. (Use pressure appropriate for the size of the dog.)
Continue the massage until the heartbeat returns. Continue artificial respiration until the dog begins to breathe. If the dog does not respond after 15 minutes of CPR, revival is unlikely.
Hypothermia (Cold Injury)
Exposure to cold temperatures, especially if the dog is wet or ill can cause the onset of hypothermia. Symptoms include shivering, lethargy and eventual unconsciousness. The body will feel cold to the touch. Breathing is slow and shallow.
First aid starts with drying the dog and placing it in a warm place. Do not put the dog too close to a fire or heat source. Heating the dog too quickly can cause shock. Be careful not to burn the dog's skin. In the case of newborn puppies or if the dog has collapsed, place in warm bath water. When the puppy or dog is warm, remove it and dry thoroughly. Make sure the water does not become cooler than the dog or it will extract heat from the dog's body. Keep the dog in a draft-free, warm room for several hours. Warm liquids or warm food may be offered.

*~No No Plants/First Aid*~

PLANTS (assorted common household and garden plants)
Additional Information:Protecting your pets from poisonAmerican Veterinary Medical Association
Dieffenbachia, Philodendron & Caladium can cause problems in the dog's upper gastrointestinal tract. Do not induce vomiting. Give milk or water to rinse the dog's mouth and throat. Take the cat to the veterinarian immediately.
Amaryllis, Daffodil, Mistletoe, Tulip, Wisteria, English Ivy, Alfalfa, Beech, Iris, Bird of Paradise, Crown of Thorns, Honeysuckle, Castor Bean, Nightshades & the Potato's green parts and eyes cause irritation in the lower gastrointestinal tract that can lead to death. Induce vomiting (give 1 teaspoon syrup of ipecac or 1 tablespoon of a 1:1 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and water). Follow with a crushed tablet of activated charcoal. (Activated charcoal tablets can be purchased at a drug store and should be kept in your pet's first aid kit.) Take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.
Foxglove, Lily of the Valley, Oleander, Monkshood & Larkspur affect the dog's cardiovascular system. The digitalis glycosides in these plants have a severe depressant effect on the heart. Take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.
Yews, Tobacco, Hemlock, Rhubarb, Belladonna, Jimsonweed, Chinaberry & Morning Glory affect the dog's nervous system. Induce vomiting (give 1 teaspoon syrup of ipecac or 1 tablespoon of a 1:1 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and water). Take the dog to the veterinarian immediately. Specific antidotes may be needed to counteract the effects of the poisonous chemicals found in these plants.
If you discover that your dog has been eating a houseplant or suspicious outdoor plant call your poison control center and get veterinary help. If you don't know the name of the plant, take a sample of it to the veterinarian.
To prevent plant poisoning do not keep poisonous plants in your home or yard. Keep dried arrangements out of reach. Be sure your puppy has plenty of safe chew toys.

Saturday, March 03, 2007

Ten Most Common Pet Poisons

Each year, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center receives tens of thousands of calls involving animal exposures to potentially poisonous substances. In 2005, the Center managed more than 100,000 calls pertaining to a seemingly inexhaustible variety of items. Below is a compilation of the types of calls that the Center assists with, listed in order of the frequency reported:

Human Medications: In 2005, more than 46,000 calls involving common human drugs such as painkillers, cold medications, antidepressants and dietary supplements were managed by the Center. "Ingestions of certain medications could be very harmful or even fatal to pets," cautions Dr. Steven Hansen, Senior Vice-President of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. "Owners should never give their pet any medication without the direction of a veterinarian, as even 1 extra-strength acetaminophen can be deadly to a cat, and just 4 regular-strength ibuprofen can lead to serious kidney problems in a 10-pound dog." Medications should always be stored in a secure cabinet above the counter and out of the reach of pets.

Insecticides: Over 21,000 cases pertaining to products used to kill fleas, ticks and other insects were handled last year. "While there are products for eliminating fleas, ticks and other pesky bugs that are safe for use in households with pets, a key factor in their safe use is reading and following label instructions exactly," advises Dr. Hansen. "Some species of animals can be particularly sensitive to certain types of insecticides, so it is vital to never use any product not specifically formulated for your pet." It is also a good idea to consult with your pet's veterinarian before beginning any flea and tick control program.

Rodenticides: In 2005, approximately 6,900 calls about rat and mouse poisons were received. Depending on the type of rodenticide, ingestions can lead to potentially life-threatening problems including bleeding, seizures, or even damage to the kidneys or other vital organs. "Should pet owners opt to use a rodenticide around their home, they should make sure that the bait is placed only in areas completely inaccessible to their animals," Dr. Hansen instructs.

Veterinary Medications: Close to 6,200 cases involving animal-related preparations such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, heartworm preventives, dewormers, antibiotics, vaccines, and nutritional supplements were managed by the Center last year. "Although these products are formulated for use in pets, it is very important to always read and follow label directions for use exactly," advises Dr. Hansen. "As with flea and tick preparations, many medications are intended for use in certain species only, and potentially serious problems could result if given to the wrong animal or at too high of a dose."

Household Cleaners: In 2005, approximately 5,200 calls pertaining to cleaning agents such as bleaches, detergents and disinfectants were received. "Household cleaners can be quite effective in disinfecting surfaces in the home when used appropriately," says Dr. Hansen, "but gastrointestinal irritation or even severe oral burns could result with some cleaners depending on the circumstances of exposure." Additionally, irritation to the respiratory tract may be possible if a product becomes inhaled. "All household cleaners and other chemicals should be stored in a secure location well out of the reach of pets," Dr. Hansen recommends. When cleaning your pet's food and water bowls, crate or other habitat, a mild soap such as a hand dishwashing detergent along with hot water is a good choice over products containing potentially harsh chemicals.

Herbicicides: Around 4,600 calls pertaining to various types of herbicides came through the Center's lines last year. Most herbicides are considered to be relatively safe when used appropriately. However, directions such as "keep animals away from treated area until dry" need to be adhered to in order to avoid the potential for problems such as damage to desirable vegetation, minor skin irritation or stomach upset if ingested.

Plants: Over 4,400 cases involving plants were handled by the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center in 2005, including such varieties as lilies, azalea, rhododendron, sago palm, kalanchoe and schefflera, among others. "There are many different species of plants that could be harmful to pets if consumed in large enough quantities," cautions Dr. Hansen. "For example, just one or two sago palm nuts can cause vomiting, diarrhea, depression, seizures, and even liver failure, while lilies are highly toxic to cats and even in small amounts can produce life-threatening kidney failure." While poisonous plants should certainly be kept away from pets, it is also a good idea to discourage animals from nibbling on any variety, as even non-toxic plants could produce minor stomach upset if eaten.

Chocolate: More than 2,600 chocolate calls were received by the Center last year. Depending on the type, chocolate can contain large amounts of fat and caffeine-like substances known as methylxanthines. If ingested in significant amounts, chocolate could potentially cause vomiting, diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst and urination, hyperactivity and in severe cases, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures, and could even be fatal. "Typically, the darker the chocolate, the greater the potential for poisoning," says Dr. Hansen. "Baking chocolate contains the highest amount of methylxanthines, and just two ounces could cause serious problems for a 10 pound dog."

Home Improvement Products: In 2005, approximately 1,800 cases involving paint, solvents, expanding glues, and other physical hazards were managed. While the majority of water-based paints are low in toxic potential, stomach upset is still possible, and artist's paints can contain heavy metals that could be poisonous if consumed in a large quantity. Solvents can be very irritating to the gastrointestinal tract, eyes and skin, and could also produce central nervous system depression if ingested, or pneumonia if inhaled. "Prevention is really key to avoiding problems from accidental exposures," says Dr. Hansen. "Pet owners should keep pets out of areas where home improvement projects are occurring, and of course, label directions should always be followed when using any product."

Fertilizers: More than 1,700 calls pertaining to plant fertilizers were handled last year. In general, most fertilizers are fairly low in toxicity. However, the consumption of significant amounts can lead to vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal discomfort. Additionally, some fertilizer formulations may also contain insecticides, which could potentially lead to further problems if eaten.Please visit the AKC website for a useful list of plants. http://http://www.akc.org/news/index.cfm?article_id=2980

Thursday, March 01, 2007

~What is a puppy mill?

Puppy mills (known as puppy farms in the UK and Australia) are dog breeding operations that are considered to be disreputable and sometimes hazardous to the health of the animals due to the conditions of the breeding kennel. The term originated among critics of such operations. Small-scale operations where dogs are not available to health care or good sanitation are usually called backyard breeding; the terms are akin but not synonymous. The largest concentrations in the USA are allegedly in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania and rural Missouri.

Reputable breeders raise their animals in humane conditions, provide good socialization and often formal training, and adhere to the breed standard. They are knowledgeable about major health problems associated with their breed, and with the principles of genetics, frequently undertaking specific matings to produce or refine particular desirable characteristics in their dogs. They are also sensitive to the requirements of their breeding adults — who may also be breed or performance champions — and the puppies they produce. Reputable breeders frequently screen potential customers rigorously, and usually provide a pedigree and health guarantee with their puppies.

Although many responsible breeding operations tend to be small, size alone is not an indication that a particular operation is a puppy mill. Rather, puppy mills are characterized by ignoring duties that are standard among responsible dog breeders. They may keep their dogs in overcrowded, unclean or otherwise inappropriate surroundings. The puppies they produce may be improperly socialized or may suffer from health problems which are often not disclosed to purchasers. Their breeding animals may also suffer, with females sometimes forced to undergo repeated pregnancies too quickly to fully recuperate between them.

Puppy mill operators may misrepresent the breed of dog being sold, and adult puppy mill dogs may exhibit characteristics uncommon to their advertised breed. Unlike the puppies produced by reputable breeders, the vast majority of puppy mill animals are sold to pet stores. Puppy mill operators are frequently accused of being motivated only by profit rather than a commitment to the breed or any empathy for the animals in their care.

Purchasing dogs, especially those claimed to be purebred, from a pet store is strongly discouraged by reputable breeders and animal shelters. While many pet stores claim to purchase dogs from "local breeders" instead of puppy mills, this is often untrue or is a difference in name only, as reputable breeders generally do not sell animals to pet stores. The phrase "local breeder" may also refer to backyard breeders.

Schnauzers Of Taylor is proud to support the Companion Animal Protection Society.
http://www.caps-web.org/

*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
NO PUPPYMILLS
We are very big advocates against puppymills and pet abuse. We donate large amounts yearly to try and put a stop to these operations.Please do not EVER buy a puppy from a petstore and be picky about your breeder just as if you were getting a child.
Here are some links you find helpful:
http://www.pet-abuse.com/pages/cruelty_database/local_search.php
http://stoppuppymills.org/
http://www.prisonersofgreed.org/
http://www.unitedagainstpuppymills.org/

***************************

Sunday, October 22, 2006

~About Schnauzers~

The American Miniature Schnauzer Club offers excellent information on schnauzers. From size to colors and grooming. Please take a look. If you have never had the opportunity to experience a schnauzer, you don't know what you have missed. Not only are they smart, loving and non-shedding but they are just like small people with fur. Until you have talked to them and had that head cock look, you just don't know the love they give and expect so little in return.
http://amsc.us/about.html

Friday, September 01, 2006

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Tuesday, June 13, 2006

Senior Companion Animals

INTRODUCTION

Aging is a poorly understood and complex biologic process that is progressive and irreversible. However, age-associated pathologic changes and their effect on physiologic processes are manageable and possibly even preventable. The challenge to the practitioner is to differentiate normal aging from age-related disease and to minimize the impact of pathologic changes in our patients. With advancing knowledge of age-related diseases, combined with newer diagnostic testing and additional therapeutics options, veterinarians have numerous opportunities to better meet the challenges presented during the aging process and minimize or delay the impact of aging on our patients. The goal of the health care we provide our elderly patients must be to improve the quality of life, not just the length. With increasing veterinary competition and decreases in vaccine-associated income, addressing the needs of the aging patient can also be a significant profit center.

THE PROCESS OF AGING

Definition of Aging

Numerous definitions of aging exist. Dr. R. T. Goldston defines aging as “a complex biologic process resulting in progressive reduction of an individual’s ability to maintain homeostasis under internal physiologic and external environment stresses, thereby decreasing the individual’s viability and increasing its vulnerability to disease, and eventually causing its death.”4

Aging actually begins at birth. But aging is not a disease, rather the cumulative effects of time upon the physical, mental, and various organ systems. A patient’s age simply defines a point in time in that animal’s life. But that life stage dictates any client education issues, the preventative health care program, and disease risk assessment in that patient.

Signs of Aging

The common age-related changes in dogs and cats include dryness of mucosal tissues, progressive degeneration of organ function (lack of reserve), tissue hypoxia, cellular membrane alterations, decreased enzyme systems, decreased immune surveillance, and personality/behavioral changes (Table 1). These progressive changes are normal, expected, and represent the complex interactions aging has on bodily functions. Aging changes proceed at varying rates in different organ systems of the animal and may vary in degrees of clinical significance between individuals of the same age. In general, aging changes seen in older animals are fairly predictable. For example, the greying of the muzzle and thinning of the hair coat are consistent and early indicators of aging. Identifying various internal organ dysfunctions before they are blatantly obvious is more challenging.



LIFE STAGES

An animal’s life can easily be divided into four stages as follows:

Pediatric
Maintenance
Senior
Geriatric
However, disagreements arise when assigning specific age parameters to each life stage for cats and especially dogs. The various breeds have different rates of aging, with variable risk factors that results in significantly different life expectancies.

The pediatric life stage begins at birth and ends around one year of age. The next life stage is the maintenance period ending at around seven years of age. The senior period represents the life stage of transition between the adult and geriatric. The senior life stage signals the onset of detectable, progressive declines in physical condition, organ function, sensory function, mental function, and immunity.

In establishing age-related criterion for determining the onset of the geriatric period, size was the predominant factor according to a survey of ACVIM (American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine) and ABVP (American Board of Veterinary Practitioners) diplomates by Dr. Goldston. This group defined the beginning age of the geriatric patient3,4 as follows (also see Table 2):

Small breed dogs — 11.5 years
Medium breed dogs —10 years
Large breed dogs — 8.9 years
Giant breed dogs — 7.5 years
Cats — 12 years


The comparative age analogy chart (Table 3) provides a basis for client education of aging and age-related risks that allows the owner to better connect with the pet’s relative age.

The oldest dog on record was a mixed breed that lived to be 29 years old. The oldest cat was 39 years old.5 Although the maximum life span for most dogs is around 27 years, few ever reach age 20. In fact, the average life span of all dog breeds is reported to be only 13 years with large and giant breeds having a shorter life expectancy than small breeds.2 Cats housed indoors have an average lifespan of 14 years versus 3.5 years for cats that are kept outdoors1 Clearly there are a number of factors, most notably genetics, environmental, preventative health care, nutrition, and the human animal bond that can significantly influence aging and ultimate longevity.



CAUSES OF AGING

The underlying causes of why animals age are complex and have not been definitively determined. Recent advances in cellular and molecular biology have contributed significantly to our understanding of the fundamental mechanisms of aging in the domestic dog and cat and have given rise to four prominent subcelluar theories for the aging process (Table 4).



The cumulative cellular damage theory suggests that ionizing irradiation of genetic material (DNA, RNA), plus environmental pollutants and oxygen-derived free radical damage to subcelluar organelles underlies the aging process. This would support the use of antioxidants and/or free radical scavengers in an attempt to slow the aging process. Accumulations of intracellular substances such as lipofusion, glycosylated compounds, and beta amyloid in the central and peripheral nervous system affects the aging process in the waste product theory. The immunologic theory suggests various immunologic events such as antigen/antibody reactions and/or deceases in immune surveillance of infectious agents or neoplasia may also hasten the aging process. The genetic theory says that aging change for each cell is due to an intrinsic pre-programmed genetic code determined at conception. This specific gene acts as a "biologic clock" measuring either time or some repetitive cellular process such as cell division. At the predetermined time an alteration in the cells biochemical pathways results in the cellular dysfunction and eventual death.3

CHANGES DURING AGING

Common to all aging systems is progressive and irreversible change. However, the specific rate of aging change is less predictable and determined by numerous factors including genetics, nutrition, environment, immunity, stress, and disease.2 Knowledge of the common age-related changes and age-related pathologic changes allows the veterinarian to plan and manage more effective health care programs for elderly pets.

In the older dog, the integumentary system undergoes normal aging changes associated with cellular atrophy of the epidermis, dermis, and adnexal structures. Follicular atrophy results in fewer hair shafts; in addition, atrophy of the pigment-producing melanocytes results in greying of the remaining hairs. The hair coat becomes dry, scaly, and dull from decreased quantity and quality (more waxy) of sebum production. The skin thickens and becomes less pliable with age. The nose and footpads become hyperkeratotic and the nails are longer and more brittle.7,8

Dental disease is the most common age-related change in the alimentary system. Dental calculus and tartar accompanied by varying degrees of periodontal disease and tooth loss also increases with age. Fatty infiltration of the salivary glands results in decreased saliva. Appetite may be suppressed from taste bud atrophy and decreased sensation of smell. Esophageal function is decreased by neuronalloss. The esophageal muscle loses tone and may fail to adequately relax at the cardia. The ability to secrete hydrochloric acid by the parietal cells is decreased as is gastric epithelial turnover. Hepatic function may decrease as intracellular fat droplets accumulate in the hepatocytes and the number of hepatocytes decrease. Colonic motility may decrease with age and,combined with drier colonic mucosa, predis-poses the older pet to constipation.7,8

A gradual decline in renal function is a normal part of aging. Because the kidneys have such a reserve capacity,any decline in functional nephrons may be insignificant. However, renal failure is the third leading cause of death in dogs and number two in older cats. Glomerular filtration rate may decrease as a result of decreased renal perfusion, decreased systemic pressure, and altered permeability of the glomerular membrane.7,8 Evaluation of renal function including a BUN and urine specific gravity is an important component of any Senior Care™ program.

Muscle mass loss is a normal finding in the geriatric patient. This change is associated with a combination of inactivity, progressive atrophy of existing muscle cells, a decrease in muscle cell numbers due to fibrosis, reduced oxygen transport to the muscles, and a decreased sensitivity to ATP. Some additional muscle atrophy can also be attributed to decreased dietary protein.

The quality of articular cartilage is also influenced by aging. The cartilage matrix is composed of proteoglycan macromolecules (hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycan [GAG]), type I collagen, and 80% water. In the older patient, the production of GAGs, chondroitin sulfate, and type I collagen is diminished by the decreased numbers of chrondrocytes. Car-tilage homeostasis shifts toward catabolism and the aging cartilage has limited ability to regenerate and main-tain itself in the face of the cumulative effects of ongoing trauma. The tensile strength and shock absorption qualities are diminished resulting in cartilage splitting, cartilage fragmentation, inflammation, synovitis, and microfractures in the subchondral bone.4 Primary idiopathic osteoarthritis is the eventual outcome.

Mild hypothermia is often problematic in the older dog and cat and is usually attributed to less subcutaneous fat and a decreased basal metabolic rate, combined with lack of peripheral vaso constriction. Hypothyroidism can also be a common cause. The old dog and cat become heat seekers. The resulting behaviors may manifest as reclusiveness, periodic trembling, reluctance to go outside for eliminations, and/or sleep cycle disturbances.

Personality and behavioral changes can also be associated with age-related functional changes in the central nervous system. Elderly patients desire more attention, are more jealous, are more irritable, are less mentally alert, dislike change, and have altered sleep cycles. Some have clinical signs related to significant impaired cognitive mental function commonly referred to as senility, dementia, or cognitive dysfunction syndrome (CDS).

The pathogenesis of CDS is a progressive age-related neuronal degenerative disease associated with lipofusion or beta amyloid plaque formation leading to neuronal dysfunction and eventual neuron death. In addition, other neuronal toxins, neuronal cellular infiltrates, cerebral hypoxia associated with arteriocapillary fibrosis, and endothelial proliferation, or the lack of specific neurotransmitters (ACH, GABA, dopamine) can all adversely affect neuronal function resulting in personality changes and abnormal behaviors in older dogs and geriatric cats.6

Failing eye sight and hearing loss are common findings in older dogs. The most common cause of hearing impairments in dogs is acquired neuronal loss associated with degeneration of the cochlea.

Gradual increases or decreases in the overall body condition score are often associated with aging. These changes are often insidious and not easily detected by the owner. Regular weight monitoring combined with body condition scoring allows the veterinarian to better assess minor changes in overall weight status.

According to a study funded by the Morris Animal Foundation for Animals, in the older dog, the four most common causes of disease-related death were 1) cancer, 2) cardiovascular disease, 3) renal failure, and 4) epilepsy and hepatic diseases (equal number of occurrences). In cats, the top four fatal diseases included 1) cancer, 2) renal failure, 3) cardiovascular disease, and 4) diabetes mellitus.9

CLINICAL MANAGEMENT OF SENIOR PETS

From a clinical perspective, how do we transpose this knowledge of aging to our older patients? Progressive practices are using a Senior Care™ program as the vehicle to provide high-quality health care to their older patients. The cornerstones of a Senior Care™ program include client education programs, programs for prevention and early detection of age-related problems, and timely and appropriate medical intervention (Table 5).



One major obstacle in delivering quality health care to the older pet is the lack of knowledge by the owners of the aging process and the early warning symptoms of disease. Many of the age-related diseases have such an insidious onset, most owners do not recognize the problem until it is well advanced. Sadly, at this point in the course of disease, many of the early management alternatives/options may no longer be viable choices.

Unfortunately once observed, some uninformed owners fail to seek veterinary assistance for a particular age-related problem, falsely assuming that their pet is “just getting old” and that nothing can be done. As a consequence, those owners and their pets endure chronic progressive problems that might have been preventable, curable, or at least effectively controlled in the early stages.

A major focus of any geriatric client education program must be emphasizing the awareness of the aging process and the future impact aging will have on the pet’s health care. Empowering our clients to be more active health care partners is a must. Implementing a Senior Care™ program in the clinic provides a way to educate clients on the early warning signs of disease and treatment options.

One of the most significant advances in human geriatric medicine has been the introduction of routine health screening coupled with empowering the patient to be more responsible for their health care. Routine screening improves the early identification of a problem. As a result, the patients are being treated earlier and are living longer. The veterinary profession does a very good job of managing older, chronically ill patients. Instead of reacting to age-related disease, a Senior Care™ program in the clinic is a proactive approach to health care advocating routine age-related physical examinations and a program of diagnostic screening of apparently “healthy” older pets. A program of early detection before disease symptoms are obvious to the owner, before sedation or general anesthesia is administered, before specific medications are prescribed, or before chronic medications are refilled. This early intervention strategy actively probes for problems before they become profound, expensive, or even uncontrollable.

Finally veterinarians must be able to provide timely and appropriate medical options to manage age-related diseases while constantly looking for ways to couple any medical advances and newer technologies to their patients. There is a continual challenge to stay abreast of current knowledge of aging and the pathophysiology of multiple organ dysfunction. Various drug interactions must be throughly investigated when treating animals requiring multiple drug therapy. Anesthesia of the older patient requires special considerations prior to, during, and following a procedure. Newer safer anesthetics and anesthetic monitoring equipment are proven investments in progressive small animal practices. Meeting the specific nutritional demands of aged patients requires continual updating as newer nutritional advances important in modifying aging and in specific disease-managing diets are made available.

SUMMARY

Age is not a disease but rather manifestations of the body’s decreased repair (lack of reserve). Detecting these changes and attempting to modify their impact on our patients is what geriatric medicine is all about.

William D. Fortney, DVM
Department of Clinical Sciences
Kansas State University, Manhattan, Kansas, USA

Sunday, March 12, 2006

Artificial Respiration/CPR

If your dog becomes unconscious, respiratory arrest may occur, and usually occurs before cardiac arrest. The heart may continue to beat for several minutes after the breathing stops. Artificial respiration, or rescue breathing, must begin immediately to save your dog's life. If the heart stops, chest compressions must be given right away to keep the blood pumping. Artificial respiration and chest compressions given together are called cardiopulmonary resuscitation, or CPR.

Artificial Respiration

If your dog has gone into respiratory arrest, begin artificial respiration immediately.

Lay your dog on his side on a flat surface.

Be sure your dog has stopped breathing: watch for the rise and fall of the chest, feel for breath on your hand, look at the gums - they will turn blue from lack of oxygen.

Check the airway - it must be clear. Open the mouth and look for a foreign object. If an object is blocking the airway, grab the tongue and pull it outward. If this does not dislodge the object, use your fingers, pliers, or tongs to grasp it. If the object cannot be reached or pulled out, use the Heimlich maneuver.

Once the airway is clear, begin rescue breathing.

With your dog on his side, lift the chin to straighten out his throat.

Use one hand to grasp the muzzle and hold the mouth shut.

Put your mouth completely over the nose and blow gently; the chest should expand. Blow just enough to move his chest (blow harder for large dogs, gently for cats and small dogs).

Wait for the air to leave the lungs before breathing again.

Continue this, giving 20 breaths per minute (one breath every three seconds), until your dog breathes on his own or as long as the heart beats.

Continue to monitor the heartbeat.

CPR

If your dog's heart has stopped beating, CPR must begin immediately. It is best to have two people performing CPR - one continuing artificial respiration while the other does chest compressions. Follow the instructions for artificial respiration, alternating with chest compressions. For two people performing CPR, alternate one breath with three compressions. For one person performing CPR, alternate one breath with five compressions.

For Small Dogs (under 30 pounds)

Lay your dog on her side on a flat surface.

Place the palm of your hand on the rib cage over the heart. Place your other hand on top of the first. (For puppies and kittens, put your thumb on one side of the chest and the rest of your fingers on the other side.)

Compress the chest about one inch. Squeeze and release rhythmically at a rate of 80 to 100 compressions per minute.

For Medium & Large Dogs (over 30 pounds)

Lay your dog on her side on a flat surface.

Place one hand on top of the other over the widest portion of the rib cage, not over the heart.

Keeping your arms straight, push down on the rib cage. Compress the chest ¼ of its width. Squeeze and release rhythmically at a rate of 80 compressions per minute.

Continue CPR until your dog breathes on his own and has a steady heartbeat.

Friday, February 17, 2006

Treats vs Table Scraps

Most of us are guilty of sneaking a tasty table scrap to our pets during or after dinner. While there is not anything inherently wrong with giving your pet an occasional morsel left on your plate, there are some very good reasons to limit your handouts to treats made for dogs. Giving dogs a bit of leftover lean meat, non-buttered vegetables, and a little rice will not cause problems, but unfortunately, many people do not stop there.

Once a moocher, always a moocher.

Once you reward begging behavior with table scraps or something off your plate, you can expect to see the same hopeful eyes looking up at you every meal from that day forward. That is fine if you do not mind, but if you have a dog that whines, the behavior may disrupt your dinner. If you do mind, you will have a hard time training your dog to stay out of the room now that he knows he just might get a handout. Also, some dinner guests do not appreciate a tongue-wagging dog at their elbow while they try to eat their meal.

Table scraps do not offer the nutrition dogs need.

The more you fill your pet up with your food the less likely he is to eat his own. And since our nutritional needs are not the same as our dogs', your dog will get less of the vitamins and minerals he needs and probably more of those he does not need. Quality dog treats are developed with your dog's nutritional needs in mind.

Table scraps are the quickest route to weight problems.

Many times scraps are nothing more than empty calories. And since you probably save that hunk of fat or sweet morsel you know your dog will like, he gets all the wrong food for a trim waistline. Overweight pets, besides not looking their best, have a higher risk of many health problems.

Table scraps are a leading cause of digestive disorders.

The rich foods we eat can wreak havoc on your dog's digestive tract. A simple, consistent diet keeps their system functioning as it should. Throw in your very different foods and spices and do not be surprised if your dog has bad gas, bad breath, loose stools, etc.

You could end up with a finicky eater.

If your dog develops a taste for your food, he may stop eating his own. After all, which would you prefer, dry dog food or juicy steak and hamburger every night?

You may create a thief.


Pets that are used to eating human food are more likely to devour the turkey leftovers you left unattended on the kitchen table. Or bury their heads in the garbage can to get at that fish you 'forgot' to give them. As you know, many bones, chocolate, and other food items can be dangerous to your dog.
Treats are a better choice.

A dog treat gives you and your dog the same satisfaction as giving or receiving a table scrap. It promotes that special bond between you and your dog, it gives your pet a new, delicious taste to savor, and it makes both of you feel good.

Quality dog treats are usually more nutritious and tend to have far fewer calories than most table scraps. Liver products are great treats because they provide nutrients your dog is unlikely to obtain from any other food source.

There are other benefits, too, depending on the type of treat you buy. Biscuit-type treats are good for your dog's teeth as they help scrape off plaque and tartar that can cause dental problems. Rawhide satisfies a dog's urge to chew, relieves boredom, and is also good for teeth.

Treats also do not encourage bad behavior. In fact, it is usually the opposite. Treats can be used during training to reward good behavior, but be careful not to overdo it.

As with anything in life, treats should be used in moderation. Too many treats can add weight and affect your dog's meals. As a rule, treats should never account for more than 10% of your dog's food intake. Your dog's food is his sole source for the nutrition he needs, so do not 'fill' your pet up on treats before meal time. Remember, no chocolate, no bones that splinter easily, and no high-fat, greasy foods.

Foods To Avoid

Which foods could be dangerous for my dog?

A. Some foods which are edible for humans, and even other species of animals, can pose hazards for dogs because of their different metabolism. Some may cause only mild digestive upsets, whereas, others can cause severe illness, and even death. The following common food items should not be fed (intentionally or unintentionally) to dogs. This list is, of course, incomplete because we can not possibly list everything your dog should not eat.

Items to avoid Reasons to avoid
Alcoholic beverages Can cause intoxication, coma, and death.
Baby food Can contain onion powder, which can be toxic to dogs. (Please see onion below.) Can also result in nutritional deficiencies, if fed in large amounts.
Bones from fish, poultry, or other meat sources Can cause obstruction or laceration of the digestive system.
Cat food Generally too high in protein and fats.
Chocolate, coffee, tea, and other caffeine Contain caffeine, theobromine, or theophylline, which can be toxic and affect the heart and nervous systems.
Citrus oil extracts Can cause vomiting.
Fat trimmings Can cause pancreatitis.
Grapes and raisins Contain an unknown toxin, which can damage the kidneys.
Hops Unknown compound causes panting, increased heart rate, elevated temperature, seizures, and death.
Human vitamin supplements containing iron Can damage the lining of the digestive system and be toxic to the other organs including the liver and kidneys.
Large amounts of liver Can cause Vitamin A toxicity, which affects muscles and bones.
Macadamia nuts Contain an unknown toxin, which can affect the digestive and nervous systems and muscle.
Marijuana Can depress the nervous system, cause vomiting, and changes in the heart rate.
Milk and other dairy products Some adult dogs and cats do not have sufficient amounts of the enzyme lactase, which breaks down the lactose in milk. This can result in diarrhea. Lactose-free milk products are available for pets.
Moldy or spoiled food, garbage Can contain multiple toxins causing vomiting and diarrhea and can also affect other organs.
Mushrooms Can contain toxins, which may affect multiple systems in the body, cause shock, and result in death.
Onions and garlic (raw, cooked, or powder) Contain sulfoxides and disulfides, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia. Cats are more susceptible than dogs. Garlic is less toxic than onions.
Persimmons Seeds can cause intestinal obstruction and enteritis.
Pits from peaches and plums Can cause obstruction of the digestive tract.
Potato, rhubarb, and tomato leaves; potato and tomato stems Contain oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems. This is more of a problem in livestock.
Raw eggs Contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may also contain Salmonella.
Raw fish Can result in a thiamine (a B vitamin) deficiency leading to loss of appetite, seizures, and in severe cases, death. More common if raw fish is fed regularly.
Salt If eaten in large quantities it may lead to electrolyte imbalances.
String Can become trapped in the digestive system; called a "string foreign body."
Sugary foods Can lead to obesity, dental problems, and possibly diabetes mellitus.
Table scraps (in large amounts) Table scraps are not nutritionally balanced. They should never be more than 10% of the diet. Fat should be trimmed from meat; bones should not be fed.
Tobacco Contains nicotine, which affects the digestive and nervous systems. Can result in rapid heart beat, collapse, coma, and death.
Yeast dough Can expand and produce gas in the digestive system, causing pain and possible rupture of the stomach or intestines.

Friday, February 10, 2006

A Dog's Purpose - from a 4-year old

A veterinarian had been called to examine a ten-year old Irish
Wolfhound named Belker. The dog's owners, Ron, his wife, Lisa, and their
little boy, Shane, were all very attached to Belker and they were hoping
for
a miracle.

The veterinarian examined Belker and found he was dying of cancer. He
told the family that nothing could be done for Belker, and offered to
perform the euthanasia procedure for the old dog in their home.

While arrangements were being made, Ron and Lisa told the veterinarian
they thought it would be good for the four-year-old Shane to observe
the procedure. They felt as though Shane might learn something from the
experience.

The next day, the veterinarian felt the familiar catch in his throat
as Belker's family surrounded him. Shane seemed so calm, petting the old
dog for the last time, that the veterinarian wondered if he understood what
was going on.

Within a few minutes, Belker slipped peacefully away. The little boy
seemed to accept Belker's transition without any difficulty or confusion.

They sat together for a while after Belker's death, wondering aloud
about the sad fact that animal lives are shorter than human lives. Shane,
who had been listening quietly, piped up, "I know why." Startled, they
all turned to him. What came out of his mouth next stunned everyone.

I've never heard a more comforting explanation. He said, "People are
born so that they can learn how to live a good life -- like loving
everybody all the time and being nice, right?" The four-year-old
continued, "Well, dogs already know how to do that, so they don't have
to stay as long."

Thursday, February 02, 2006

A Basic Dog First Aid Kit

Activated Charcoal (available at drug stores) for absorbing poisons
Adhesive tape to secure bandages
Antibacterial ointment or powder for cleaning wounds
Artificial tears for flushing eyes
Benadryl, for allergic reactions, as directed by the vet (usually childrens benadryl at half a teaspoon)
Blunt-tipped scissors to trim hair from wounds and cut bandaging material
Chlorhexidine for cleaning wounds
Cloths or sanitary napkins to help stem blood flow
Cotton balls
Cotton swabs
Disinfectant solution
Eye dropper, turkey baster, or syringe to flush wounds
Gauze pads and rolls to make bandages and a muzzle
Hydrogen peroxide (3 percent) to induce vomiting as instructed (Do so only on the vets instruction. Do not induce vomiting unless the vet advises you to; in some cases of poisoning, throwing up can make the situation worse.)
Kaopectate (ask your vet what amount is appropriate to control your dog's diarrhea)
K-Y Brand Jelly or petroleum jelly to lubricate the thermometer
Needleless syringe for giving liquid medications
Plaster splint for broken limbs
Rectal thermometer
Towels
Tweezers
Some pet stores will sell already made up first aid kits for your dogs, however, they may not include all of the items listed above. These items are good to have around so you can be ready for just about any situation your dog can get into. Having a well supplied first aid kit around the house for your dog will help to control the situation before it gets out of hand and help the vet out as well.




Sunday, January 15, 2006

Dental Care

Dental care is so important beginning in puppies into adulthood. A huge improvement can be seen in reducing calculus reformation following a dental cleaning by applying ProVSeal™ (KBA, Los Angeles, CA) hydrophobic “dental wax”. The professional wax is applied by a veterinarian to all clean dry tooth surfaces in the anesthetized patient while the wax is very warm to assure thorough coating. (This procedure is similar to a “hot wax” treatment on your car.) ProVSeal™ home care “wax” is applied twice weekly to the outside of all upper teeth with a finger or an applicator.
All home care is more easily accomplished by holding the muzzle closed with one hand and applying the home care product (wax, tooth brush, gel application) with the other. The ProVSeal™ makes other home care much easier.
DIET AND DENTAL DISEASE
One of the most logical ways to promote dental health is food. Everyone is going to feed their dogs. Hard kibble is preferable to soft food or food mixed with water. Calculus accumulation is typically less with dry food. Some foods are formulated to help control plaque and tartar buildup. It is best to select a food that has been shown to reduce tartar buildup.
ANYTHING ELSE?
Good housekeeping practices such as washing food and water bowls in hot soapy water daily, washing long muzzle hair weekly, and keeping the dogs areas clean are essential.

Thursday, December 22, 2005

Contact Us

schnauzersoftaylor@hotmail.com